Travelling North

Marmaris to Kusadasi, Turkey

Leaving Marmaris

Ancient Citadel of Loryma: Bozuk Buku

Finally, since breaking free from our anchorage in Marmaris, we’ve had a dream run travelling north – so far, touch wood.  A slight breeze from the west kicked in with our departure and the many delights of this part of the world became apparent.  Our only regret is we cannot visit the numerous Dodecanese (Greek) Islands that are so, so temptingly close to the Turkish coast. (We don't want to sign in and have the Schengen clock - 3 months - tick away too early.)  Still, we march on undeterred and have snagged a few isolated and lovely anchorages despite the coast appearing to be one huge resort. 

Kizil Adasi Passage: Bozburun

Full Moon over Datca

Not quite moonlight: the bright party lights of Datca

We are currently sitting in a marina in Kusadasi, civilization close at hand with 4 vast cruise ships lining nearby docks.  This is the stop off point for visits to Ephesus, but even so, it is a popular resort area for British and Russians.  We know this for sure because the local Migros (supermarket) has bacon.  Our end of the dock could well be renamed “kangaroo corner” as we’ve bumped into Aussies on boats by the bucket load since docking.  ("Awatea" - yes, I know a Kiwi & "Apricari" with an electric motored bike that I'm now lusting after!)

Resorts & Hot Water Boats in Yalikavak

Ah, the Serenity! Paradise Bay, Kazikli Limani 

Our sights are set on Avyalik, so there’s a bit of distance yet to cover.  We have another 2 weeks before setting sail for Greece (float plan dependant on the arrival of the Meltemi and hindered by Schengen visa time).   Never enough time to get our heads around the history and culture of this fascinating corner of the world!   Perhaps just enough for one last visit to a carpet shop though…

Byzantine Forts & Floating Cities: Kusadasi

From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.449N 28:18.816E Date/Time: 10/06/14: 0620
To: Kusadasi, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:52.255N 27:15.760E Date/Time: 17/06/14: 1215
Time Taken: 184nm (33hrs) Distance (this year): 184.5nm (33hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13517.5nm   Weather: WSW 8-10kts;
Fastest Speed: Varied from motoring in dead calm to some very pleasant sailing

Plummeting Gulls Gale

Pupa Yat Anchorage, Marmaris, Turkey

I’ve decided to name this gale after the giant gulls that seem to be the only ones really enjoying themselves at this very moment.  The pilot notes that historically, a number of “regular” gales are named after birds.  So here they are swooping and soaring in gusts anywhere between 20-40 kts.   Others, gathered over an exposed sandbank, seem to be leaping and hopping in a mad crowd wave, all rather pleased with themselves.  It could be gale choreographed hi-jinks.

We, on the other hand, are happy daylight offers visibility – a necessity when anchors are dragging, boat dinghies flipping and tempers flaring.   We’re also grateful that our little discussion with the excitable Italians late last night (at 9pm) gave the Cap’n the sh*ts, providing him with incentive to move closer to shore.  Those six gulets currently hogging the shoreline (med moored) have hardly moved; WJ3 has fared only slightly worse whilst those further out in the anchorage are really copping it. 

The Cap’n is reporting in with his truth seeking binoculars on general activities and we’ve even snooped on a VHF radio call or two.  Who needs TV?  This is only our third day out and so far we’re grateful that WJ3’s basics are holding up ok.  Big Bertha (our Rochna anchor) is again being a dream girl while we spin and whirl to the tune of those nasty gusts.  Our decks are covered in fine red sand; a sure sign that Africa’s sand dunes march irrevocably toward Europe.  Meanwhile, the Italians are still giving us clandestine glances....

Waiting, waiting... for the gale to end

 From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.173N 28:18.475E Date/Time: 2/06/14: 1600
To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.555N 28:18.899E Date/Time: 3/06/14: 2100
Time Taken: 0.5nm (hrs) Distance (this year): 0.5nm (hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13333.5nm   Weather: Unsettled;
Fastest Speed: under motor (sails released from their bags for the season & put up out on the anchorage)

And now for some Launch Photos:

Our "backyard" views.  The Cap'n is off to find our splash time.

Firstly, we're given a dink

Then, it's the BIG lift again

A Forest of Bunny Ears

Istanbul, then on to Marmaris, Turkey

Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain 1901 only recently restored

Back to cosmopolitan Istanbul with just enough time to visit the remnants of this once Byzantine city, eastern capital of the Roman Empire and capital of the Christian world for over a thousand years.  We started with Hagia Sophia (again, GS is besotted), strolled around the Hippodrome taking in the recently restored Kaiser Wilhelm’s fountain (1901), noted that the Palace of Ibrahim Pasa (housing the Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum) was still under renovation and then took a Big Bus Tour round town to see what we’d missed. 

