The Last Frontier

Ksamil, Albania

Sunset over Ksamil Islands (with Corfu in distance)

This peaceful view of Ksamil does not show how busy it is.
(Not quite sure what the Capt is doing.  Hugging his beloved??)

At this point in our journey north, we decided not to continue on to Montenegro or even the 70 nm to Durres.  Durres offers a major commercial port, no facilities for yachts; so rather than nervously squeeze WJ3 on a large dock between freighters and fishing boats, we decided to head back to Saranda and Greece.  Not before spending a few pleasant days anchored off Ksamil Islands, near the Butrint area!  Here we weathered a nasty southerly (35kts), dragged on our anchor twice, were surrounded daily by pedlos and curious tourists (more swimmers!) and finally, watched movies during a day of pouring rain.  WJ3 (and both of us) smelt like a wet dog in the following day’s strong, humid sunshine but at least she had a good wash down – the first since Marmaris!

Passing traffic...note grey skies

Fisherman at work

We cleared out of Saranda easily, again thanks to Agim Zholi, before heading back to Greece.  But not before learning that policemen really do carry Kalashnikovs.  (Don’t head off to the dock bathroom in the middle of the night or take a shortcut back to the boat, without making yourself known to security personnel!) 

View back to Saranda, Albania

Cruisers notes:

We were able to fill our water tanks at the dock in Saranda.  Summer restrictions did exist eg mornings from 9-12ish only with low pressure and we had competition for access to the taps with the ferries and other cruisers who only overnighted at the dock.  Agim could arrange fuel at the dock via mini-tanker and laundry services.  Having said that we were glad to have fuelled-up in Greece for no reason other than convenience.  There is a shower & toilet inside the ferry terminal but as the building was often locked (and the water heater needed 20 mins to warm up) we, like most, stayed on board.  The dock is very secure. Just ask the Cap'n...  Saranda town is walking distance with nice restaurants and well-stocked supermarkets. 

During our stay we met Captain Irene Cop, who runs Albania’s only sail charter, Sail Albania.  She has vast knowledge and practical experience of cruising the Albanian coast and keeps a great web site with notes on each port & more.  Cruiser’s Wiki and Noonsite offer more information, apart from the detailed 777 & basics in the Adriatic Pilot too.

From: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.263N 20:00.203E Date/Time: 20/08/14: 1300

To: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.278N 20:00.210E Date/Time: 5/09/14: 1500
Time Taken: 137nm (22hrs) Distance (this year): 1117.5nm (188.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14450.5nm   Weather: Clear skies, calm seas & warm-hot
Fastest Speed: We are motoring our way around the Med – just like everyone else!