Back to the Start: 2016

We sadly bid farewell to Jumping Fish Bay in Greece

The Windjammers have experienced our shortest season yet, cruising in an area with few places for us Aussies to “run & hide” given Schengen’s time limitations of 3 months max.  Still “weather” experiences kept us on our toes too and ensured a modified float plan.  This sadly entailed excluding Southern France (the Mistral consistently blowing with regularity & some ferocity this year) although we managed time in Corsica before taking a familiar route through the Balearics back to Lagos in Portugal.

Discovered style in Barcelona,
architect extraordinaire, Gaudi.

And hunky types in Naples
(Yes, it's Hercules)

Italy’s west coast made good its promise of few anchorages so our travels were essentially moving from marina to marina with longish stops to take in major historical sites.  Somehow, we still never seemed to have sufficient time for our “must do” list.  At least we managed to see (but not climb) some seriously interesting volcanoes and enjoy one or two bottles of local plonk (I'm not sure there's an Italian equivalent for this word).  The history was fascinating, the art incredible, people generally friendly and scenery, especially along the northern coast, quite unlike the “Med” we had grown used to.

The view over La Spezia was too good to miss

So, this blog and photo fest is due for a long Mediterranean lunch break with the possibility of a further delay before the start of next season as our vague plan is to cross back to Trinidad.  This requires avoiding hurricane season (June to Nov) and some big steps to get to a Canaries or Cape Verdes springboard.  So our timings will need to be adjusted and we just may have to experience a winter...brrrrrr!

And Italy kept us very busy;
too much to do, so little time!
Pisa. Is this really a quiet day? 

In summary, the 2016 season started in Preveza, Greece with a very short stop in Sarande, Albania.  Thus began our weather experiences and first change to the float plan… At least the weather gods were kind to us as we slid across to Sicily.  Nicely ensconced in Syracuse, we learned of Italy’s transport shortcomings but managed to make the crossing to Malta for a most enjoyable land break.  

Historically, the Messina Strait has been a sailor’s nightmare so we shouldn’t have been surprised to feel its wrath.  Swordfishing locals though, gave us a farewell salute as WJ3 battled steep waves generated by wind against current - Charybdis at play!.  At least we weren't rowing, like Odysseus, Jason (of the Argonauts) or Aeneas. (This is your history test....)  Then our anchor wanted to stay in Vulcano but after some wrestling and with a much improved weather outlook on offer, we convinced it to join us in crossing to Italy’s west coast to begin the slow crawl northwards. 

Colourful towns, festive moods

We took longish stops in Torre del Greco (Naples area), Rome, and La Spezia (Tuscany) before modifying the float plan again to include Corsica for a few days sailing down its eastern coast. Sardinia's tip provided shelter before striking out for the Balearics and back to Spain. 

With long strides along the Spanish coast we quickly made Gibraltar, where the weather gods again smiled giving us the right winds and tide to sail through notorious Gibraltar Straits.  Another interesting weather system from the far NW (UK) threatened the Atlantic coast but we made Lagos, Portugal before it took its toll.  Tucked up in the marina we hardly even noticed it! 

Our yearly figures confirm yet another distance marathon and come in as follows:

From: Preveza, Greece Lat/Long: 38:57.09N 20:46 .04E  Date/Time: 03/06/16: 1745

To: Lagos, Portugal Lat/Long: 37:06.45N 08:40.27W  Date/Time: 23/09/16: 1045
Time Taken: (this year): 383 hrs  Distance: (this year): 2248.5nm
Distance Total: (since 2008): 18,278.5nm  
Weather: Challenging weather this year, mostly Mistral generated, kept us on our toes
Fastest Speed: We had a mixed bag with some really great sailing weather and some really dreadful conditions too.  But it’s the Med!  And mostly motoring continues at a sedate 6 - 6.5kts.

We will post as plans for 2017 develop, so keep tuned to this space!

And a few stray volcanoes on our way.  A busy year indeed!

Detained on Elba

La Spezia, Italy

The island of Elba was next on our list, so we planned to break the journey mid-way at an anchorage sheltered from prevailing winds.  Despite an adverse current, we made good time with a pleasant southerly pushing us along.  Yes, we even sailed for a few hours!  However, the southerly freshened up in the late afternoon and it became apparent that our anchorage would be less than attractive in the onshore swell.  The Cap’n consulted various weather oracles and declared that despite a forecast late evening change, we could make it to Elba, albeit in the early hours.  There was only 40 miles to go. 

