Lickety Split

Preveza, Greece.  Just in time for the weather…

So, here we sit back in Preveza with cleaning rags in our hands doing long promised chores and waiting for haul out.  So where did that cruising year go?  It seems only yesterday that we met with our Dangar Island neighbours, June & Paul, as they cruised through this area on their way south for the season.

Oh, look!  That cute cruise ship is back in Preveza

We’d left Kotor early and made for Bar to check out and leave, well, strand really, JKip in time for his transfer home.  WJ3 turned her nose south and made a relatively uneventful overnighter to Saranda in Albania.  Here we rested for a couple of nights, got up close and personal with the famed Italian temperament at the dock and ate delightful seafood dinners so cheaply you just wonder how they do it!  Having left Montenegro after a tax-free fuel mix-up (with no resulting fuel for us), we arrived in Saranda on the smell of an oily rag.  Agim, our ever-friendly agent, arranged for a tanker for us and the Riva docked next door.  Somehow, totally unawares, the Riva owner managed to flood gallons of diesel into the bay.  Catastrophe averted by merely ignoring it!  And don’t forget to only scrub your own boat down….

After leaving Saranda we managed a little sailing until, in the lee of Corfu, the winds just died.  We hugged the Albanian coast until it became Greece and bobbed southward until some 11 hours later, arrived in Preveza - a current against us most of the way.

Although I promised not to post up any more haul out photos,
we had to include this one with Aktio's new travel-lift.  Smart, hey!

Heat wave conditions continue and we are now, aside from totally over it, under 2 vast awnings trying to protect WJ3's decks from overheating and cooking us at night in our little cabin.  The sunbrella awning (made for tropical Caribbean weather) also keeps the rain off.  Handy, given that since being back we’ve had evening storms with amazing regularity, some quite wild.  

These storms have had victims and one limped into the Aktio yard a few days ago – sadly a Hunter with ½ a rudder, a twisted prop and damaged keel.  The anchor had failed to hold and the boat was swept back onto a rocky shore.  A reminder for us never to take anything for granted!

The yellow trailer still gets to tuck WJ3 into bed though

In a few days’ time we’ll be winging our way over the Baltic Sea – for a little boatless touring with daily weather considerations being set to “umbrella or not” level.  Sounds like fun and we’ll keep you posted!

(Rather than wax lyrical about the current cleaning regime, we will try to tame the hodge-podge of photos from this year.  With any luck, some may even be posted up before we depart for this final leg of our trip!  For annual cruising statistics, you will have to wait a little longer...)

The Last Frontier

Ksamil, Albania

Sunset over Ksamil Islands (with Corfu in distance)

This peaceful view of Ksamil does not show how busy it is.
(Not quite sure what the Capt is doing.  Hugging his beloved??)

At this point in our journey north, we decided not to continue on to Montenegro or even the 70 nm to Durres.  Durres offers a major commercial port, no facilities for yachts; so rather than nervously squeeze WJ3 on a large dock between freighters and fishing boats, we decided to head back to Saranda and Greece.  Not before spending a few pleasant days anchored off Ksamil Islands, near the Butrint area!  Here we weathered a nasty southerly (35kts), dragged on our anchor twice, were surrounded daily by pedlos and curious tourists (more swimmers!) and finally, watched movies during a day of pouring rain.  WJ3 (and both of us) smelt like a wet dog in the following day’s strong, humid sunshine but at least she had a good wash down – the first since Marmaris!

Passing traffic...note grey skies

Fisherman at work

We cleared out of Saranda easily, again thanks to Agim Zholi, before heading back to Greece.  But not before learning that policemen really do carry Kalashnikovs.  (Don’t head off to the dock bathroom in the middle of the night or take a shortcut back to the boat, without making yourself known to security personnel!) 

View back to Saranda, Albania

Cruisers notes:

We were able to fill our water tanks at the dock in Saranda.  Summer restrictions did exist eg mornings from 9-12ish only with low pressure and we had competition for access to the taps with the ferries and other cruisers who only overnighted at the dock.  Agim could arrange fuel at the dock via mini-tanker and laundry services.  Having said that we were glad to have fuelled-up in Greece for no reason other than convenience.  There is a shower & toilet inside the ferry terminal but as the building was often locked (and the water heater needed 20 mins to warm up) we, like most, stayed on board.  The dock is very secure. Just ask the Cap'n...  Saranda town is walking distance with nice restaurants and well-stocked supermarkets. 

During our stay we met Captain Irene Cop, who runs Albania’s only sail charter, Sail Albania.  She has vast knowledge and practical experience of cruising the Albanian coast and keeps a great web site with notes on each port & more.  Cruiser’s Wiki and Noonsite offer more information, apart from the detailed 777 & basics in the Adriatic Pilot too.

From: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.263N 20:00.203E Date/Time: 20/08/14: 1300

To: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.278N 20:00.210E Date/Time: 5/09/14: 1500
Time Taken: 137nm (22hrs) Distance (this year): 1117.5nm (188.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14450.5nm   Weather: Clear skies, calm seas & warm-hot
Fastest Speed: We are motoring our way around the Med – just like everyone else!

