Fast & Furious to Istanbul

Istanbul, Turkey

Our chariot (taxi) driver rather liked history

Well, here we are.  Istanbul - back where we started all those months ago!  Now, if I said it was raining, would you believe me?  The overnight bus from Plovdiv and associated stops at border points meant we had little sleep.  Jumping a taxi at the huge downtown bus terminal in the bleak early hours meant a fast ride into the city centre.  Zooming along at 130kph (“Put your seatbelts on”, yelled George as we left.), this ride was better than caffeine.  Still, unlike last time, we actually made it to the front door of our hotel.  No time to spare though….quick, I need a bathroom!

We had organised a few days to recover in Istanbul and used the time to re-visit (perhaps for the last time) our favourite city.  Well, actually they’re all our favourites but there’s just something about Istanbul.  Even Mark Twain would agree! 

Cavalry Bazaar - clearly one of us doesn't like shopping...

Old timber cottages behind the Blue Mosque

So, it's goodbye to Hagia Sophia then

Of course, Wednesday was Republic Day, so as if in a dream, we walked around town from the Cavalry Bazar to the Spice Bazar amongst a huge crowd enjoying their public holiday.  The next day we took shelter from heavier rain in the Grand Bazaar until overwhelmed, then took to the quieter corridors of the Archaeological Museum.  With wet shoes and a certain lack of enthusiasm, we then spent a day at the hotel enjoying a late breakfast and a bit of doing nothing much.  We discovered though, that the Museum of Turkish Arts is well on the way with its renovation plans and finding an Economist magazine in English is a bit of a challenge. 

Finally it was time to catch the tram to Atatürk Airport and check out of Turkey.  No more muezzins’ calls, no more carpets and no more cats’ meows. 

 

So ends our seventh season, which started with a visit to Troy & Gallipoli, then continued on in leisurely boating style:

• a memorable cruise up Turkey's west coast,
• a quick sail through the Greek Aegean Islands,
• taking a red panda to explore ruin-strewn Peloponnese, 
• a lingering sail round the Ionians before
• dashing to Albania to explore this little visited (by sail boats) country. 

Pre-haul out in Preveza Marina - washing sails

Finally, it was back to Preveza for haul out.  Windjammer has settled into a yard shared with donkeys, goats and friendly dogs.  She won't be missing us at all.  With WJ3 safely in her cradle, we took off to visit George & Annette in Vienna before taking our Intrepid trip to Eastern Europe. 

 

We'll be back next year for some more slow boating, the general plan to make it to Italy. More or less. Watch this space for plans as they evolve...

Slow boating

 (A reminder of our happy watery trails (the map & tracker) can be found here.)

So it's goodbye & A Very Merry Christmas 2014 from us

A Forest of Bunny Ears

Istanbul, then on to Marmaris, Turkey

Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain 1901 only recently restored

Back to cosmopolitan Istanbul with just enough time to visit the remnants of this once Byzantine city, eastern capital of the Roman Empire and capital of the Christian world for over a thousand years.  We started with Hagia Sophia (again, GS is besotted), strolled around the Hippodrome taking in the recently restored Kaiser Wilhelm’s fountain (1901), noted that the Palace of Ibrahim Pasa (housing the Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum) was still under renovation and then took a Big Bus Tour round town to see what we’d missed. 

Afternoon crowds gather to see Hagia Sophia

After our short Istanbul stop-over we jetted back to Marmaris to the lovely Windjammer.  Of course, she’d been moved in our absence and the key was missing; not the best thing late at night!  But it all worked out in the end, and here we are at Yat Marine even closer to the field of BIG hot water boats sprouting a growing collection of bunny ears (those SAT & TV domes that look like Mickey Mouse caps). 

Inside Hagia Sophia at the balcony where the Empress
would observe formalities

We’re working at setting WJ3 up slowly, partly due to a dose of the flu (yes, both of us!) and having a little bit of work done professionally to tart her up for the coming season.  Our splash is scheduled for the 2^nd June and only yesterday it was blowing 37km per hour over Paros (in the Cyclades, mid Aegean Sea).  Yep, another bumpy ride coming up; we wondered if sitting on the hard all season in Marmaris wouldn't be so bad after all…

The Cap'n pretends he's not being watched...
Breakfast at the Ambassador Hotel in Istanbul

(For anyone interested, the WJ3 Map & Tracker is updated now and will be more current than the blog for our whereabouts.  And photos to come - we're back to internet access basics again!)

