Free-Wheeling Rome

Rome, Italy.  Touristico Essentials

Given that Rome is spread out, and there is so much to tempt the visitor, we made up our minds to follow history and art rather than fashion and food.  It’s a tough choice indeed, but start somewhere we must, so with a trusty “Lonely Planet Rome” (offering a series of self-guided walks), and a selection of passes** (see info below) we had purchased in hand, we hit the road.   

From the marina, we took a bus to Ostia Lido Station; then a train to San Paolo (the end of the Lido line), changed here for the Metro Line (where the Metro name is Pyramide) then sallied forth into the bowels of Rome to the Metro stop nearest our quarry – a good couple of hours travelling each day and a hearty after breakfast walk along the marina and back to the bus stop to keep these figures in trim. 

Although there are restaurants a-plenty near to the marina, we shopped daily at the 24 hr supermarket opposite the Ostia Lido station.  All we wanted to do when we arrived back was put up our feet and have a recovery beer or two.  Neither of us could be bothered dressing up to go out; indeed our only day eating out was the second on-board work day.  Then, we treated ourselves to a huge bowl of mussels in garlic and wine served with freshly made focaccia followed by very delicious (home-made) pasta with tuna, olives, capers and cherry tomatoes.  A southern Italian dish we were told by the friendly owner.  We wished we had eaten there more often!  Now, what was that about losing weight?



We need to work on the selfie poses, as you can see!

Back to designing that punishing schedule!  With 4 days for touristico-ing we planned to spend a day each given over to:

1. Ancient Rome,
2. The Historical Centre,
3. A day for anything we felt we had missed, and then
4. The Vatican.

This worked in well with our various collection of passes, remembering that the Vatican required times be booked for our visits.  Book a few days earlier to ensure you get the times you want (See below for Omni Office details).

We were also warned about pickpockets, so made sure our backpacks were well secured (not wishing to repeat our Athens experience).  We also avoided illegal and aggressive vendors selling everything from iced water to squidgy things that squeak.  We carried water bottles too, which could be topped up from any one of Rome’s many ancient street fountains. We'll give it a try!

La Dolce Vita (The Sweet Life) in Trevi Fountain.
I wonder if she was just filling her water bottle too?

** Passes:  Not nearly so organised (or generous) as our Venice Card, a three day Roma Pass (€36 each) included only 2 skip-the-ticket-line admissions from 38 choices and 72 hrs unlimited bus & train transport.  We later added a one day Omni Pass for the Vatican (€50 for skip-the-line St Peters & the Vatican Museum & one round of the Omni Bus) and purchased a separate 24 hr transport travel pass (€7 each) to cover bus and train for our last day.  All are well worth it, especially when you see the lines waiting (in the sun & for hours) for admission tickets at popular spots.  The Roma Pass did offer reasonable discounts for the other 36 choices; our entry to the Museo Altemps was only €7 for both.

The only Omni Office (look for the yellow windows) we could find was on the left of St Peters Piazza (as you face it).  They also sell a combined 3 day Omni & Roma Pass but you are limited then to 3 days.  Roma Tourist Information Offices did not know anything about the Vatican.  “It’s a separate country!” they said bluntly.  Be warned too, that the Omni Bus really connects the dots between major churches spread over Rome - it's not really a sightseeing jaunt, unless you want to overdose on churches that is.  I gave up trying to find an on-board audio guide on the bus that worked, so just relaxed and enjoyed the drive through the city highlights instead!

Galloping up the Coast

Porto Turistico di Roma, Ostia, Italy

Originally, our float plan allowed a few days to wallow about the attractive islands off Naples.  Rome called to us however, and to ensure there was time to rest and tour there, WJ3’s nose was headed north for another two long days of motoring.  It was also August, peak holiday season, so we hoped for a spot in the marina that would allow us easy access to Roma!

So, I guess we are not stopping at this one then.  Its even got a castle...sigh!

We did anchor overnight at Ponza, a delightful island just begging to be explored but ….

Ponza's cute main village in the evening light

Ponza's dramatic coastline
(note village at top & yachts at anchor)

So, yet another early morning start, and a fine southerly pushing us along with time even for a bit (4 hours) of sailing, meant we headed into Porto Turistico di Roma at a reasonable hour.  We even had time to gather our wits about us to plan for a 7 night stay from berth #600. 

This marina is quite some complex!  The staff were obliging; the marina itself is part of Rome’s closest beach scene (Ostia Lido) with shops and restaurants dotted along the corso and it’s not too far to find a mini market for some fresh food.  Yes, we even found a 24 hr laundromat at the marina, our first since Greece - heaven!!  So a day at either end of our stay was given over to boat duties leaving 4 days to cram as much as we possibly could of Rome’s best – without wilting in the heat and humidity or tourist crush.  Coffee or lemon gelato would be called on regularly to provide staying power!  The marina is also a stones throw to the south of the famous River Tiber. Perhaps we could dingy up the Tiber rather than take the train?  Anyway, on with Roma, La Dolce Vita then!

Wikipedia Attribution

(Roma, La Dolce Vita is Fellini’s satirical 1960 film.  Most certainly a highlight of a young “arty” misspent youth, was catching up with Fellini’s take on Rome.  Having said that, we did resist the Lonely Planet guide book walk in Fellini’s honour as somehow the city could never be quite the same – and dancing in Trevi fountain will most certainly get you arrested!  Traffic is somewhat tamed, though I doubt the drivers are!  And many streets closed, especially on Sundays, to make way for pedestrians. So the city is alive with ogling tourists, just like us!)