Trading for Spices

By now of course you know that the Motley Crew is well and truly settled back into river life and the regimen of planning for WJ3’s next season will begin yet again.  In the meantime, here’s a quick look back at a busy 2013 indeed:

WE ATE (very well indeed, especially in Turkey)

WE EXPLORED (there's quite a lot to cover)

WE SAILED (alone & with friends)
Kangaroos in Paradise or was it Purgatory?

 

 

AND WE SAILED (a few thousand nautical miles - Portugal to Turkey)

 

For those wanting a voyage map, follow this LINK (or the one that lives over on the right - Meet The Fleet section), although you will need to have Google Earth downloaded (it's free) on your computer.  Windjammer & her crew wish you all the best for this Festive Season and look forward to your company (virtual or otherwise) next year.

Going Nuts

Inside the Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar dating back to 1453 is an experience that one must undertake to fulfil said duties of Traveller.  So, accompanied by a harried Cap’n, GS led the charge on a shopping foray.  And this time NOT for boat bits… Being something of a bazaar connoisseur, GS found the GB a little overwhelming and touristy.  That’s not to say that it was lacklustre by any means – it positively pulsates, especially when carpet sellers sense a potential customer to bargain with.  We did manage however to find some unusual stalls including one selling oya (needle lace) and a cobbler who made slippers (no Chinese imports here) – just don’t ask where exactly they were. We managed to lose ourselves several times before finding a signpost to the next destination.
 

Temptation everywhere...

Not that the signpost was much help.  Eventually we found our way to the Spice Bazaar (thanks to smartphone technology).  The Spice Bazaar (1660), though much smaller, was filled to the brim with locals shopping for Sacrifice celebrations (more of a week than a day). While GS rummaged to find that perfect pomegranate flavoured Turkish Delight, the Cap’n sampled cashews – from almost every store – before settling on the “freshest”.  Storekeepers don’t seem to encourage taste testing.  Given the crowds streaming through the bazaar looking and not shopping, it could be a one way trip to bankruptcy.  A popular coffee shop, oozing wafts of roasted beans, was clearly not in any danger. 

  

One of those, one of those and oh, one of those..my friend will pay!

Uplifted by coffee, it was back for a final fling to the Cavalry Bazaar.  We had a last minute gift or two (including a rather nice kilim bag) to find before heading off for a romantic dinner for two at the Sarnic Restaurant.  Stepped deep into the bowels of a Byzantine cistern, a dimly lit Sarnic seemed like a stage set from an old B&W Gothic movie.  Whilst Frankenstein was better replaced by attentive serving staff, the atmosphere was incredibly engaging.

 

Inside Sarnic celebrating 

We had time during dinner to reflect on how fortunate we were to be in Istanbul, city of intrigue and infamy; a major trade centre between Asia and Europe with a history as rich and full as any we had visited so far on our Mediterranean adventure.  We too packed silks, gems, ceramics, gold and spices ready to carry them half a world away – only on a big jet rather than a cranky camel.   

 

(Our wonderful hotel staff recommended taking the inexpensive tram and light rail to the airport.  Easy, even with bulging bags!!)

Princes & Paupers

Gate for Visitors is certainly awe-inspiring

Our next foray meant a trip beyond the confines of Sultanahmet.  We set off on the tram, an easy trip across the Golden Horn, to visit the very popular Dolmabache Palace.  It seemed that everyone else had the same idea – the ticket office queue was long & the guided tour waiting list endless.  At least we made it in before the daily admittance limit had been reached.  First stop was the Selamlik or ceremonial rooms.  Our English-speaking guide was professional but fast – there would be no lingering on this tour.  We were also not allowed to take photos inside, so it was good to see security staff on the ball, picking up mobile phone camera cheats.