Dick Tracey Saves the Day

Porto Palermos, Albania

Saranda Harbour - on a busy day

We left Saranda quite early even though we only had a few miles to cover to Palermos.  The Saranda harbour milieu was up to usual standard with ferries and hydrofoils coming and going; a small cruise ship about to dock and reckless pedlos darting between them all.  

Free of the inner harbour we started to relax – a mistake of course!  A lone distance swimmer (with a dark blue bathing cap, doh!) hadn’t noticed he was on a collision course with WJ3.  GS saw him at the last minute, swore like a trooper and quickly adjusted a course away from this suicidal idiot.  He was quite likely blinded afterwards by her red-eyed, laser stare.  

So, our conversation to Palermos thereafter, turned to considering the delights of Albanian prison foods and leniency in visiting hours for seniors.  How this swimmer missed becoming fish food in our prop, a cruise ship’s prop or under a hydrofoil’s fin is anyone’s guess.  It might have been a bit gory if a pedlo had got him though!  

Sitting Ducks?  Porto Palermos

Our trip up the coast was less eventful.  The weather was mild, seas calm with very little boat traffic, even fishing boats.  We motored in quite close to shore as the water is clear, clean and deep; the mountains overhead just seem to tumble into the seas.  

Palermos is one of the few “storm refuges” along the coast and we had our sights set on visiting Ali Pasha’s castle positioned on a small promontory in the middle of the bay.  A motor boat was leaving as we arrived and another yacht was tied to a rather formidable, if not neglected, pier.  A nice young man from the taverna took our lines and helped us settle in.  The small beach near the pier was well established, if not remote, with a variety of mobile homes, beach huts and even a café.  A few small tinnies flitted round.  It seemed like a nice place to spend a few days.

At this point of course, our day continued a pear shaped, downhill track.  We were aware that a military base was to the north…..  The Italians had not long set sail before we heard the unmistakable roar of a diesel engine.  Sure enough, the Coast Guard paid us a visit.  We were advised the pier was military property (even though the area is designated part of tourism & culture) and we were to leave now.  Had we not had engine problems, we might not have been given permission to stay.  We left very early next morning though….

Meanwhile, we had a pleasant swim, helped another couple of boats to tie alongside, took our dinner at the little restaurant up the hill (with very nice local foods) and most certainly visited Ali Pasha’s little fort.  Just on dusk, we watched the Dick Tracy team return to base with nary a glance in our direction.

 

View of the small "resort".  Most of the derelict buildings
were stuffed to the gunnels with fodder for local goats

Ali Pasha Tepelena (1740-1822), the “Lion of Yannina*” is one of local history’s curious characters who managed, under the Ottoman Sultan’s nose, to carve out an independent  territory for himself that covered most of Albania and western Greece.  At once a heroic rebel, a gifted & fearless general and an ambitious despot, he had a passionate yet brutal flair for controlling his Christian subjects yet attacking with impunity the Ottoman supporters with whom he aligned himself as necessary. 

His brutality is legendary, reinforced by writings of Lord Byron, who visited him in his “splendid court” in 1809.  The cells of Ali Pasha’s torture chambers must still ring with the screams of tormented souls.  Not that he was alone in inflicting cruel punishments – in context historically it did seem rather de rigueur.  And of course, the cruising Motley's could always recommend harbour swimming, on a busy day, as an alternate option.

Ali Pasha's main forts/castles/residences were Tepelena, Gjirokastra and Ioannina. Read more about Ali Pasha in Wiki /on the net.)

* Yannina is Ioannina in Greece

Double Vision: World Heritage (Part 2)

Sarandë, Albania

After another stop for coffee (to keep us awake after that generous lunch I suspect) we stopped at the Blue Eye spring to admire waters that both the Cap’n & George likened to the crystal clear waters of Mt Gambier (SA).  

Fortunately, the reserve has been preserved, in as much as it was used as a rest facility by Albania’s communist elite, and so off-limits to the general public for many years.  Not so now – it’s busy in summer!  The spring itself is said to be very deep (45-50m) and we heard of divers who had swum into karst caves below it.  Had we more time and snorkelling gear, I think we’d have lost our two intrepid travellers downstream. 

The Cap'n was having difficulty focusing on our group...

View out to the dam

 

Fran waving over the clear, turquoise waters

Butrint Beauty

Last stop of the day was Butrint, yet another UNESCO World Heritage site (since 1995).  The ancient city of Butrint is the largest and best preserved archaeological site in Albania. 

Legend has it that settlement dates from ancient times by exiles from Troy.  It was named Buthrotum (wounded ox) after a sacrificial offering managed, against the odds, to swim to shore.  This mythology is further reflected in the cyclopean walls and celebrated “Lion Gate”. 

We started our hike round the extensive grounds covering:

Hellenistic ruins: the Asclepion, an ancient treatment centre (BC 4^th c), & Theatre (BC 3^rd c);

Roman ruins of a very prosperous city:  the Forum, roman baths, the triconch Palace;

The mosaic floor is kept safe from rising salt water by this covering of sand

Byzantine ecclesiastical ruins: the Baptistery with its amazing intact mosaic floor (now covered by sand to preserve it), the Great Basilica;

 Norman ruins: fortified walls running down to the lagoon; and

Venetian ruins: Tower, Venetian castle (13^th c) built over on the town’s Acropolis.  The castle is now home to a museum of objects found on the site. (Butrint web site is a little cumbersome but interesting.)

