Bodrum to Marmaris, Turkey: The Carian Coast
With some
reluctance (& substantially lighter wallets) we left Bodrum to begin our
boatyard inspection. Having learned
from experience, we’d already made a booking at a yard but wanted to see what
else was on offer in the area. So, with
a list of marinas and yards in hand – and several weeks left to kill – we set
off for a slow, Meltemi-driven cruise south.
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| Gulet under sail in Kuruca Buku |
We rounded
Cape Krio, hopeful of finding a place to explore the ruins of Knidos.
The harbour, though well protected, is just short of swimming pool size
and when crammed with large gulets, day-tripper boats and high-season sailboats,
does not offer an inviting option. Knidos
was a prosperous 4th century BC Doric (Greek) trading port. It was famed for its statue of naked Aphrodite (by
Praxiteles) and local residents Eudoxos, (an astronomer & mathematician)
and Sostratus (architect of the famous Pharos lighthouse of Alexandria –
another of the wonders of the Ancient World).
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| The enormous Datca Lion - I presume this has come from Old Knidos |
Further on, the
village of Datca (site of Old
Knidos - before they moved for reasons of improved commerce) has a small resort area
with a pleasant harbour and anchorage.
Having said that, we had to re-anchor one night as the holding was not brilliant. We were buffeted by gusts sweeping down the hills behind town. Later, we strolled the town quay, checking it as a docking option. With its
accompanying tussle of restaurants, we made a conscious decision never to dock WJ3 in amongst this kind of very public frenzy. Self-preservation means anchoring out and taking Bruce to the town dock where he can withstand much more "pushing about" by less than careful tour boat operators and charter boaters.
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| Darling! Daarling...can you cope with winching in this line? |
The Turkish
Carian Coast offers lots of nooks and crannies, all within close range making it easy
to find a decent anchorage. Where depths
preclude anchoring alone, a rock or well-placed tree onshore is handy to tie a
long line back to the boat. This technique
is called “med-mooring” and like so many processes of boat-life required vital decisions
to be made, starting with who was going to swim to shore with the line! “No
swimming for me”, declared GS. “Nor am I
steering the boat so close to shore”….
Yes, the old impasse! GS then
spent hours looking through the Pilot for suitable anchorages and the Cap’n
considered the value of replacing his current crew.
Despite the
stalemate and not yet having text-book procedures in place, we decided to give med
mooring a shot at Kuruca Buku. On our second attempt, with the anchor set out and with the Cap’n diplomatically
in Bruce (rather than swimming), we settled in for a comfortable few days
tucked up nicely into this pretty pine tree covered bay. Here we finally met up with some cruising
folks, Miranna from Perth and Canadians, Doug & Irene; we had quite a
laugh. We had missed sailing in company
since the KIPS left us in Mallorca.
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| Extraordinary landscapes along the coast |
Bencik was set for our next stop. It’s a delightful, green oasis after the red
rocky slopes of the Datca promontory, however, available spots were quickly
filled by a vast tourist fleet. So we
made for Keci Buku, anchoring off a
tiny island with Byzantine fort ruins and a population of cute little
rabbits. Nearby Marti Marina offered
hauling but at a price to match its well-heeled patrons; this area it seems is
home to several “exclusive” resorts. Not
for us in our current crew uniform of ancient undies and tatty singlets.
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| WJ3 at anchor in Keci Buku |
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| Bunnies & Byzantine Forts - we've seen it all |
After bidding
farewell to the bunnies, we took a course through a fiord-like channel between
small islands on the southern coast. At
the passage end, we met with huge Meltimi driven seas and a rocky cape. Squeezing round the corner we turned for Bozburun, and with the wind now following, it was actually a rather pleasant sail
(that means no motor, folks!). We
found an anchorage close to the village and had a herd of goats as our nearest,
noisiest, on-shore neighbours. Once a
sponge fishing centre, Bozburun, in its current guise hosts modest tourist
facilities and a gulet manufacturing industry.
With friendly locals, a great little supermarket and some nice
restaurants, we hunkered down for a few days.
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| Bozburun - again we anchored well away from the town dock |
Sadly the
wind was up again for our departure so we missed seeing the “spectacular” clear
& shallow waters of the Kizil Adasi passage. Still, in pioneering spirit, we made it
through without mishap. Then WJ3 was Marmaris
bound, into yet more swell and winds gusting 30 knots. Hi ho to the life of a sailor!
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| Gulet under construction |
From:
Bodrum, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:02.091N 27:25.503E Date/Time: 20/08/13: 1220
To:
Marmaris, Turkey Lat/Long: 36:49.566N
28:18.830E Date/Time: 4/09/13: 1540
Time
Taken: 140.5nm (29hrs) Distance
(this year): 2394nm (388.5hrs)
Distance
Total (since 2008): 13219nm Weather: NNW 15-20kts; G30kts
Fastest
Speed: 6.6kts;