On the Road Again...

Fabled Troy, Turkey

Having spent some 24 hours travelling to Istanbul, what better thing to do than hop on a bus for a 6 hour ride to Eceabat (in Europe), then follow it with a short ferry ride across the Dardanelles.  We were following in the footsteps of ancient greats (King Xerxes in 481 BC, Alexander the Great, Byzantine Generals, Ottoman Sultans and of course more recently, modern waring nations); this was the place to stake your strategic claim.  Stunning Byzantine citadels on either side of this waterway attest to this.

Byzantine Fortress straddling the Dardanelles
(perhaps inspired architect Le Corbusier)

Having pondered the strategic value of controlling the Dardanelles, we continued on our journey to the site of Troy (in Asia). High on a dusty hill, this seeming pile of rocks and bits of marble tells a story that stretches some (five) thousands of years to the Bronze Ages. 

People (tourists?) had complained that there was nothing
much to see at Troy, hence this imaginative reproduction

Troy itself has had at least 9 iterations and to make sense of it all you need a guide who borders on being a Troy tragic.  Luckily for us, we did!  Burak led us on a merry dance through the various ages, all the while making jabs at Australians.  He is, you understand, in the process of mastering the art of Aussie slang; dare I say it but Turks & Aussies share the same wit.  This did not hinder the story of Troy; the myth & legend fused with truths unearthed over the years. 

Famous for finding treasure at Troy, Schliemann (in 1871), cut a swathe through various centuries to unearth this wealth.  His amateur methods were overlooked, perhaps due to his access to funds, but the fame was certainly all his.  Later during WWII his treasure disappeared to surface in a Russian Museum.  Perhaps they borrowed a previously-loved wooden horse to move the loot?

It's OK. They only sacrifice virgins here, darl!

Schliemann was looking for Homeric Troy (Troy VI), and the legendary treasure of King Priam.  It is now thought that he found treasures from Troy II. 

Now I won’t go on but suffice to say that legend and truth are mixed in fair portions and there is quite likely some truth in the existence of our hero, Ulysses.  In Homer’s “Iliad”, Troy was called Ilium and it was at this very spot that the ten year Trojan War took place. 

We know that because a giant wooden horse guards the entrance to these digs.  If that won’t fit in your handbag, souvenir sellers have a vast variety of others to choose from.  

Perhaps the best information we found about the site, with a modest selection of artefacts from all Troys (part of Frank Calvert’s collection; the actual site discoverer) was at the Istanbul Archaeological Museum.  There is still much work to do to reveal more secrets of Troy, and our lucky guide has signed up to help with a future dig.  We’ll take the easy option though and just settle back to see Eric Bana & Brad Pitt sort it all out, yet again.

This pile of rocks is thought to have once looked like the drawing below.
Just use your imagination!

Going Nuts

Inside the Grand Bazaar

Istanbul, Turkey: Day 6

The Grand Bazaar dating back to 1453 is an experience that one must undertake to fulfil said duties of Traveller.  So, accompanied by a harried Cap’n, GS led the charge on a shopping foray.  And this time NOT for boat bits… Being something of a bazaar connoisseur, GS found the GB a little overwhelming and touristy.  That’s not to say that it was lacklustre by any means – it positively pulsates, especially when carpet sellers sense a potential customer to bargain with.  We did manage however to find some unusual stalls including one selling oya (needle lace) and a cobbler who made slippers (no Chinese imports here). Just don’t ask where exactly you are. We managed to lose ourselves several times, before finding a signpost to the next destination.

Temptation everywhere...