At dusk, with 20nm down and off an aptly named Giglio (actually it means lilies) we experienced a couple of strange events.  Firstly, a large fishing boat was towing another, whilst a small coast guard boat danced around them.  We provided some much needed relief from the tedium obviously, so this occasioned the flashing light and a momentary chase to ensure we were well out of the way.  We didn’t have the VHF radio on, and there was little point anyway given our limited language skills. We wondered what they said to us... 

The next item of interest was a low line of grey cloud hovering in our path.  It looked so low, GS was concerned the mast would touch it – reliving memories of lightning strikes off the US coast.  “Ah,” said the Cap’n, “that would be our front arriving.  Predicted winds from the NW (yes, our direction to Elba, of course) at 10-15kts.”  We also noticed clouds piling up along the coast. 

Passing through the front was fine, the waters disturbed but not challenging.  Breaking free of it however told another story.  Winds built up to 20-25 kts fairly quickly and with a steep swell and current against us, the last miles in trampoline conditions took FOREVER.  GS succumbed in the final hours yet managed, whilst clutching the bucket, to assist our heroic Cap’n furl the main at the mast (the furling line in the cockpit was slipping).  Equipment difficulties  always seem to occur in dreadful conditions!  Finally an anchorage on the south coast of Elba was in site - in the dead of night and two hours later than predicted.  After watching an incredible electrical display from a line of storm cells dotted along the coast, we crashed, without dinner. 

So, what does a red sky a night really mean...a howling gale again tomorrow?
This is our anchorage on Elba

Set the riding sail. 
All hands on deck... now!! 

We spent 3 days locked in Golfo Stella as wind howled over us.  We were spinning like a top on anchor, so had to set up the riding sail.

 Thankfully our trusty anchor held - and so did those on (most) other boats.  

When conditions settled somewhat, the Cap’n took Bruce out for a spin to see the lay of the land.  Despite the number of boats at anchor, there was little civilization (unless your need was for a beach umbrella and sun lounge) and nowhere to go.  

It seems that we had been caught between the Mistrale that blows through the Gulf of Lyon in France (at 35kts) and a Bora (40kts) blowing over Italy from Croatia.  So, rather like Napoleon, we too were detained on Elba.  At least he had a fashionable townhouse, a country villa (furnished with a mistress, naturally), servants and a navy (but only one ship – just like us!).

Not to be outdone, we at least did not suffer quite the same fate as Percy Byce Shelley in 1822.  Sadly, this poet, famous even at the young age of 30, drowned in the Gulf of Spezia area after a storm overtook his sailboat while he was visiting Livorno. His body washed ashore weeks later.

Finally, a brief respite in conditions presented itself, so it was yet another early rise and long day motoring to seek shelter in the expansive harbour and pleasant village of Le Grazie.  This, we decided, was as far north as we planned to go.  The Mistrale had been far too a regular companion of Med France since we started watching forecasts in Naples.  Anchoring in strong winds, in busy, choppy harbours would not be enjoyable.  We would make for Corsica and then on to the Balearics.  After a few days rest and some more sightseeing, it would be –“Spain, (to haulout) here we come!!

•  (We are slightly behind with the blog at this stage and as the plan is to head off first thing for Corsica tomorrow - for a brief interlude - we may not have internet until the Balearics.  If nothing else, the map & tracker will be updated when the opportunity presents itself.  Florence is just more photos of statues and paintings anyway!)

Galloping up the Coast

Porto Turistico di Roma, Ostia, Italy

Originally, our float plan allowed a few days to wallow about the attractive islands off Naples.  Rome called to us however, and to ensure there was time to rest and tour there, WJ3’s nose was headed north for another two long days of motoring.  It was also August, peak holiday season, so we hoped for a spot in the marina that would allow us easy access to Roma!

So, I guess we are not stopping at this one then.  Its even got a castle...sigh!

We did anchor overnight at Ponza, a delightful island just begging to be explored but ….

