Panacea for the Soul

These guys, a dive boat, wanted fuel too.  Oh oh!  We were squeezed off the dock.
They had better wait in line or we might miss out

After a few days rest, it was back to chores, including refuelling for our next leg to the Bahamas, so opted to refill at South Bank Marina.  To buy fuel, you must check in & out of the country.  Fortunately, this process can be done at the Marina by very friendly officials.  Unfortunately, by the time we were processed, the Fuel Dock hands had finished work for the night.  So, we stayed tied to the dock and had a night at the marina before refuelling and heading back to Sapodilla Bay to re-anchor.  

Then the Cap'n thought of a way to distract them...

Having sworn off overnighters after our previous adventure, we realised that an overnighter would get us to George Town in the Bahamas in two days, rather than taking 5 day sails.  So, let’s get this over with!  Out the Sandbore Channel and over the precipitous east bank, we were on our own again, except for a huge cruise ship, not easy to miss, lit up like an over-decorated Christmas tree.  This year’s weather has certainly put many early season arrivals off. 

Sailing at night by the light of a full moon.  The owl & the Pussycat...

And really calm waters off Long Island & Gun Cay, Bahamas

We rounded Cape Santa Maria, Long Island, in the late afternoon, day 2.  Named after one of Columbus’s ships, there is a monument to Columbus atop this rugged cliff.  It is said the local Lucayan Taino lasted only 15 years after their encounter with the Spaniards.  Others say that there is no evidence of Taino in the Bahamas at all.  So, rather like the differing opinions over Columbus’s actual voyage through the Bahamas, facts are few and stories many.  Still, it gave us something to muse on as we anticipated a night meander through the challenging, reef-lined East cut into George Town.  At least we had the light of a full moon and calm seas to help guide us in.  And the anchor lights of at least 150 other cruising boats

Just a few at anchor off Stocking Island, George Town.

The next morning, it was time to check in, pay for a $300 cruising permit, then after a round of the supermarket with not a lot in it and a lugging a few jerrycans of fuel (no fuel dock in this busy, busy harbour), we headed out for Galliot’s Cut to get onto the Exuma Bank.  Luck was with us and we had an ingoing tide and no wind, so made a dash for Black Point Settlement to see if we could buy engine oil there.  We bought out their supply, then moved on to Shroud Cay.  Sadly, there was no time to do another motor through this extensive mangrove system to look for rays, sharks and turtles.  Early next morning, we crossed the bank to anchor for a very choppy night off Nassau at West Bay, hoping for a weather window to allow us to get to Bullocks Harbour and then Lucaya.  Here we planned a short stay at the Great Bahama Yacht Club.  Here we could shop for groceries, wash clothes and otherwise be presentable on arrival in the US.  Before we could leave however, we had to pay a $75 departure tax. 

Sunset over the Exuma Bank and another night arrival!

Mail Boats (blue hull) bring much needed supplies across the Bahamas. 
Black Point Settlement in the Exumas, now in need of more engine oil...

Tied up in a cosy slip late in the afternoon at Grand Bahama Yacht Club

So, it was with some anticipation, we headed off to cross the Gulf Stream for West Palm Beach.  It was a smooth ride, with both wind and current assisting our passage to, unusually for us, make a daytime entry. 

Not before having a spectacular sunset farewell from GBYC

(For those wondering, travelling rapidly has meant many of our photos are taken at the start or end of the day.  In some places, we haven't even had time to get off the boat, and it's now too cool to swim.  Day photos are mostly open ocean, so totally boring.  We hope to do much better along the ICW.)  

Weather Games & Water Torture

Puerto Real Marina, small but very friendly.  Note overcast skies...

Having bid the hurricane season farewell, we did not expect great swathes of fronts crossing from Alaska, bringing storms, unsettled seas and snow as far south as Texas and Georgia.  Warm waters of the Caribbean were not unaffected, and finding a weather window in this milieu to get us to Turks & Caicos, a three-day exercise, was proving difficult.  Finally, an exasperated Cap’n decided, we could leave now with following winds, or wait for another two weeks.  So, we upped anchor and left.

Our voyage started off well in the protection of the reef, but the Mona Passage, between Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic, has something of a reputation being a regular conveyor belt of storms into the Caribbean Sea.  Other than increasingly strengthening winds, we were indeed, in a following breeze and making good time.  The problem was, wind and swell continued to increase with the onset of the evening and when the Coast Guard issued a “small ships alert” (winds 18-34kts and seas 7 to 10 feet), we knew we were in for a beating.  It was about this time, that the autopilot relinquished command of the helm, and the Cap’n had to hand steer.  We had come too far to turn back, naturally, although at one point we did consider running back to Luperon in the DR, however continued on for Turks Caicos in the hope that these large banks would offer some shelter, eventually...

After 48 hours at the helm, GS took command (and her head out of a bucket) and learning how not to steer in great loops, managed, with the aid of the compass, to head in the right direction allowing our good Cap’n a few hours sleep.  The seas were starting to ease, whales wintering off the Mouchoir and Silver Banks, had better things to do than disturb us, and we only had to dodge 3 local freighters.  Why is it that we only pass them at night when they’re ablaze with confusing lights!  

The third day saw us in much improved conditions although we were still hand steering.  Our approach to the south Caicos Bank though, would be at night.  Having taken the wider Ship (freighter) Channel over this coral strewn bank once before (in daylight) we felt confident (well, sort of) heading for this channel entrance.  Naturally, an hour out, the engine stopped!!  So, we wallowed about, GS keeping a shipping watch, while the now very, very tired Cap’n managed to get us underway again.  Replacing the fuel filter did the trick.  All of us, WJ3 and crew, had had enough by now. 