Not that the signpost was much help.  Eventually we found our way to the Spice Bazaar (thanks to smartphone technology).  The Spice Bazaar (1660), though much smaller, was filled to the brim with locals shopping for Sacrifice celebrations (more of a week than a day). While GS rummaged to find that perfect pomegranate flavoured Turkish Delight, the Cap’n sampled cashews – from almost every store – before settling on the “freshest”.  Storekeepers don’t seem to encourage taste testing.  Given the crowds streaming through the bazaar looking and not shopping, it could be a one way trip to bankruptcy.  A popular coffee shop, oozing wafts of roasted beans, was clearly not in any danger. 

One of those, one of those and oh, one of those..my friend will pay!

Uplifted by coffee, it was back for a final fling to the Cavalry Bazaar.  We had a last minute gift or two (including a rather nice kilim bag) to find before heading off for a romantic dinner for two at the Sarnic Restaurant.  Stepped deep into the bowels of a Byzantine cistern, a dimly lit Sarnic seemed like a stage set from an old B&W Gothic movie.  Whilst Frankenstein was better replaced by attentive serving staff, the atmosphere was incredibly engaging. 

Inside Sarnic celebrating.  

It was at this point, the camera breathed it's last!  So there's only some fuzzy photos, if any from our exploits from now on.  What amazing timing.  Of course we had no backups.

We had time during dinner to reflect on how fortunate we were to be in Istanbul, city of intrigue and infamy; a major trade centre between Asia and Europe with a history as rich and full as any we had visited so far on our Mediterranean adventure.  We too packed silks, gems, ceramics, gold and spices ready to carry them half a world away – only on a big jet rather than a cranky camel.   

(Our wonderful Ambassador Hotel staff recommended taking the inexpensive tram and light rail to the airport.  Easy, even with bulging bags!!)

Princes & Paupers

Gate for Visitors to the Palace is certainly awe-inspiring

Istanbul, Turkey: Day 5

Our next foray meant a trip beyond the confines of Sultanahmet.  We set off on the tram, an easy trip across the Golden Horn, to visit the very popular Dolmabache Palace.  It seemed that everyone else had the same idea – the ticket office queue was long & the guided tour waiting list endless.  At least we made it in before the daily admittance limit had been reached.  First stop was the Selamlik or ceremonial rooms.  Our English-speaking guide was professional but fast – there would be no lingering on this tour.  We were also not allowed to take photos inside, so it was good to see security staff on the ball, picking up mobile phone camera cheats.

Imperial Gate & queue for Selamlik

Dolmabache Palace, built in 1843-56, is opulent, lavish, sumptuous and over-decorated.  The message to Europe at the time was most certainly clear – an Empire in need of a health check this could not be.  Smoke and mirrors!   Still, that did not stop them from spending grandly.  From the ornate clock tower gate, swan fountain, 4000kg chandeliers, crystal staircases and swathes of silk and carpets, this was a grand design indeed.  The Paris Opera interior designers were contracted no less!

The Gardens & Swan Fountain

The Harem was more in keeping with its status as family rooms.  We discovered that items owned by men belonged to the state whereas a woman’s items were considered personal property.  Perhaps this accounts for a less-showy Harem, although I’d be happy with one or two of the paintings, a Chinese vase or a dinner set. The rooms occupied by Ataturk before his death in 1938 were more humble. His message and legacy to the country and its people is clear.

Exterior of St Saviour Church, Chora

Then it was off to the country by taxi to visit the highly recommended St Saviour Church in Chora.  Parts of this 11th c Byzantine building date pre-413 AD and in its own way makes you realise what an achievement (in architectural terms) the Hagia Sophia was in its day.  However it was the frescoes and mosaics (1315-21) we came to see. Here you are up close and personal with some amazing Middle Age religious artworks, popular subjects at the time.  These special gems include the Genealogy of Christ, Life of the Virgin, Infancy of Christ and Christ’s ministry.   It is easy to understand the power and immediacy of the mosaics in a time when few could read or write.  The stories unfold effortlessly. 

Anastasis Fresco

Christ Pantocrator (Genealogy)

Within These Walls

Istanbul, Turkey: Day 4

We were proudly informed that Istanbul’s city walls have been breached only twice in 1600 years. Firstly by the Crusaders in 1204 (4th Crusade), who were apparently a thieving lot with pillage and looting on their minds. The second was led by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453 when he arrived with cannon and troops to take over the failing Byzantine Empire.  Constantinople, already a city of some wealth and splendour, was then renamed Istanbul. So began the mysteries and intrigues of the Ottoman Sultanate.