Ponza's cute main village in the evening light

Ponza's dramatic coastline
(note village at top & yachts at anchor)

So, yet another early morning start, and a fine southerly pushing us along with time even for a bit (4 hours) of sailing, meant we headed into Porto Turistico di Roma at a reasonable hour.  We even had time to gather our wits about us to plan for a 7 night stay from berth #600. 

This marina is quite some complex!  The staff were obliging; the marina itself is part of Rome’s closest beach scene (Ostia Lido) with shops and restaurants dotted along the corso and it’s not too far to find a mini market for some fresh food.  Yes, we even found a 24 hr laundromat at the marina, our first since Greece - heaven!!  So a day at either end of our stay was given over to boat duties leaving 4 days to cram as much as we possibly could of Rome’s best – without wilting in the heat and humidity or tourist crush.  Coffee or lemon gelato would be called on regularly to provide staying power!  The marina is also a stones throw to the south of the famous River Tiber. Perhaps we could dingy up the Tiber rather than take the train?  Anyway, on with Roma, La Dolce Vita then!

Wikipedia Attribution

(Roma, La Dolce Vita is Fellini’s satirical 1960 film.  Most certainly a highlight of a young “arty” misspent youth, was catching up with Fellini’s take on Rome.  Having said that, we did resist the Lonely Planet guide book walk in Fellini’s honour as somehow the city could never be quite the same – and dancing in Trevi fountain will most certainly get you arrested!  Traffic is somewhat tamed, though I doubt the drivers are!  And many streets closed, especially on Sundays, to make way for pedestrians. So the city is alive with ogling tourists, just like us!)

Having a Swell Time

Perhaps we can make a few more small adjustments to Dangar?

Sarande, Albania to Sicily

 

Having finally severed the dock lines at Preveza Marina (with most mechanical things working), we headed north for Sarande, Albania.  Not of course without the obligatory stop at Gouvia on Corfu to fill the fridge and stock the bilges with foods most exotic to the Greek palate - yes, that would be Taco spice mix, tinned coconut milk and Lebanese bread. Not to mention fresh salmon!  It’s not Morrisons (Gibraltar) but "it’s a pretty good"!

We arrived at the Sarande dock with an increasingly nasty swell kicking in from the west.  Although we’d planned a two day stopover in this nice town, GS’s feet never touched ground.  Poor WJ3 was driven against a large concrete dock, eventually losing a guard rail in the battle.  Our fenders did a sterling job though and only one was lost in the line of duty.  Other boats on the dock also rocked and churned, so not much touring time or indeed sleep was had by anyone.  With a large hydrofoil (looking remarkably like a giant cricket) lurching and rolling behind WJ3’s stern, GS popped a travel sick pill and went to bed leaving the Capt to explore yet another variation for his next best (classic cookbook) seller, “Two Minute Noodles For The Sophisticated Crew”.  As you do when the weather’s foul…. 

So, it's goodbye to Gouvia anchorage (on Corfu)

A long last look at that amazing fortress on Corfu

Needless to say, we cut short our stay at Sarande and had to head back to Gouvia to refuel for the big trip ahead.  Just for those sceptics, we had the best day’s sailing in the Med on record (well, on our watch anyway!) for this leg.  All this jigging about meant another slight modification to Plan Z.  Forget visiting the island of Erikoussa, we and our accompanying resident boatyard spiders were now locked into taking a direct line to Sicily, with NO stops.  So we sat it out in Jumping Fish Bay (Voltau) – our favourite “isolated” anchorage in Greece – and waited for a clear weather window.

With one last stop at Jumping Fish Bay

Sunset over Voltau Cove

It was a decent trip with relatively calm seas and mild winds, more or less on the nose all the way.  Two days and two nights of motoring!  And finally, a crossing in the dark of the turbulent, messy swell kicked up by the Messina Straits.  Well, here’s hoping the bow-thruster batteries are fully recharged by now. 

Sailing companions on the way over...



Sunset over Italy.  Only a few hours or so to go now...

Riposo Time

It had to happen…

Time to take a little afternoon nap, unplug hot-wired laptops and devote our energies to other obsessions.  The Cap’n has been duly nagged and has finally started work on his H460 site.  So, if this is your bag then you will find lots of “stories” about our annual & ever-ongoing repair and maintenance schedule.  Just be glad you’re not the one paying the bills. 