Over the precipitous bank, from 2000ft of water into 12 is also unnerving, but we followed the channel by our chart’s magenta line, hoping not to meet any more commercial traffic.   Needless, to say, by this stage, we were both hallucinating.  So, we carefully threaded our way through the commercial anchorage, around a bommie strewn reef, then with huge relief, into Sapodilla Bay, busy with fellow cruisers. 

Next morning, our Cap’n shouted, “There’s no one here.  Where did they go?”  We stood staring at stunning turquoise waters as far as the eye could see, and other than a freighter at the nearby Port, we were the only ones at anchor.  

Sapodilla Bay.  Nobody anchored here for sure

Looking back to the Ship Channel.  No-one there either!  
If your wondering, that's a Starlink receiver, used at anchor.
Gee-whiz technology for cruisers

Diving, No Diving; Marina, No Marina…

Although tempted to stay and explore Puerto Rico further, home was calling and we needed to keep moving.  Having said that, we declared an additional stop at La Parguera.  A party town with miles of fringing reef, had been squeezed into the itinerary.  Cap’n Diver Dan was keen to put the snorkel on and perhaps find a stray lobster or two.

Just how did all that water get into the outboard fuel, hmmm?

After anchoring, and wasting no time, Bruce the Brave was launched and off the Cap’n putted in search of ice.  Perhaps it was to keep our (possible) lobsters fresh.  Who knows?  The outboard had different ideas and there was our Cap’n adrift.  Thankfully, some kind hot-water boaters undertook the rescue mission, and stopped to give him a tow back to WJ3.  

Bruce wasn't going anywhere for now.  The nearest coral reef had a couple of mooring balls free but were they adequate to hold WJ3’s tank-like build?  Also, it was a very popular spot with lots of folks in the water.  Maybe not quite the dive the Cap’n was hankering for.  So, we stayed put near the boat ramp, and after the evening’s “back to the boat ramp” rush hour, we settled down for a very still night.  

La Parguera, quite the busy holiday town and our very calm anchorage

We have failed to mention a rather intriguing observation.  GS had noticed a rather large zeppelin floating above Puerto Rico’s south west corner.  With spy balloons and hovering drones recently seen in American skies, this rather plump floater seemed suspicious.  GS took loads of photos.  Nobody else seemed the least bit concerned.  From our anchorage in La Parguera, it became apparent that the blimp was tethered, and by nightfall, had been pulled back down to earth.  We later found out is indeed a tethered aerostat radar system (eyes in the sky or as someone called it, Fat Albert!) for the Coast Guard.  The Coast Guard certainly needs all the help they can get along this coastline. 

Strange creatures and a blimp in the skies

Cape Rojo, Puerto Rico's scenic south-western point

Next morning and lobster-less, we rounded Cape Rojo with its stately lighthouse and sallied forth squeezing between another extensive reef and the coast, making for Puerto Real.  Christmas bookings and a continuous flow of Caribbean bound vessels meant our chances of a stay in the marina were slim, so we happily stayed on anchor.  Meanwhile, we refuelled, purchased a new battery for the bow thruster, revitalising it, and feasted on lobster caught by local fisherman but expertly cooked by our Cap’n.  All the while, hoping for a weather window suitable to get us, in 3 days, to Turks Caicos.  This was to be our last big “at sea” experience.  No more over-nighters once there.  Famous Last Words!!

Cooking with the Cap'n & one spiney lobster

And all 6 lbs. beautifully cooked too!

Doing the Tonne

What do you mean, your not reading the blog!!
And just who is driving the boat?

We are currently hunkered down in a marina in the Bahamas waiting for a weather window to cross the cranky (at times) Gulf Stream to West Palm Beach.  So, there’s been time to update the blog, even if it’s just the words for now!  Here’s the latest…

Early in January 2025, our WJ3 site views from 2011 reached 6 figures!!  We’ve reached the stars; just over 100,000, all gold to us.  Now, we’ve said we are not in it for fame or fortune, but it sure was nice to know that so many friends are sailing downwind with us and we sincerely appreciate your support.  

Here’s a story for you!  GS’s dad, who lived on Bribie Island, Queensland (Australia) went to the corner shop for his usual Sunday newspapers.  As he stood in line he got chatting with a neighbour and for whatever reason talked about their plans for the rest of the day.  Dad’s neighbour was going home to catch up on blogs he was enjoying and he told Dad about an Aussie couple on a boat travelling round the Mediterranean.  My Dad said, as he listened to the story, he realised that his neighbour was talking about us, so they shared a good laugh over that one!  Isn’t it such a small world…

For those wondering, this figure does not include our Early Years (link to site on tab above) from 2008 to 2010, now old news but certainly part of our story.  These figures aren't accurate anyway, given our flight across platforms Vox, Typepad, then Wordpress (too geeky for us) to finally settle for the simple life on Blogger.  

For those also wondering about our future sailing plans, then the news is that we, having considered all sorts of options, including the Great Loop again, are simply going to bounce around the East Coast of the US, keeping Miss WJ3 tidy and in trim in her (and our) dotage, and catch up on places we haven’t visited or some that must be revisited.  (Maine lobsters are wanting to get to know us again, for sure!)  So, it’s simple, easy sailing we want, combined with a bit of land travel where-ever that whim takes us; so, nothing too complicated or fussy.   

Thank you so much for enjoying the ride along with us.  And keep reading!