Sultan's Seal

Where better place to find the true essence of this intriguing Empire than Topkapi Palace, residence of Sultans for over 400 years?  The palace was designed as a 4 courtyard plan, essentially to keep the Sultan and his family in private, but it all added to the mystery and maintained a life regimented by tradition and ceremony.

Imperial Gate with Blue Mosque beyond

First Gate: Imperial Gate  and Court of Processions (or Regiments); open to all

Second Gate: Gate of Salutations and Council Chamber; open to those on imperial business; houses the vast kitchens (which were sadly closed at the time of our visit)

Inside the Harem

Gate of Felicity

Third Gate: Gate of Felicity and start of Sultan’s private domain; contains an audience chamber, a library, the Imperial Treasury (brimful of expensive goodies), mysterious Harem (brimful of romance) and Privy Chamber (brimful of important religious relics).

Fourth Gate: The Gardens and family quarters; Baghdad Kiosk, Circumcision Room, Balcony of Life and various garden rooms with wonderful views over the Golden Horn, Istanbul’s historic harbour.

Ceiling, Baghdad Kiosk

Pavilion Fountain

After the Palace, where to next?  As they say, Cavalry to the rescue.  The Cavalry Bazaar, also called the Arasta, housed in the old Palace Stables (near the Blue Mosque) had a nice selection of stalls, was less frenetic than the Grand Bazaar and well-positioned ie much closer to our hotel to carry home booty.  (You see – always thinking!) 

Grand Palace Mosaic detail - amazing craftsmanship

Whilst we were in the vicinity, we visited the small but delightful Mosaics Museum.  The mosaics were only fairly recently revealed and once formed part of the old Byzantine Great Palace complex (324 AD).  The Palace is said to have had hundreds of rooms and many sumptuous gold mosaics.  Themes represented on this vast (& thankfully surviving) mosaic include rustic, landscape, mythology, hunting and more. 

The Blue Mosque

Finally it was time to brave the crowds and line up to see the Blue Mosque. This is another spectacular building thanks to the perseverance of Sultan Ahmet 1st. Constructed during a time (1609) when the Empire was in decline, funds short and its architectural design strongly criticised, the mosque is strikingly beautiful, inside and out. The interior is covered in blue Iznik ceramic tiles, hence the unofficial title of Blue Mosque, although the outside too has strong slate-blue overtones.

Inside the Blue Mosque

On Shanks Ponies

 Istanbul, Turkey: Day 3

Inside Hagia Sophia

First stop on our itinerary was Hagia Sophia (meaning divine wisdom) where we chose to enlist the services of guide, Omar, to explain the hidden secrets of this fascinating Byzantine period building.  Emperor Justinian inaugurated the Church in 537 in an attempt to restore the greatness of the Roman Empire. 

Its central dome was at the time a technological wonder, allowing vast uninterrupted and richly decorated space for worshippers. Many an orange has been sliced and diced in an art class to help understand the architectural significance of this domed construction. 

Central dome from far below

Giddy from Byzantine mosaic angels swirling above our heads, we made our way to the more sedate but no less awe-inspiring Archaeological Museum, which houses Turkey’s premier collection of antiquities. The main building was undergoing some renovation too, however enough of the collection was on show to keep us amused for many hours. 

We started with the Museum of the Ancient Orient where Nebuchadnezzar’s Gates of Babylon (604-562 BC) and the clay Treaty of Kadesh between the Hittites and Egyptians agreed in 1269 BC are kept.  You just have to keep pinching yourself to know you’re not dreaming.

Gates of Nebuchadnezzar

Next we visited the Tiled Kiosk of Mehmet the Conqueror (1472) a visual feast of tiles and ceramic works.  This building was once an imperial residence and we began to understand why Istanbul was famous for the opulent lifestyle of the Ottoman Sultanate.  The camera was snapping hot!