Also our vast collection of photos has finally developed all the characteristics of a large and unruly family – so time for taming is now necessary!  Add all this to a spot of very late spring cleaning and you have two candidates, spinning rapidly towards earning an OCD sticker – each. 

This means our very vague float plan is all you are going to get until quite possibly, late May.  So chill out too with a large cocktail Caribbean style (Oh I do so miss those afternoon painkillers), float about in a pool of some kind (I used a tinnie once – sorry Dad!), and drown out birdsong with your snoring!

See you in the spring (err... winter, no wait... summer)

Only in the Caribbean!  BVI from memory...
and drink of the day was a "painkiller"...

Ciao Baby

Three Volcanos & a Bottle of Vino

CIA, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Well, here it is, January and time to think about the what, where & when of this year’s trip away to visit WJ3.  This year it’s all about Italy with a haul out somewhere west of that – possibly Spain.  So there’ll be some overnighting and a big schedule spread over a few short months.  Yes, there’s not many options to escape Schengen this year, so we’ve allowed for a max of 4 months away.  The plan is also rather sparse with fewer anchoring possibilities than Greece.  That said however, we will take advantage of marinas and make longish stops to visit those essential tourist hotspots.  Given that we’ll also be travelling over peak tourist season, it’s a safe bet we’ll not be lining up or making bookings weeks in advance – it will be a case of exploring “undiscovered” Italy.  This worked well in Venice so there’s no reason to fret just yet!  With any luck, we can move with greater speed (meaning spend less time waiting for repairs or the weather to improve) and have more time to find a suitable storage facility for WJ3 this year.  

So, after that long winded introduction, here is a first and rough draft of our sail plan 2016, with times stretched to the max. 


Stage 1: Greece to Malta (3 weeks – June)

Time to splash, bid farewell to hospitable Greece and make a quick “out of country” stop in Albania to ensure WJ3 meets her EU VAT conditions.  Our plan then is dictated by weather - will we coastal hop Italy’s boot or sail directly to Malta…   


Stage 2: Malta to Sicily (2 weeks – June/July)

After a week or so exploring popular Malta, we’ll head over to Sicily and book ourselves into Marina di Ragusa on its southern shore, a very popular wintering spot for fellow cruisers.  From here, we can hire a car and explore Sicily’s rich cultural offerings.  Moody Mt Etna being an essential visit.


Stage 3: Sicily to West Coast Italy (5 weeks – July/August)

Once we’ve ticked off the list of “Things to Do” in Sicily, we’ll head back up the Straits of Messina, take a detour to see Stromboli lit up, then coastal hop along Italy’s west coast with 3 main marina stops -as close as we can afford to get to Naples (Mt Vesuvius, of course), Rome and Pisa (to explore Tuscany & Renaissance Italy).  

Italy - always so dramatic & colourful

Stage 4: Italian & French Riviera (3 weeks – August/September)

We mentioned last year Italians in their designer everything (including yachts) and the west coast of Italy will be no exception – it’s their home after all – but the Rivieras will be exceptional.  It will be a time for us to gawk and smirk but with stratospheric prices on all things I’m guessing we’ll dally modestly but keep moving.  With any luck there’ll be time to do a short coastal walk along the Cinque Terra, locate rich relatives in Monaco (as if) and learn the fine art of food preparation – French style.    

We've coped with lots of visitors before... (St Marks Square, Venice)

Stage 5: Med France to Spain (3 weeks - September)

Then begins the search for WJ3’s winter home for the season!  There’s not a lot of options and our only turistico-ing stop is planned for Barcelona.  We won’t stay too long; Gaudi’s famous Basilica Sagrada Familia might inspire GS into re-renovation mode.   Mind you, that creation too remains unfinished!  If in danger of over-staying our visa, we might have to finish off with a mercy dash to Gibraltar (who knows?).

Valiant Visitors: 

Keep in touch by email if you’d like to catch us.  WJ3’s map and tracker will be updated regularly (with any luck) so that you can see exactly where we are.  We will try to fit in with your plans but sadly are strictly “regulated” by our 90 day visa.  This means we can’t wait anywhere for too long, or indeed change this itinerary too drastically.  (Indeed there are plans to speed it up already!)  Notes on what to bring (and what not to bring) can be found in the updated Visitors Guide.  BYO Chianti & rustic bread….