Afternoon crowds gather to see Hagia Sophia

After our short Istanbul stop-over we jetted back to Marmaris to the lovely Windjammer.  Of course, she’d been moved in our absence and the key was missing; not the best thing late at night!  But it all worked out in the end, and here we are at Yat Marine even closer to the field of BIG hot water boats sprouting a growing collection of bunny ears (those SAT & TV domes that look like Mickey Mouse caps). 

Inside Hagia Sophia at the balcony where the Empress
would observe formalities

We’re working at setting WJ3 up slowly, partly due to a dose of the flu (yes, both of us!) and having a little bit of work done professionally to tart her up for the coming season.  Our splash is scheduled for the 2^nd June and only yesterday it was blowing 37km per hour over Paros (in the Cyclades, mid Aegean Sea).  Yep, another bumpy ride coming up; we wondered if sitting on the hard all season in Marmaris wouldn't be so bad after all…

The Cap'n pretends he's not being watched...
Breakfast at the Ambassador Hotel in Istanbul

(For anyone interested, the WJ3 Map & Tracker is updated now and will be more current than the blog for our whereabouts.  And photos to come - we're back to internet access basics again!)

Picnicking Pigs

Marmaris, Turkey

View of old quarter & fort from Marmaris fuel dock

Marmaris, like Fethiye, was destroyed in a 1958 earthquake, so little remains of ancient Physkos and only a modest portion of the old Ottoman city exists (a medieval fort and its quaint old quarter, reminiscent of Chefchaouen, Morrocco).  Tourism has taken its toll, and like most of the coastline we have explored so far, restaurants and deck chairs cover the best beaches whilst remote bays are cluttered with gulets, tour boats or charter fleets.  Marmaris also offers a safe cruise ship port and we had seen as many as two arrive in one day to unload passengers for a “Turkish Resort Experience”.  Sadly, the local bazaar is boring (though big) and the Ottoman Fort (built by Suleiman for his attack on Rhodes in 1522) plus the in-situ museum, was closed.  Marmaris is hardly a historical lightweight however as it was also used by Lord Nelson to coordinate his fleet for an attack on the French (Abukir, 1798). 

Our anchorage away from the centre of town

Otherwise our anchorage has been interesting; today it's models posing on the beach, yesterday it was Porky, the picnicking pig (actually a feral boar that quite scattered the late stayers) and one or two exceedingly crazy turtles.  Madness extends to the Caylak Firtinasi (or Kite Gale*) which finally caught up with us – two days of battering ram waves across the bay – predicted as long ago as the Egyptian Coptics put together an Almanac of Gales that synthesises with the Turkish Storm Tables.  Today it’s finally easing and we have great hopes of getting some chores done pre-haul out at Marmaris Yacht Marine, boatyard of choice.  Finally a decision’s been made! 

Happy as a pig in mud (well, picnic leftovers actually)..

Yes, that’s right…we’re hauling out early with a plan to travel (sans sail boat) to see a little more of Turkey, leaving a week to explore Istanbul.   So, it’s time to bid WJ3 a fond farewell in her new home and for us to start planning next year’s explorations of the Med….all around the %$#@*!! Meltemi. 

WJ3 dwarfed by this huge travel lift - normally used for superyachts
We can always pretend

Don’t tune out however, as we hope to post up our travels in Turkey as we explore further….all things being equal!)

* Although we rocked wildly inside Marmaris Limani, we've since been told winds outside reached 45kts G50. 

Sunset over the yard - finally some cloud action!

Tomb Raiders

Marmaris to Fethiye, Turkey: Lycian Coast

View over Fethiye

After making arrangements with Marmaris Yacht Marin, we had a few spare days and decided to spend them idly in the Fethiye area.  Off we sailed (south) with a rather decent following breeze of 10-15 kts.  It was a lovely sunny day, as this season had mostly been.  However, poor WJ3 is looking dishevelled reminding us that we’d not seen a drop of rain since the UK (early May).  Despite this, the Lycian coast is green and wildly remote.  Many of the anchorages we spotted were quite idyllic; deep clear water and pine forest right down to the water’s edge. 

Great day for a sail....downwind - perhaps we should upgrade to WJ4?

Aside from the armada of charterers cruising down this coast with us, we happened upon a submarine that had to use all its stealth and cunning to manoeuvre through our fleet and out to sea.  The sight of this modern “stealth machine” made us picture battleships of old under full sail and the impressive sight they must have been. 

