Within These Walls

Istanbul, Turkey: Day 4

We were proudly informed that Istanbul’s city walls have been breached only twice in 1600 years. Firstly by the Crusaders in 1204 (4th Crusade), who were apparently a thieving lot with pillage and looting on their minds. The second was led by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453 when he arrived with cannon and troops to take over the failing Byzantine Empire.  Constantinople, already a city of some wealth and splendour, was then renamed Istanbul. So began the mysteries and intrigues of the Ottoman Sultanate.

Sultan's Seal

Where better place to find the true essence of this intriguing Empire than Topkapi Palace, residence of Sultans for over 400 years?  The palace was designed as a 4 courtyard plan, essentially to keep the Sultan and his family in private, but it all added to the mystery and maintained a life regimented by tradition and ceremony.

Imperial Gate with Blue Mosque beyond

First Gate: Imperial Gate  and Court of Processions (or Regiments); open to all

Second Gate: Gate of Salutations and Council Chamber; open to those on imperial business; houses the vast kitchens (which were sadly closed at the time of our visit)

Inside the Harem

Gate of Felicity

Third Gate: Gate of Felicity and start of Sultan’s private domain; contains an audience chamber, a library, the Imperial Treasury (brimful of expensive goodies), mysterious Harem (brimful of romance) and Privy Chamber (brimful of important religious relics).

Fourth Gate: The Gardens and family quarters; Baghdad Kiosk, Circumcision Room, Balcony of Life and various garden rooms with wonderful views over the Golden Horn, Istanbul’s historic harbour.

Ceiling, Baghdad Kiosk

Pavilion Fountain

After the Palace, where to next?  As they say, Cavalry to the rescue.  The Cavalry Bazaar, also called the Arasta, housed in the old Palace Stables (near the Blue Mosque) had a nice selection of stalls, was less frenetic than the Grand Bazaar and well-positioned ie much closer to our hotel to carry home booty.  (You see – always thinking!) 

Grand Palace Mosaic detail - amazing craftsmanship

Whilst we were in the vicinity, we visited the small but delightful Mosaics Museum.  The mosaics were only fairly recently revealed and once formed part of the old Byzantine Great Palace complex (324 AD).  The Palace is said to have had hundreds of rooms and many sumptuous gold mosaics.  Themes represented on this vast (& thankfully surviving) mosaic include rustic, landscape, mythology, hunting and more. 

The Blue Mosque

Finally it was time to brave the crowds and line up to see the Blue Mosque. This is another spectacular building thanks to the perseverance of Sultan Ahmet 1st. Constructed during a time (1609) when the Empire was in decline, funds short and its architectural design strongly criticised, the mosque is strikingly beautiful, inside and out. The interior is covered in blue Iznik ceramic tiles, hence the unofficial title of Blue Mosque, although the outside too has strong slate-blue overtones.

Inside the Blue Mosque