Tiled Kiosk

Tea was not served for us in these

After a brief break at the outdoor café, surrounded by a scattering of real ruins and real kittens, we took a deep breath and made for the front doors of the main building.  Inside a selection of classical and pre-classical artefacts – to die for… is on display.  Alexander Sarcophagus (named because it depicts Alexander the Great’s victory over the Persians), finds from the 9 different cities of Troy (could Troy VIIa be Homer’s Troy?), Greek & Roman statues, pre-historic discoveries and much, much more. Exhausted? Yes, and it’s only day 2….

Alexander Sarcophagus

A Grand Tourist

Istanbul, Turkey: Day 2

During those heady days of the Grand Tour, Italy and Greece lured travellers with their offerings of classical antiquity. The nearby Ottoman Empire however breathed mystery, intrigue and opulence - a life beyond ordinary. Today, the goings-on in the Topkapi Palace seem tame by comparison, but the city of Istanbul remains a tourist magnet.  We knew this, noting at least 4 cruise ships dockside in the Beyoglu quarter.  Still, we too were drawn like moths.

Exotic Asia beyond the Maiden's Tower

Consulting our many travel guides (we'd hate to miss a thing!), we headed out early (pre-crowd) to buy our 72 hour museum pass.  Although we had no hope of visiting every site included on the pass (for 75TL), avoiding long ticket queues would save lots of time, essential even if you do have a week to play.  The other key ingredient in our plan was a central hotel.  The Ambassador was just that, with Hagia Sophia (said: high ah so fee ah) and surrounds only a 5 minute walk away and a tram on our doorstep (well, almost). 

View from our breakfast balcony

We scheduled our visits with only a few sites each day so as not to rush and planned to avoid any closed days.  Luckily we found out early that Sacrifice Day celebrations were coming up so we were able to work around that too.  From our earlier walking tour (with the tour group) we could prioritise what we wanted to see and knew that both the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts (former #1 priority) and the Archaeological Park were closed for significant renovations.

Glittering Gold Mosaics (Hagia Sophia)

GS had also done a little research into textile hotspots,, so that information was added to a burgeoning “To Do” list.  A little shopping and a few decent restaurants (for dinner stops) were added in – just to mix it up.  We can’t be too hard core rock hounds…  By this time, GS was wishing we had booked to stay for a month, not a week!!

The tile work was pretty amazing too!

Istanbul for Beginners

Istanbul, Turkey: Day 1

To round off our Turkey Tour experience, we planned to explore Istanbul on our own.  A week, we thought, should cover most things… 

Clearly we weren't the only ones in town this week...
ferries, trains & cruise ships galore

So with suitcases bumping noisily over cobbled pavements, off we marched to negotiate Sultanahmet’s labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes.  We lucked in and easily found the wonderful Ambassador Hotel, our base for the week.  The Cap’n is now master and commander of his smartphone – or at least the street maps & GPS component of it. 

Contrast

Given our sleep deprivation (from the overnight bus trip), we decided that a relaxing Bosporus Cruise was in order for the afternoon.  It is quite a good way to get your bearings, both geographically and historically as the narrow Bosphorus, separating Europe from Asia, is lined with palaces, fortresses, mosques and homes of the well-to-do from all eras.  No wonder conquering commanders coveted its strategic location and Mark Twain (in 1867) waxed lyrical about Constantinople’s impressive skyline. 

Excuse me madam, you're sitting in my seat...
(well ok, only if you share that nice fish sandwich)

We made a mental note to visit the opulent Dolmabahce Palace, admired the Fortresses of Europe and Asia at the narrowest point on the Bosphorus, lusted after the quaint, waterside yali (mansions) of Yenikoy and had a fresh fish sandwich at Anadolu Kavagi, a small fishing village and our only stop. From here we were able to peer out to the Black Sea and wonder if we would ever have time to visit on WJ3.

Sultan's Summer House (always painted red)

Sailing the Bosphorus is not for the faint-hearted, we decided, happy to let others captain our ferry.  This narrow waterway, a funnel connecting the Black Sea with the Mediterranean, is strewn with big ships, ferries and tourist boats.  Add to this mix challenging currents, choppy waters and few suitable anchorages, this is not the place to be outside daylight hours - unless you're really brave...