Looking for Bears

Zagori, Greece

Triple Span Packhorse Bridge, Central Zagori

With WJ3 snug in Preveza Marina, we planned a trip into the northern mountains.  Our car, a bright red roller skate, had a little more determination than a Panda; thankfully, because the hills were fairly serious.  Katara Pass skims clouds at a mere 1694m and Metsovo, our turn off to Meteora, just 2300m.

Off we set with only a teensy Rough Guide map to show us the way.  It’s impossible it seems to buy road maps – in Greek let alone English - so we were off on a wing and a prayer.  Luckily we were heading for Meteora, land of mountain top monasteries, so someone must have heard us.  First planned stop however was Zagori country in the foothills of the Pindos Mountains.  We took the road to Ioannina, a winding but interesting trip passing through pretty farmlands, trout ponds perched on the edge of fast flowing rivers, shadowy glades and non-descript villages – a little worse for wear. 

Ioannina is surprisingly a large and bustling city; once the capital of Ali Pasha, now the realm of university students and expert double-parkers.  The traffic seems to flow like treacle through the frenetic activity and somehow in the confusion, we found ourselves centre stage.  The remnants of an Ottoman bazaar (with attractive silver shops!) to our left and Ali Pasha’s lump of a fort (Kastro) to the right!  All of course set with a beautiful backdrop of Lake Pamvotis and high mountains behind.  There was no time to stop however, as we had no idea what Zagori would hold for us and wanted to be in Meteora before dark.

Small Bridge with Chapel & goats

The most remarkable of the bridges we saw

Our luck held as we headed north and a faded sign pointing to the Central Zagori revealed itself in the roadside shrubbery.  Better still, to an Information Point!  Even better, it was open when we arrived!  A helpful Park Ranger gave us loads of brochures & maps and, given the time we had to drive the “country roads”, a plan to see the best we could in the time available.  We had come for the view of Vikos Gorge, villages of stone mansions set in rugged landscapes (where we should have stayed an extra night!) and the highly romantic packhorse bridges.

Triple Span hidden in the ravine
is larger than it looks

Under instruction, we set off in the direction of Koukouli & Kipi, dodging sleepy sheep dogs, to find our bridges.  Our fist was a tiny one span bridge with a small chapel to one side.  Goat bells tinkled nearby adding bucolic charm to the setting. 

These bridges, generally named after their wealthy sponsors, provided villagers a means of travel and trade with the outside world.  The landscape is so rugged, that mules were the vehicle of choice and bridges were built specifically for this traffic. Sadly, construction was a closely guarded secret held by the men who built them and the art now lost.  

Having discovered 3 bridges, we made for Monodendri Village and beyond, the Oxia lookout above Vikos Gorge.  The lookout is something of a narrow ledge, hardly room for half dozen gawkers to perch over a one way trip straight to the bowels of the earth.  We added to the pile of name stones at a little shrine hidden in the rocks nearby and quickly left before the rain set in. 

Vikos Gorge in cloud & rain

Our first "selfie" at the Gorge

Tiny shrine at the Vikos Gorge viewing point, Oxia.

Regrouping in the atmospheric Monodendri with coffee and pastries, we scouted round for a museum and monastery where the views down the Gorge from its balconies are said to be spectacular.  Signage was not good and besides, the oncoming rain made us jittery, so we headed back down to the Ioannina ring road and made for the Via Egnatia Expressway (A2). 

Stone Forest, Oxia

Having traversed some of these minor roads, one can only but appreciate the expressway.  For €2.40, at 130kph and through vast numbers of tunnels, we made short work of the mountainous terrain.  At times we felt we were digging for China, but here they say "Australia", so I guess it’s not all that bad.  The turnoff to Meteora and our village accommodation (Kastraki) meant another hour of downhill winding roads but we arrived, sense of humours intact and in time for sundowners.  Our B&B - a traditional cottage, veiled by a pink sunset at the foot of some jaw-dropping rocks!

Monodendri with view over the Vikos Gorge
(Is that the monastery we couldn't find?)