Alone in the Med…Amazing!

Orikum Marina. Vlore

Early Morning at Orikum Marina

 

Early next morning, we headed north along a stunning coastline in calm, settled seas, amusing ourselves with interesting facts provided by our 777 Pilot (a cruising guide):

• Jale Beach - once a summer resort for politicians (well, they do work very hard and deserve some compensation) now converted to a bustling tourist resort.  Ahhh, the irony!

Llogara Pass

 

• The Llogara Pass “divides” Greek culture from the Illyrian.  This area is also where the Adriatic and Ionian Seas separate; depths increase, currents, winds and navigation change.  Mountains are closer to the sea and the area is wild and virtually unsettled.  We are told that katabatic winds can be incredibly fierce. 
• Llogara Pass (national park) was once crossed by Julius Caesar (48BC) and his army in hot pursuit of Pompey. 
• The current road for the Llogara Pass was built by the Alpini (Italian Army Mountain Corps) in the 1930’s.  A mule was used to determine the position of the road – relying on natural instinct, of course.  (Is it true?  Who knows, but it makes for a terrific few hours of idle chit chat.)

 

 

• Haxhi Aliu Cave, a natural buttressed cathedral vault.  Stunningly high and narrow, it is one of many caves that dot the coastline.  It also looks like something out of a James Bond movie.

Bunkers & Agaves

• Vlore Bay is littered with shipwrecks and the Karaburum Promontory is covered in concrete bunkers.  It looks as if an invasion of aliens (holding shares in concrete manufacturing companies) has set foot here.  Perhaps it’s another Bermuda-type Triangle? (There are supposed to be some 500,000 of these 2 person bunkers dotted along the coast.  Together with plantings of thorny agaves, nature's barbed wire, it’s a formidable setting with those steep, wild mountains behind.)

More Brides

Next stop, Orikum Marina tucked up deep in a large bay, not far from Vlore.  Like Saranda, this is a busy resort area and the marina is the only one along Albania’s coastline.   We settled in for our usual 3 nights (it’s hardly worth the effort of setting up for less!).  The marina is fairly isolated, with just a few fishermen and tourists about. 

 

Nearby is another military base, said to have the hulks of a few rotting Russian submarines.  But we didn’t go near there, being somewhat shy after Palermos…  Orikum Lake or Pasha Liman lagoon is the site of ancient Greek and Roman ruins but it is not generally open to the public.  Interestingly, Ali Pasha is said to be buried here, although similar claims are made for his citadel in Ioannina (Greece).

(For those cruisers interested:  At Orikum Marina we had power, non-potable water (good to wash the boat), decent hot showers & toilet facilities and very friendly staff.   The nearest mini-marts were in Orikum village, 1-1.5km away.  Better to hire a car if you plan to travel, although the marina may assist.   It was worth a stop and there were other places of historic significance to visit nearby eg Apollonia or Berat if you have transport.  Capt Irene Cop offers touristic and port services from Orikum Marina.  Contact details on her web site Sail Albania.)