Tomb Raiders

Marmaris to Fethiye: Lycian Coast

View over Fethiye

After making arrangements with Marmaris Yacht Marin, we had a few spare days and decided to spend them idly in the Fethiye area.  Off we sailed (south) with a rather decent following breeze of 10-15 kts.  It was a lovely sunny day, as this season had mostly been.  However, poor WJ3 is looking dishevelled reminding us that we’d not seen a drop of rain since the UK (early May).  Despite this, the Lycian coast is green and wildly remote.  Many of the anchorages we spotted were quite idyllic; deep clear water and pine forest right down to the water’s edge. 

Great day for a sail....downwind

Aside from the armada of charterers cruising down this coast with us, we happened upon a submarine that had to use all its stealth and cunning to manoeuvre through our fleet and out to sea.  The sight of this modern “stealth machine” made us picture battleships of old under full sail and the impressive sight they must have been. 

Rock cut Tomb of Amyntas, (350 BC)...amazing!

We decided to visit Fethiye first as it promised a few interesting opportunities to get up close with the remains of Telmessus, the Lycian Federation’s principle port.  (Xanthos, the capital is located to the south.)  The Lycians were an indigenous race with a somewhat sobering reputation for their skill in battle and seamanship.  They had a penchant for carving tombs out of solid cliff faces as well, which we couldn’t help but notice sailing into Fethiye; the Tomb of Amyntas (350 BC) set high above the town glints dramatically in the afternoon sun.

 

Next day, with walking shoes on, we scrambled up into the steep area behind town to visit the tombs.  We could access only one, but had a good view of many others chipped out of the surrounding cliff face.  There is also a fantastic view back across the town, the resort sprawl and the entire bay.  On the way down, we found a couple of small tortoises who were obviously in charge of keeping the “lawns” mowed.  They must be looking forward to a bit of rain as well!

The town has been build around old water cisterns (Ottoman period) like this one

Further along and also above town is a medieval fort (Knights of St John), now a dusty, unrestored ruin.  Despite encouragement from its keeper, we skipped this pleasure on such a hot day.  It is certain that the fort was built over earlier fortifications perhaps from Telmessus times.  One site that is being given an overhaul (restoration dollars) is the ancient (Roman) theatre.  Located right in town between the port area and what remains of the old Ottoman city (Paspatur), it will soon have a new life as an entertainment venue.  

Some of the Museum's outdoor exhibits

Back in town, we headed for Fethiye’s museum, quite a little gem.  The exhibits are well cared for, have succinct explanations (including English translations) and are ordered in logical sequence.  It is relatively easy then for time-poor visitors to get a feel for how Telmessus developed with each new “wave” of settlers.  Out in the well cared for grounds, is an assemblage of sarcophagi, essentially all that remains, other than the rock tombs, of ancient Telmessus.  

A piece from Roman times - very beautiful

The market area made pleasant strolling although the hamam (a 16^th c bathhouse) attendant couldn’t talk the Cap’n into submitting his body.  (The Cap’n still has nightmares from his Moroccan hamam experience at the hands of the Berber Bear!).  Whilst we didn’t buy souvenirs or carpets (tempting!) we did stop to eat at Megri.  We shared a traditional lamb dish cooked in a clay pot (& cracked open at our table) with the best flat breads (hot from the oven) we’d eaten so far. 

 

Our decision to leave Fethiye came earlier than we planned.  For unknown reasons, we were the anchored sail boat chosen to move (at 7.30am) so that the Coast Guard could manoeuvre into a nearby S&R dock.  We understood it was an emergency situation but as always, when you need to act with haste (especially with a large CG vessel bearing down on you), every link in 200 feet of chain seemed congested with slime & mud.  Anchor woman bent to the task of spraying down the chain and anchor; however, WJ3 (and she) quickly became a muddy mess.  So then it seemed appropriate to head for Gocek, up-market village and bay thick with the yachtie set.  After negotiating our way into the designated anchorage area, we decided it wasn’t for us and leaving a muddy trail behind, headed out for Skopea Limani to search for that perfect anchorage .

Wild topiary birds in Fethiye's water-side park

We settled on Boynuz Buku, a mini-fiord with steep sides, lots of pines and deep waters.  We found a cosy spot and med-moored.  The anchor dropped in over 100 feet just 3 boat-lengths from shore and our stern positioned close to the cliff; so close in fact, we thought we were sheltering under large pine trees.  It was rather warm so this time Cap’n Courageous leapt in and obligingly swam ashore with our long line.  Later in the day this popular spot filled up, taking the edge off its attractiveness. 

Fethiye Town Dock - with old Fort (under the big flag) with caves behind;
rock tombs (to the left) but not clearly visible 

We decided to move on rather than spend the night in Boynuz Buku.  The Cap’n noticed strong winds were forecast in the days ahead, and as we had to travel north (against the prevailing winds), decided it was time to make a move now.  So we did.  At night in weaker winds…or so we thought.  At one time we were bashing into 20 knots or more trying to make headway.  GS having come down with the flu, made for a bunk and slept the entire 8 hours of the trip, waking in time to set the anchor in Marmaris Limani.  A cunning plan indeed…..

 

From: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.566N 28:18.830E Date/Time: 9/09/13: 0930

To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.543N 28:18.898E Date/Time: 13/09/13: 1330
Time Taken: 115nm (19.5hrs) Distance (this year): 2509nm (408hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13334nm   Weather: NW  10-20kts;
Fastest Speed: 5.9kts; under motor & limited sail