Barcelona
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It's almost impossible to take a photo of the whole of La Sagrada Familia |
Given that
we’d just come from a drenching of Roman ruins and a splashing of Renaissance
art, it seemed at odds to be leaping into the world of Modernisme (1888-1911), an
Art Nouveau offshoot and bright, shining star of Spanish influence. This movement started out intent on ruffling
bourgeois tastes, but settled into an extravert style sourced from organic
shapes. Designs were resplendent with curves
(rather than straight lines) and underscored by incredible, complex detail much
sourced from Spain’s rich architectural heritage. Modernisme was unleashed on the world during
the 1888 Universal Exhibition (World Fair) held in a remodelled Ciutadella Park. The Exhibition featured the Castle of the
Three Dragons, the Arc del Triomf and the more traditional Columbus
Monument*.
In 1878,
Antoni Gaudi graduated as an architect and then in 1883 took over design responsibility
of La Sagrada Familia. Of nine buildings
listed by UNESCO as World Cultural Heritage, Gaudi is responsible for 7. His style, even by today’s standards is
exuberant, creative and wholly original.
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Glory Façade - detail (south side) |
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Nativity Façade - detail (east side) |
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Passion Façade - detail (west side) |
Our tour
included a visit to four of these architectural delights, with a peek inside
two of them. First stop was the most
famous, La Sagrada Familia, of
dizzying proportions and decoration.
Luckily, we had guide, Marc, and 1½ hours because even though the site is
extremely popular, its story is worth the telling and understanding. A foundation stone was set in 1882 and the
complex only opened to the public in 2012, yet the site remains unfinished,
funding sourced through visitors & benefactors. Its design is highly complex, deeply symbolic
and a passionate personal expression. We
started at the Nativity façade (finished by Gaudi) moved through the amazing
interior, stopped to observe the Passion façade (with controversial sculptures
by Josep Maria Subirachs), and finished in the underground vault where a small
museum houses models, diagrams and photos.
It is hoped that construction will be completed by 2026, the centenary
of Gaudi’s death.
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Afternoon light on west side |
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A new twist on traditional
stained glass windows |
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Floating above the altar |
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Internal columns branch like trees |
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The ceiling resembles an underwater reef scene |
* For those
interested in history, the Columbus Monument is erected on the site where
Columbus first set foot in Europe following his first voyage to the Americas.
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