Butrint's Lagoon at dusk

We drove home through Ksamil, another buzzing seaside resort town along the Albanian coast.  We were able to admire spectacular coastal views before arriving back at Saranda, in time for the evening “rush” hour – Saranda with its party lights on!   

Double Vision: World Heritage (Part 1)

Sarandë, Albania

We knew little of Albania’s history and attractions, so together with George & Fran, we set off in the hands of very knowledgeable guide, Demir Kroi for a long but worthwhile day, exploring Saranda.

 

Our first discovery was imposing Lekuresi Castle (circa 1537) and bunker system that crowns a hill above Sarandë.  It is now a restaurant with amazing views over the Ionian Sea, Albanian coast and Greek Islands.  Demir pointed out across the Pass of Six, the (early Christian) Forty Saints Monastery, after which Saranda is named.

Solid outer walls_Lekuresi Castle (1537)

 

Interesting remnants of frescoes on Lekursi Castle walls

Bundled into the back of a large Mercedes, we settled in for the long drive to Gjirokastra.  Built into a hillside, it is the site of an imposing Ottoman settlement – a robust fortress (13^th c), distinctive tower houses built by wealthy landowners, narrow cobbled streets of the old town and a busy tourist bazaar.  Gjirokastra has been a UNESCO World Heritage town since 2004 and slowly, restorations are underway, particularly of some of the grand old mansions. 

A castle to be reckoned with

Little Italian tank built by Fiat

Brides having photos taken

One of these striking family homes was the birthplace of Communist Dictator, Enver Hoxha, that has been set up as an ethnographic museum.  Demir showed us though and explained how large families (30 or more) would have traditionally lived in various rooms.  Family members slept on mattresses rather like futons, which were put away during the day, giving rooms multiple functions.  The concept of a global village enclosed by a web of trade routes is certainly not new then.

Birthplace of Enver Hoxha, now a museum

Family dining room

Whilst there, we stopped to have a traditional Albanian meal.  Our table positively groaned under the weight of tasting plates filled with grilled meats, veggies, yoghurt, cheeses and salad.  Like most Med countries, lunch is a long and generous affair, meant for family time and relaxing in the heat of the day.  Dinner is never taken before 8pm - after the evening constitutional, of course!  We haven’t as yet managed to keep awake long enough to find out when people actually retire for the night but dance clubs, bars and discos are most certainly pumping out music until the wee hours.

Side-Stepping into Albania

Saranda, Albania

Finally – anchors aweigh and dock lines released!  Despite our destination only being 14nm from Corfu, it seemed tough to move on from a most seductive Greece.  But, here we are at last, dockside in Saranda, Albania’s “Riviera”, with everyone else – ferries, mini cruise ships, fishing boats and all sorts of (mostly Italian) pleasure craft.  Oddly enough, our dock lines were taken by Aussies (Zarafet) who had not long arrived. 

Saranda sits tucked in the base of a bay at the foot of high, parched mountains.  The whole country it seems is like this.  However scattered through are vast fertile valleys with everlasting freshwater springs.  Oil and water are Albania’s natural commodities.

Saranda viewed from Lekursi Castle

Like most nations in the Med, Albania has an early history beset by strife and turbulence.  It fared no better during the World Wars, eventually finding itself a closed country under firm Communist rule.  Since 1991, it has edged towards democratic governance and more recently, applied for EU membership.  Whilst there is limited infrastructure for visiting yachts (and assurances that off-shore minefields really are cleared), it seems impossible to consider where Greece ends and Albania begins.  In Saranda, beaches are busy, restaurants full and lots of people are enjoying their summer holidays.  As we all do.

(Why are we here?  Well, aside from exploring countries quite different to those in our own (Asia Pacific) region, Albania is not yet EU.  This means we have stopped the dreaded Schengen (for us) and EU VAT (WJ3) clocks; albeit for a few days/weeks without the madness of having to return to Turkey, make for Egypt, Tunisia or Morocco.  One of the requirements for entry into Albania is that we must appoint an agent.  For a fee, they undertake the laborious task of completing paperwork, having it stamped off by various departments and translating officialdom for us.  Agim Zholi came highly recommended and he became our friendly source of all things Sarande.  As you can see, life is not without its challenges, even in the marvellous Med!) 

 

From: Corfu, Greece Lat/Long: 39:36.873N 19:55.603E Date/Time: 17/08/14: 1155
To: Sarande, Albania Lat/Long: 39:52.263N 20:00.203E Date/Time: 20/08/14: 1300
Time Taken: 21nm (3.5hrs) Distance (this year): 980.5nm (166.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 14313.5nm   Weather: Calm; good protection in Saranda at this time of year at the town commercial dock
Fastest Speed: Averaging 6-6.5kts – under the iron horse again…

Lekursi Castle from our dock