With some
reluctance (& substantially lighter wallets) we left Bodrum to begin our
boat yard inspection. Having learned
from experience, we’d already made a booking at a yard but wanted to see what
else was on offer in the area. So, with
a list of marinas and yards in hand – and several weeks left to kill – we set
off for a slow, Meltemi-driven cruise south.
Gulet under sail in Kuruca Buku |
We rounded
Cape Krio, hopeful of finding a place to explore the ruins of Knidos.
The harbour, though well protected, is just short of swimming pool size
and when crammed with large gulets, day-tripper boats and high-season sailboats,
does not offer an inviting option. Knidos
was a prosperous 4th century BC Doric (Greek) trading port. It was famed for its statue of naked Aphrodite (by
Praxiteles) and local residents Eudoxos, (an astronomer & mathematician)
and Sostratus (architect of the famous Pharos lighthouse of Alexandria –
another of the wonders of the Ancient World).
The Datca Lion - I presume this has come from Old Knidos |
Further on, the
village of Datca (site of Old
Knidos - before they moved for reasons of improved commerce) has a small resort area
with a pleasant harbour and anchorage.
Having said that, we had to re-anchor one night as the holding was not brilliant
after being buffeted by gusts sweeping down the hills behind town. Later as we strolled the town quay (as a docking option) and its
accompanying tussle of restaurants, we made a conscious decision never to dock
in amongst this very public frenzy.
Darling! Daarling...can you cope with winching in this line? |
The Turkish
Carian Coast offers lots of nooks and crannies, all within close range making it easy
to find a decent anchorage. Where depths
preclude anchoring alone, a rock or well-placed tree onshore is handy to tie a
long line back to the boat. This technique
is called “med-mooring” and like so many processes of boat-life required vital decisions
to be made, starting with who was going to swim to shore with the line! “No
swimming for me”, declared GS. “Nor am I
steering the boat so close to shore”….
Yes, the old impasse! GS then
spent hours looking through the Pilot for suitable anchorages and the Cap’n
considered the value of replacing his current crew.
Extraordinary landscapes along the coast |
Bencik was set for our next stop. It’s a delightful, green oasis after the red
rocky slopes of the Datca promontory, however, available spots were quickly
filled by a vast tourist fleet. So we
made for Keci Buku, anchoring off a
tiny island with Byzantine fort ruins and a population of cute little
rabbits. Nearby Marti Marina offered
hauling but at a price to match its well-heeled patrons; this area it seems is
home to several “exclusive” resorts. Not
for us in our current crew uniform of ancient undies and tatty singlets.
WJ3 at anchor in Keci Buku |
Bunnies & Byzantine Forts - we've seen it all |
After bidding
farewell to the bunnies, we took a course through a fiord-like channel between
small islands on the southern coast. At
the passage end, we met with huge Meltimi driven seas and a rocky cape. Squeezing round the corner we turned for Bozburun, and with the wind now following, it was actually a rather pleasant sail
(that means no motor, folks!). We
found an anchorage close to the village and had a herd of goats as our nearest,
noisiest, on-shore neighbours. Once a
sponge fishing centre, Bozburun, in its current guise hosts modest tourist
facilities and a gulet manufacturing industry.
With friendly locals, a great little supermarket and some nice
restaurants, we hunkered down for a few days.
Sadly the wind was up again for our departure so we missed seeing the “spectacular” clear & shallow waters of the Kizil Adasi passage. Still, in pioneering spirit, we made it through without mishap. Then WJ3 was Marmaris bound, into yet more swell and winds gusting 30 knots. Hi ho to the life of a sailor!
From:
Bodrum, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:02.091N 27:25.503E Date/Time: 20/08/13: 1220
To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.566N 28:18.830E Date/Time: 4/09/13: 1540
Time Taken: 140.5nm (29hrs) Distance (this year): 2394nm (388.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13219nm Weather: NNW 15-20kts; G30kts
Fastest Speed: 6.6kts;
Bozburun |
Sadly the wind was up again for our departure so we missed seeing the “spectacular” clear & shallow waters of the Kizil Adasi passage. Still, in pioneering spirit, we made it through without mishap. Then WJ3 was Marmaris bound, into yet more swell and winds gusting 30 knots. Hi ho to the life of a sailor!
Gulet under construction |
To: Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.566N 28:18.830E Date/Time: 4/09/13: 1540
Time Taken: 140.5nm (29hrs) Distance (this year): 2394nm (388.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13219nm Weather: NNW 15-20kts; G30kts
Fastest Speed: 6.6kts;
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