Imperial Gate & queue for Selamlik

 

Dolmabache Palace, built in 1843-56, is opulent, lavish, sumptuous and over-decorated.  The message to Europe at the time was most certainly clear – an Empire in need of a health check this could not be.  Smoke and mirrors!   Still, that did not stop them from spending grandly.  From the ornate clock tower gate, swan fountain, 4000kg chandeliers, crystal staircases and swathes of silk and carpets, this was a grand design indeed.  The Paris Opera interior designers were contracted no less!


The Gardens & Swan Fountain

 

The Harem was more in keeping with its status as family rooms.  We discovered that items owned by men belonged to the state whereas a woman’s items were considered personal property.  Perhaps this accounts for a less-showy Harem, although I’d be happy with one or two of the paintings, a Chinese vase or a dinner set. The rooms occupied by Ataturk before his death in 1938 were more humble. His message and legacy to the country and its people is clear.

Exterior of St Saviour Church, Chora

 

Then it was off to the country by taxi to visit the highly recommended St Saviour Church in Chora.  Parts of this 11th c Byzantine building date pre-413 AD and in its own way makes you realise what an achievement (in architectural terms) the Hagia Sophia was in its day.  However it was the frescoes and mosaics (1315-21) we came to see. Here you are up close and personal with some amazing Middle Age religious artworks, popular subjects at the time.  These special gems include the Genealogy of Christ, Life of the Virgin, Infancy of Christ and Christ’s ministry.   It is easy to understand the power and immediacy of the mosaics in a time when few could read or write.  The stories unfold effortlessly. 
 

Anastasis Fresco

Christ Pantocrator (Genealogy)



Within These Walls

We were proudly informed that Istanbul’s city walls have been breached only twice in 1600 years. Firstly by the Crusaders in 1204 (4th Crusade), who were apparently a thieving lot with pillage and looting on their minds. The second was led by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453 when he arrived with cannon and troops to take over the failing Byzantine Empire.  Constantinople, already a city of some wealth and splendour, was then renamed Istanbul. So began the mysteries and intrigues of the Ottoman Sultanate.

Sultan's Seal

 

Where better place to find the true essence of this intriguing Empire than Topkapi Palace, residence of the Sultans for over 400 years?  The palace was designed as a 4 courtyard plan essentially to keep the Sultan and his family in private, but it all added to the mystery and maintained a life regimented by tradition and ceremony.

Imperial Gate with Blue Mosque beyond

 

First Gate: Imperial Gate  and Court of Processions (or Regiments); open to all

 

Second Gate: Gate of Salutations and Council Chamber; open to those on imperial business; houses the vast kitchens (which were sadly closed at the time of our visit)

Inside the Harem

 

Gate of Felicity

 

Third Gate: Gate of Felicity and start of Sultan’s private domain; contains an audience chamber, a library, the Imperial Treasury (brimful of expensive goodies), mysterious Harem (brimful of romance) and Privy Chamber (brimful of important religious relics).

 

Fourth Gate: The Gardens and family quarters; Baghdad Kiosk, Circumcision Room, Balcony of Life and various garden rooms with wonderful views over the Golden Horn, Istanbul’s historic harbour.

Ceiling, Baghdad Kiosk

 

Pavilion Fountain

 

After the Palace, where to next?  As they say, Cavalry to the rescue.  The Cavalry Bazaar, also called the Arasta, housed in the old Palace Stables (near the Blue Mosque) had a nice selection of stalls, was less frenetic than the Grand Bazaar and well-positioned ie much closer to our hotel to carry home booty.  (You see – always thinking!) 

Grand Palace Mosaic detail - amazing craftsmanship

 

While we were in the vicinity, we visited the small but delightful Mosaics Museum.  The mosaics were only fairly recently revealed and once formed part of the old Byzantine Great Palace complex (324 AD).  The Palace is said to have had hundreds of rooms and many sumptuous gold mosaics.  Themes represented on this vast (& thankfully surviving) mosaic include rustic, landscape, mythology, hunting and more. 
 

