Princes & Paupers

Gate for Visitors to the Palace is certainly awe-inspiring

Istanbul, Turkey: Day 5

Our next foray meant a trip beyond the confines of Sultanahmet.  We set off on the tram, an easy trip across the Golden Horn, to visit the very popular Dolmabache Palace.  It seemed that everyone else had the same idea – the ticket office queue was long & the guided tour waiting list endless.  At least we made it in before the daily admittance limit had been reached.  First stop was the Selamlik or ceremonial rooms.  Our English-speaking guide was professional but fast – there would be no lingering on this tour.  We were also not allowed to take photos inside, so it was good to see security staff on the ball, picking up mobile phone camera cheats.

Imperial Gate & queue for Selamlik

Dolmabache Palace, built in 1843-56, is opulent, lavish, sumptuous and over-decorated.  The message to Europe at the time was most certainly clear – an Empire in need of a health check this could not be.  Smoke and mirrors!   Still, that did not stop them from spending grandly.  From the ornate clock tower gate, swan fountain, 4000kg chandeliers, crystal staircases and swathes of silk and carpets, this was a grand design indeed.  The Paris Opera interior designers were contracted no less!

The Gardens & Swan Fountain

The Harem was more in keeping with its status as family rooms.  We discovered that items owned by men belonged to the state whereas a woman’s items were considered personal property.  Perhaps this accounts for a less-showy Harem, although I’d be happy with one or two of the paintings, a Chinese vase or a dinner set. The rooms occupied by Ataturk before his death in 1938 were more humble. His message and legacy to the country and its people is clear.

Exterior of St Saviour Church, Chora

Then it was off to the country by taxi to visit the highly recommended St Saviour Church in Chora.  Parts of this 11th c Byzantine building date pre-413 AD and in its own way makes you realise what an achievement (in architectural terms) the Hagia Sophia was in its day.  However it was the frescoes and mosaics (1315-21) we came to see. Here you are up close and personal with some amazing Middle Age religious artworks, popular subjects at the time.  These special gems include the Genealogy of Christ, Life of the Virgin, Infancy of Christ and Christ’s ministry.   It is easy to understand the power and immediacy of the mosaics in a time when few could read or write.  The stories unfold effortlessly. 

Anastasis Fresco

Christ Pantocrator (Genealogy)