Eagles Nest

Meteora

This is Meteora. Wow!

Next morning, refreshed, we were picked up from the hotel by a tour group, Visit Meteora.  Given our schedule (still no map) and the fact that this tour included visits to 2 monasteries as well as a notable prehistoric cave, and then had us back in time for lunch, we readily signed up. 

We started with a stop at two rocky outcrops where the first monastic settlements (10^th c) were made.  From the small chapel at the base of Doupiani, we were able to glimpse numerous caves that became “homes” for hermits and in later years, in a more organised capacity, monasteries.  Across from our vantage point, we could see the cave-shrine of St George.  Each year young men “climb” to this cave and replace votive scarves kept there to bring the village good fortune. 

Great Monastery of Meteora

First stop was the Monastery of Great Meteora, (1387-1388) built by St. Athanasios.  It is certainly the most inspiring and highest placed at 615m.  From below, you could only wonder at the determination and achievement of these monks (and supporting villagers) who scaled such sheer walls to bring building materials and daily supplies. 

Some of the frescoes outside the church

We easily climbed a stone stairway, not quite so giddy as a net winched from a platform above, to enter the Monastery.  A number of rooms were set out; kitchens, workshops, storage cellar and crypt (with bones) attest to the rigours of a life led by these monks.  A viewing platform perched on the edge of the Platys Lithos (Broad Rock) gave us chills, but we understood the necessity for preservation of life in dangerous times.   The highlight, aside from a small museum, was the beautiful cross-in-square church decorated from floor to ceiling with vivid frescoes.  Those in the narthex were rather grisly (such is the life of a martyr) but inside it was ablaze in celebration of Christianity.  (A tour guide, not ours, mentioned El Greco but I’ve yet to research this).
 

Back on the bus, we stopped at a number of viewpoints to hear about (and take photos of) the other monasteries, including a “jail” cave, even more austere, where naughty monks were sent to spend time in repentance.  At one time there were some 24 monasteries & hermitages in the area but now, sadly there are only six remaining.  A life in isolation requires many supporters, even better if wealthy, and a special attraction or two to draw the crowds (holy relics were vital).

"Katopusskos" sunning themselves on a ledge outside Ayiou Stefanou

At Ayiou Stefanou (1798), built by monk Ambrosios, we were treated to a viewing of their famous relic; a skull of a saint, St Charalambos, in a silver box.  The little church was being painted with traditional frescoes as we watched (although 15^th c frescoes do survive), and crowds mobbed the small museum.  Rudely, tour operators and large groups took up most available space, inside & out, so we didn’t feel the “composure” of Great Meteora.  That said, the gardens were beautifully tended and many homely touches featured in this small monastery.

Inside Theopetra Cave

Next stop was the recently explored Theopetra Caves.  This dusty cave system is an extraordinary repository of early man’s existence.  The cave has seen human habitation since 135000 BC to 4000 BC (and no, there’s not too many zeros in those figures!).  Further, it provided temporary shelter to a range of occupants from the Bronze Age up until 1955.  Fertile lands surrounding the cave had been used by prehistoric man for hunting, farming and running stock.  At the cave’s entrance, archaeologists discovered a 23000 year old stone wall, possibly the oldest manmade structure ever found. It is thought that the occupants erected the wall to protect themselves (and their livestock) from extreme cold during the last ice age.  Although not the prettiest of ancient sites we’ve visited in Greece, it’s certainly been the most humbling.

This was our B&B

Our delightful B&B hosts advised us to take the Grevena road back to the A2 – a less hilly option.  The country was surprisingly lush and well cared for.  Forested areas (homes for bear & deer) added to the mix and the road relatively quiet.  Sadly, not one bear came to wave to us.  Next time we’ll carry some honey…

We made it back to Preveza in time (meaning daylight) to make a stop at Octavian’s (later Augustus Caesar) Nikopolis or Victory City.  The remains of the city are spread out over a wide area, so we viewed  the huge podium, built to celebrate his victory (over Cleo & Marc Anthony’s fleets, not to mention his elevation to said emperor) and Rome’s might.  From there it was a short drive to fortified Byzantine walls restored by Justinian (6^th c AD) and now under archaeologists’ control, before heading back to a somewhat chilly, Preveza Marina. 

Views of Nikopolis, the Victory City