Trolley Honks, Cape May

Emlen Physic House, Cape May

European discovery of Cape May can be traced back to Henry Hudson who became ensnared in those nasty shoals off the Cape in 1605.  Later, it was a convenient home for seafarers, many of whom were made wealthy from whaling excursions, literally just off the coast.  It was a lonely life for their families and English colonists however until the 1800’s when Cape May became a popular coastal resort, particularly for those escaping yellow fever.  Even though it was some 3 days hard travel from New York, many of the wealthiest families had summer homes or “cottages” built to take advantage of sandy beaches, calm Atlantic waters and clear air. 

The central district of town is brimming with this legacy and there has been quite some effort taken to conserve its charms, including conferring status as a National Historic Landmark.  The Motleys climbed aboard a trolley tour that included historical information on the area, including Cape May’s other claim to fame as one of the most haunted towns in the world.  We finished with a tour through one of these graceful Victorian mansions. 

Cute Gingerbread

The Emlen Physick Estate was built in 1879 for Doctor Physick and his family.  His architect was Frank Furness whose style and influence is evident in the work of one of his students, Frank Lloyd Wright. The house, whilst grand, does not include gingerbread architectural features, very popular at the time.  No photos were allowed to be taken inside on our tour (as usual but no notes were included either). 

Still it was a remarkable glimpse into life in Cape May’s social elite and as many of the Doctor’s own possessions have been recovered, it seemed less like a museum piece – we saw how it was rather than how it was thought to be.  We did wonder how the Doc’s mother managed to squeeze her “dainty” toes into some amazingly slender boots though.  And we scorn the once traditional Asian practice of foot binding!    



Call that a Beach _ so where's the surf?

Washington Street has been turned into a pedestrian mall lined with shops brimming with touristy ephemera and eateries.  It is of course, high season, and tourists cram every shop.  There’s a huge line up for our recommended cafe so we find somewhere else and continue to be amazed at what passes as high quality food.  

 

Lounging at the beach was not for the Motleys either.  Described as world-class, we were wondering which world, when the attendant asked for $5 each for beach access (a daily fee). At least the beaches and boardwalk have been protected from corporate creep where posh hotel chains line the waterfront (and own out to the high water mark), restricting views over the water to those who can’t afford it.    

Still and all, the Motley’s enjoyed their brief stay in historic Cape May.  GS resisted the urge to buy an antique quilt while the boys drooled over a perfectly restored T Model Ford.  Maybe next time!