Meteora, Greece
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| This is Meteora. Oh, WOW! |
Next morning, refreshed,
we were picked up from our Kastraki B&B by tour group, Visit Meteora.
Given our schedule (limited time & still no map) and the fact that this tour included
visits to 2 monasteries as well as a notable prehistoric cave, and then had us
back in time for lunch, we readily signed up. (Also it let's the Cap'n admire the scenery too, rather than concentrate on sharing Greek roads with "enthusiastic" Greek drivers.) Warning: photo overload ahead!
We started
with a stop at two rocky outcrops where the first monastic settlements (10th
c) were made. From the small chapel at
the base of Doupiani, we were able to glimpse numerous caves that became
“homes” for hermits and in later years, in a more organised capacity,
monasteries. Across from our vantage
point, we could see the cave-shrine of St George. Each year young men
“climb” to this cave and replace votive scarves kept there to bring the village good fortune.
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| Great Monastery of Meteora |
First stop
was the Monastery of Great Meteoron, (1387-1388) built by St. Athanasios. It is certainly the most inspiring and
highest placed at 615m. From below, you
could only wonder at the determination and achievement of these monks (and
supporting villagers) who scaled such sheer walls to bring building materials
and daily supplies.
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| Some of the frescoes outside the church |
We easily climbed
a stone stairway, not quite so giddy as a net winched from a platform above, to
enter the Monastery. A number of rooms
were set out; kitchens, workshops, storage cellar and crypt (with bones) attest
to the rigours of a life led by these monks.
A viewing platform perched on the edge of the Platys Lithos (Broad Rock)
gave us chills, but we understood the necessity for preservation of life in
dangerous times. The highlight, aside
from a small museum, was the beautiful cross-in-square church decorated from
floor to ceiling with vivid frescoes.
Those in the narthex were rather grisly (such is the life of a martyr)
but inside it was ablaze in celebration of Christianity. (A tour guide, not ours, mentioned El Greco, but this needs a little research yet).
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| Views to die for... |
Back on the
bus, we stopped at a number of viewpoints to hear about (and take photos of)
the other monasteries, including a “jail” cave, even more austere, where
naughty monks were sent to spend time in repentance. At one time there were some 24 monasteries &
hermitages in the area but now, sadly there are only six remaining. A life in isolation requires many supporters,
even better if wealthy, and a special attraction or two to draw the crowds
(holy relics were vital).
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| "Katopusskos" sunning themselves on a ledge outside Ayiou Stefanou |
Next stop was Ayiou Stefanou (1798), built by monk
Ambrosios. Here, we were treated to a viewing of their famous relic; a skull of a
saint, St Charalambos, in a silver box. The little church was being painted with
traditional frescoes as we watched (although 15th c frescoes do survive),
and crowds mobbed the small museum.
Rudely, tour operators and large groups took up most available space,
inside & out, so we didn’t feel the “composure” of Great Meteoron. That said, the gardens were beautifully
tended and many homely touches featured in this small monastery.
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| Inside Theopetra Cave |
From 14th century monasteries to prehistoric caves. Next on our list was the recently explored Theopetra Caves. This dusty cave system is an
extraordinary repository of early man’s existence. The cave has seen human habitation since
135000 BC to 4000 BC (and no, there’s not too many zeros in those
figures!). Further, it provided
temporary shelter to a range of occupants from the Bronze Age up until 1955. Fertile lands surrounding the cave had been
used by prehistoric man for hunting, farming and running stock. At the cave’s entrance, archaeologists
discovered a 23000 year old stone wall, possibly the oldest manmade structure
ever found. It is thought that the occupants erected the wall to protect
themselves (and their livestock) from extreme cold during the last ice age. Although not the prettiest of ancient sites
we’ve visited in Greece, it’s certainly been the most humbling.
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| Remember to look up... Our friendly B&B |
Our
delightful B&B hosts advised us to take the Grevena road back to the A2 – a
less hilly option. The country was
surprisingly lush and well cared for.
Forested areas (homes for bear & deer) added to the mix and the road
relatively quiet. Sadly, not one bear
came to wave to us. Next time we’ll
carry some honey…
We made it
back to Preveza in time (meaning daylight) to make a stop at Octavian’s (later Augustus Caesar)
Nikopolis or Victory City. The remains
of the city are spread out over a wide area, so we viewed the huge podium, built to celebrate his
victory (over Cleo & Marc Antony’s fleets, not to mention his elevation to
said emperor) and Rome’s might. From
there it was a short drive to fortified Byzantine walls restored by Justinian
(6th c AD) and now under archaeologists’ control, before heading back to a somewhat chilly, Preveza Marina.
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| Two views of Nikopolis, Octavian's Victory City |
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