The Blue Mosque

 

Finally it was time to brave the crowds and line up to see the Blue Mosque. This is another spectacular building thanks to the perseverance of Sultan Ahmet 1. Constructed during a time (1609) when the Empire was in decline, funds short and its architectural design strongly criticised, the mosque is strikingly beautiful, inside and out. The interior is covered in blue Iznik ceramic tiles, hence the unofficial title of Blue Mosque, although the outside too has strong slate-blue overtones.

Inside the Blue Mosque

On Shanks Ponies

 

Inside Hagia Sophia

 
First stop on our itinerary was Hagia Sophia (meaning divine wisdom) where we chose to enlist the services of guide, Omer, to explain the hidden secrets of this fascinating Byzantine period building.  Emperor Justinian inaugurated the Church in 537 in an attempt to restore the greatness of the Roman Empire. Its central dome was at the time a technological wonder, allowing vast uninterrupted and richly decorated space for worshipers. Many an orange has been sliced and diced in art class to help understand the architectural significance of this domed construction. 
 

Central dome from far below

Giddy from Byzantine mosaic angels swirling above our heads, we made our way to the more sedate but no less awe-inspiring Archaeological Museum, which houses Turkey’s premier collection of antiquities. The main building was undergoing some renovation too, however enough of the collection was on show to keep us amused for many hours. 

 

We started with the Museum of the Ancient Orient where Nebuchadnezzar’s Gates of Babylon (604-562 BC) and the clay Treaty of Kadesh between the Hittites and Egyptians agreed in 1269 BC are kept.  You just have to keep pinching yourself to know you’re not dreaming.

Gates of Nebuchadnezzar

Next we visited the Tiled Kiosk of Mehmet the Conqueror (1472) a visual feast of tiles and ceramic works.  This building was once an imperial residence and we began to understand why Istanbul was famous for the opulent lifestyle of the Ottoman Sultanate.  The camera was snapping hot!

Tiled Kiosk

Tea was not served for us in these

 

After a brief break at the outdoor café, surrounded by a scattering of real ruins and real kittens, we took a deep breath and made for the front doors of the main building.  Inside a selection of classical and pre-classical artefacts – to die for… is on display.  Alexander Sarcophagus (named because it depicts Alexander the Great’s victory over the Persians), finds from the 9 different cities of Troy (could Troy VIIa be Homer’s Troy?), Greek & Roman statues, pre-historic discoveries and much, much more. Exhausted? Yes, and it’s only day 2….

Alexander Sarcophagus

A Grand Tourist

During those heady days of the Grand Tour, Italy and Greece lured travellers with their offerings of classical antiquity. The nearby Ottoman Empire however breathed mystery, intrigue and opulence - a life beyond ordinary. Today, the goings-on in the Topkapi Palace seem tame by comparison, but the city of Istanbul remains a tourist magnet.  We knew this, noting at least 4 cruise ships dockside in the Beyoglu quarter.  Still, we too were drawn like moths.

Exotic Asia beyond the Maiden's Tower

 

Consulting our many travel guides (we'd hate to miss a thing!), we headed out early (pre-crowd) to buy our 72 hour museum pass.  Although we had no hope of visiting every site included on the pass (for 75TL), avoiding long ticket queues would save lots of time, essential even if you do have a week to play.  The other key ingredient in our plan was a central hotel.  The Ambassador was just that, with Hagia Sophia and surrounds only a 5 minute walk away and a tram on our doorstep (well, almost). 

View from our breakfast balcony

 

We scheduled our visits with only a few sites each day so as not to rush and planned to avoid any closed days.  Luckily we found out early that Sacrifice Day celebrations were coming up so we were able to work around that too.  From our earlier walking tour (with the tour group) we could prioritise what we wanted to see and knew that both the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts (former #1 priority) and the Archaeological Park were closed for significant renovations.