Rock cut Tomb of Amyntas, (350 BC)...amazing!

We decided to visit Fethiye first as it promised a few interesting opportunities to get up close with the remains of Telmessus, the Lycian Federation’s principle port.  (Xanthos, the capital is located to the south.)  The Lycians were an indigenous race with a somewhat sobering reputation for their skill in battle and seamanship.  They had a penchant for carving tombs out of solid cliff faces as well, which we couldn’t help but notice sailing into Fethiye; the Tomb of Amyntas (350 BC) set high above the town glints dramatically in the afternoon sun.

Next day, with walking shoes on, we scrambled up into the steep area behind town to visit the tombs.  We could access only one, but had a good view of many others chipped out of the surrounding cliff face.  There is also a fantastic view back across the town, the resort sprawl and the entire bay.  On the way down, we found a couple of small tortoises who were obviously in charge of keeping the “lawns” mowed.  They must be looking forward to a bit of rain as well!

The town has been build around old water cisterns 
(Ottoman period) like this one

Further along and also above town is a medieval fort (Knights of St John), now a dusty, unrestored ruin.  Despite encouragement from its keeper, we skipped this pleasure on such a hot day.  It is certain that the fort was built over earlier fortifications perhaps from Telmessus times.  One site that is being given an overhaul (restoration dollars) is the ancient (Roman) theatre.  Located right in town between the port area and what remains of the old Ottoman city (Paspatur), it will soon have a new life as an entertainment venue.  

Some of the Museum's outdoor exhibits

Back in town, we headed for Fethiye’s museum, quite a little gem.  The exhibits are well cared for, have succinct explanations (including English translations) and are ordered in logical sequence.  It is relatively easy then for time-poor visitors to get a feel for how Telmessus developed with each new “wave” of settlers.  Out in the well cared for grounds, is an assemblage of sarcophagi, essentially all that remains, other than the rock tombs, of ancient Telmessus.  

A piece from Roman times - very beautiful

The market area made pleasant strolling although the hamam (a 16^th c bathhouse) attendant couldn’t talk the Cap’n into submitting his body.  (The Cap’n still has nightmares from his Moroccan hamam experience at the hands of the Berber Bear!).  Whilst we didn’t buy souvenirs or carpets (tempting!) we did stop to eat at Megri.  We shared a traditional lamb dish cooked in a clay pot (& cracked open at our table) with the best flat breads (hot from the oven) we’d eaten so far. 

Our decision to leave Fethiye came earlier than we planned.  For unknown reasons, we were the anchored sail boat chosen to move (at 7.30am) so that the Coast Guard could manoeuvre into a nearby S&R dock.  We understood it was an emergency situation but as always, when you need to act with haste (especially with a large CG vessel bearing down on you), every link in 200 feet of chain seemed congested with slime & mud.  Anchor woman bent to the task of spraying down the chain and anchor; however, WJ3 (and she) quickly became a muddy mess.  So then it seemed appropriate to head for Gocek, up-market village and bay thick with the yachtie set.  After negotiating our way into the designated anchorage area, we decided it wasn’t for us and leaving a muddy trail behind, headed out for Skopea Limani to search for that perfect anchorage .

Wild topiary birds in Fethiye's water-side park

We settled on Boynuz Buku, a mini-fiord with steep sides, lots of pines and deep waters.  We found a cosy spot and med-moored.  The anchor dropped in over 100 feet just 3 boat-lengths from shore and our stern positioned close to the cliff; so close in fact, we thought we were sheltering under large pine trees.  It was rather warm so this time Cap’n Courageous leapt in and obligingly swam ashore with our long line.  Later in the day this popular spot filled up, taking the edge off its attractiveness. 

Fethiye Town Dock - with old Fort (under the big flag) with caves behind;
rock tombs (to the left) but not clearly visible 

We decided to move on rather than spend the night in Boynuz Buku.  The Cap’n noticed strong winds were forecast in the days ahead, and as we had to travel north (against the prevailing winds), decided it was time to make a move now.  So we did.  At night in weaker winds…or so we thought.  At one time we were bashing into 20 knots or more trying to make headway.  GS having come down with the flu, made for a bunk and slept the entire 8 hours of the trip, waking in time to set the anchor in Marmaris Limani.  A cunning plan indeed…..

From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.566N 28:18.830E Date/Time: 9/09/13: 0930

To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.543N 28:18.898E Date/Time: 13/09/13: 1330
Time Taken: 115nm (19.5hrs) Distance (this year): 2509nm (408hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13334nm   Weather: NW  10-20kts;
Fastest Speed: 5.9kts; under motor & limited sail