The Last Frontier

Ksamil, Albania

Sunset over Ksamil Islands (with Corfu in distance)

This peaceful view of Ksamil does not show how busy it is.
(Not quite sure what the Capt is doing.  Hugging his beloved??)

At this point in our journey north, we decided not to continue on to Montenegro or even the 70 nm to Durres.  Durres offers a major commercial port, no facilities for yachts; so rather than nervously squeeze WJ3 on a large dock between freighters and fishing boats, we decided to head back to Saranda and Greece.  Not before spending a few pleasant days anchored off Ksamil Islands, near the Butrint area!  Here we weathered a nasty southerly (35kts), dragged on our anchor twice, were surrounded daily by pedlos and curious tourists (more swimmers!) and finally, watched movies during a day of pouring rain.  WJ3 (and both of us) smelt like a wet dog in the following day’s strong, humid sunshine but at least she had a good wash down – the first since Marmaris!

Passing traffic...note grey skies

Fisherman at work

We cleared out of Saranda easily, again thanks to Agim Zholi, before heading back to Greece.  But not before learning that policemen really do carry Kalashnikovs.  (Don’t head off to the dock bathroom in the middle of the night or take a shortcut back to the boat, without making yourself known to security personnel!) 

View back to Saranda, Albania

Cruisers notes:

We were able to fill our water tanks at the dock in Saranda.  Summer restrictions did exist eg mornings from 9-12ish only with low pressure and we had competition for access to the taps with the ferries and other cruisers who only overnighted at the dock.  Agim could arrange fuel at the dock via mini-tanker and laundry services.  Having said that we were glad to have fuelled-up in Greece for no reason other than convenience.  There is a shower & toilet inside the ferry terminal but as the building was often locked (and the water heater needed 20 mins to warm up) we, like most, stayed on board.  The dock is very secure. Just ask the Cap'n...  Saranda town is walking distance with nice restaurants and well-stocked supermarkets. 

During our stay we met Captain Irene Cop, who runs Albania’s only sail charter, Sail Albania.  She has vast knowledge and practical experience of cruising the Albanian coast and keeps a great web site with notes on each port & more.  Cruiser’s Wiki and Noonsite offer more information, apart from the detailed 777 & basics in the Adriatic Pilot too.

From: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.263N 20:00.203E Date/Time: 20/08/14: 1300

To: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.278N 20:00.210E Date/Time: 5/09/14: 1500
Time Taken: 137nm (22hrs) Distance (this year): 1117.5nm (188.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14450.5nm   Weather: Clear skies, calm seas & warm-hot
Fastest Speed: We are motoring our way around the Med – just like everyone else!

Double Vision: World Heritage (Part 2)

Sarandë, Albania

After another stop for coffee (to keep us awake after that generous lunch I suspect) we stopped at the Blue Eye spring to admire waters that both the Cap’n & George likened to the crystal clear waters of Mt Gambier (SA).  

Fortunately, the reserve has been preserved, in as much as it was used as a rest facility by Albania’s communist elite, and so off-limits to the general public for many years.  Not so now – it’s busy in summer!  The spring itself is said to be very deep (45-50m) and we heard of divers who had swum into karst caves below it.  Had we more time and snorkelling gear, I think we’d have lost our two intrepid travellers downstream. 

The Cap'n was having difficulty focusing on our group...

View out to the dam

 

Fran waving over the clear, turquoise waters

Butrint Beauty

Last stop of the day was Butrint, yet another UNESCO World Heritage site (since 1995).  The ancient city of Butrint is the largest and best preserved archaeological site in Albania. 

Legend has it that settlement dates from ancient times by exiles from Troy.  It was named Buthrotum (wounded ox) after a sacrificial offering managed, against the odds, to swim to shore.  This mythology is further reflected in the cyclopean walls and celebrated “Lion Gate”. 

We started our hike round the extensive grounds covering:

Hellenistic ruins: the Asclepion, an ancient treatment centre (BC 4^th c), & Theatre (BC 3^rd c);

Roman ruins of a very prosperous city:  the Forum, roman baths, the triconch Palace;

The mosaic floor is kept safe from rising salt water by this covering of sand

Byzantine ecclesiastical ruins: the Baptistery with its amazing intact mosaic floor (now covered by sand to preserve it), the Great Basilica;

 Norman ruins: fortified walls running down to the lagoon; and

Venetian ruins: Tower, Venetian castle (13^th c) built over on the town’s Acropolis.  The castle is now home to a museum of objects found on the site. (Butrint web site is a little cumbersome but interesting.)

Butrint's Lagoon at dusk

We drove home through Ksamil, another buzzing seaside resort town along the Albanian coast.  We were able to admire spectacular coastal views before arriving back at Saranda, in time for the evening “rush” hour – Saranda with its party lights on!