Glittering Gold Mosaics (Hagia Sophia)

GS had also done a little research into textile hotspots, so that information was added to a burgeoning “To Do” list.  A little shopping and a few decent restaurants (for dinner stops) were added in – just to mix it up.  We can’t be too hard core rock hounds…

The tile work was pretty amazing too!

Istanbul for Beginners

To round off our Turkey Tour experience, we planned to explore Istanbul on our own.  A week, we thought, should cover most things… 

Clearly we weren't the only ones in town this week...
ferries, trains & cruise ships galore

So with suitcases bumping noisily over cobbled pavements, off we marched to negotiate Sultanahmet’s labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes.  We lucked in and easily found the wonderful Ambassador Hotel, our base for the week.  The Cap’n is now master and commander of his smartphone – or at least the street maps & GPS component of it.

 



Contrast

Given our sleep deprivation (from the overnight bus trip), we decided that a relaxing Bosporus Cruise was in order for the afternoon.  It is quite a good way to get your bearings, both geographically and historically as the narrow Bosphorus, separating Europe from Asia, is lined with palaces, fortresses, mosques and homes of the well-to-do from all eras.  No wonder conquering commanders coveted its strategic location and Mark Twain (in 1867) waxed lyrical about Constantinople’s impressive skyline. 

Excuse me madam, you're sitting in my seat...
(well ok, only if you share that nice fish sandwich)

We made a mental note to visit the opulent Dolmabahce Palace, admired the Fortresses of Europe and Asia at the narrowest point on the Bosphorus, lusted after the quaint, waterside yali (mansions) of Yenikoy and had a fresh fish sandwich at Anadolu Kavagi, a small fishing village and our only stop. From here we were able to peer out to the Black Sea and wonder if we would ever have time to visit on WJ3.

Sultan's Summer House (always painted red)

(Sailing the Bosphorus is not for the faint-hearted.  This narrow waterway, a funnel connecting the Black Sea with the Mediterranean, is strewn with big ships, ferries and tourist boats.  Add to this mix challenging currents, choppy waters and few suitable anchorages, this is not the place to be outside daylight hours.)

 

A Little Pre-Planning

Part of our earlier tour had included a half-day walking tour of Istanbul (day two).  This walking tour, set at brisk pace, orientated us to the most important of Istanbul’s famous places to visit.  We walked by ticketed venues and stopped at free ones, making a round trip of the inner city in the process.  Generally, our itinerary included: with numbers as referenced on the map :(

Put your glasses on to see this....

13. Archaeological Museum via Gulhane Park

14. Topkapi Palace (First Courtyard only) and Imperial Gate

7.  Hagia Sophia

8.  Blue Mosque (Beware of carpet salesmen offering to help jump a huge queue into the Mosque for an obligation-free viewing of their carpets.  Sure!) 

46. A stroll along the Hippodrome (stadium) taking a close look at the Egyptian Obelisk (1500 BC), Serpentine Column (479 BC) and the mysterious Brazen Column.

Blue Mosque From Sultan Ahmet Square

3.  Cemberlitas (Constantine’s Column 330 AD)

18. The opulent 18^th Cagaloglu Baths (old Ottoman hamam)

21. Grand Bazaar (no shopping allowed due to time constraints – drat!)

23. Istanbul University

24. Suleymaniye Mosque & Tomb of Sinan the Imperial Architect

27. Finally, the Spice Bazaar to taste lokum or Turkish Delight…the pomegranate & pistachio was especially good!

Basilica Cistern

Medusa Head column base

 

After parting ways with the group for some time on our own, we settled upon viewing a small art gallery 15. near to the Hippodrome (etchings & weavings) and the dark and brooding Basilica Cistern 1. (532 AD), with its huge marble Medusa heads, giant-sized koi and one weeping column in a forest of 336. Then it was time for a beer and footbath – a perfect remedy!

(Just a bit slow getting all the posts up this year, sigh!  A few more of Istanbul yet to come but I'm sure you can handle that.)