Wednesday, October 19, 2016

Catalan Style - Modernisme (Part 1)

Barcelona, Spain: La Sagrada Familia
It's almost impossible to take a photo of the whole of La Sagrada Familia
Given that we’d just come from a drenching of Roman ruins and a splashing of Renaissance art, it seemed at odds to be leaping into the world of Modernisme (1888-1911), an Art Nouveau offshoot and bright, shining star of Spanish influence.  This movement started out intent on ruffling bourgeois tastes, but settled into an extrovert style sourced from organic shapes.  Designs were resplendent with curves (rather than straight lines) and underscored by incredible, complex detail, much sourced from Spain’s rich architectural heritage.  Modernisme was unleashed on the world during the 1888 Universal Exhibition (World Fair) held in a remodelled Ciutadella Park.  The Exhibition featured the Castle of the Three Dragons, the Arc del Triomf and the more traditional Columbus Monument. (For those interested in history, the Columbus Monument is erected on the site where Columbus set foot in Europe following his first voyage to the Americas.)

In 1878, Antoni Gaudi graduated as an architect and then in 1883 took over design responsibility of La Sagrada Familia.  Of nine buildings listed by UNESCO as World Cultural Heritage, Gaudi is responsible for 7.  His style, even by today’s standards is exuberant, creative and wholly original.
Glory Façade - detail (south side)

Nativity Façade - detail (east side)

Passion Façade - detail (west side)
Our tour included a visit to four of these architectural delights, with a peek inside two of them.  First stop was the most famous, La Sagrada Familia, of dizzying proportions and decoration.  Luckily, we had guide, Marc, and 1½ hours because even though the site is extremely popular, its story is worth the telling and understanding.  A foundation stone was set in 1882 and the complex only opened to the public in 2012, yet the site remains unfinished, funding sourced through visitors & benefactors.  Its design is highly complex, deeply symbolic and a passionate personal expression.  We started at the Nativity façade (finished by Gaudi) moved through the amazing interior, stopped to observe the Passion façade (with controversial sculptures by Josep Maria Subirachs), and finished in the underground vault where a small museum houses models, diagrams and photos.  It is hoped that construction will be completed by 2026, the centenary of Gaudi’s death.
Afternoon light on west side
A new twist on traditional
stained glass windows

Floating above the altar
Internal columns branch like trees
The ceiling, so high above, resembles an underwater coral reef scene

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