Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Istanbul for Beginners

Istanbul, Turkey: Day 1

To round off our Turkey Tour experience, we planned to explore Istanbul on our own.  A week, we thought, should cover most things… 

Clearly we weren't the only ones in town this week...
ferries, trains & cruise ships galore
So with suitcases bumping noisily over cobbled pavements, off we marched to negotiate Sultanahmet’s labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes.  We lucked in and easily found the wonderful Ambassador Hotel, our base for the week.  The Cap’n is now master and commander of his smartphone – or at least the street maps & GPS component of it. 
Contrast
Given our sleep deprivation (from the overnight bus trip), we decided that a relaxing Bosporus Cruise was in order for the afternoon.  It is quite a good way to get your bearings, both geographically and historically as the narrow Bosphorus, separating Europe from Asia, is lined with palaces, fortresses, mosques and homes of the well-to-do from all eras.  No wonder conquering commanders coveted its strategic location and Mark Twain (in 1867) waxed lyrical about Constantinople’s impressive skyline. 
Excuse me madam, you're sitting in my seat...
(well ok, only if you share that nice fish sandwich)
We made a mental note to visit the opulent Dolmabahce Palace, admired the Fortresses of Europe and Asia at the narrowest point on the Bosphorus, lusted after the quaint, waterside yali (mansions) of Yenikoy and had a fresh fish sandwich at Anadolu Kavagi, a small fishing village and our only stop. From here we were able to peer out to the Black Sea and wonder if we would ever have time to visit on WJ3.
Sultan's Summer House (always painted red)
Sailing the Bosphorus is not for the faint-hearted, we decided, happy to let others captain our ferry.  This narrow waterway, a funnel connecting the Black Sea with the Mediterranean, is strewn with big ships, ferries and tourist boats.  Add to this mix challenging currents, choppy waters and few suitable anchorages, this is not the place to be outside daylight hours - unless you're really brave...

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