Saturday, October 25, 2014

Down in the Salt Mines

Sighisoara

Salt stalactite cascade
It was going to be a long drive – Maramures to Sighisoara.  We were offered an opportunity to make it even longer but with a stop at a salt mine (followed by a pastry shop for lunch!).  Thinking ahead however, we made a quick detour to pick up cookies George’s mum had made especially for us.  Really, one has to try new and exciting foods….

The Salina Turda (salt mine) was simply beyond our imagination; once a place of unbelievable suffering, now a ritzy health/tourist resort.  Having made our way underground, we visited the Terezia Mine (a conical or bell mine) 90m high with a lake and island (rowing boats included), a cascade of salt stalactites and a ferris wheel.  Gizela Mine has a spa treatment room and no-one is allowed below for more than 5 hours.  It is an incredibly interesting place if only to note that tourism knows few bounds.


Bet you don't think this is the salt mine. Now fun & health park in one!
Note row boats on lake at the bottom of the mine.

Our accommodation in the old town of Sighisoara, Casa Wagner, was right on the main square, Cetati Square.  Being a castle town, we’ve discovered this means being on top of a hill (most important for defence), loads of narrow, cobbled streets, steep stairs and labyrinthine medieval buildings.  In all, a great workout before dinner!  The town itself dates from Roman times and its citadel (1191) now assured preservation with an UNESCO Heritage listing.

Castle Keep, Sighisoara

Now this is beginning to look a little more Dracula

Sighisoara is the birthplace of famous Romanian, Vlad Tepes, better known as Vlad the Impaler, (1431) who is said to have inspired Bram Stoker’s Gothic novel, Dracula (1897).  Dracul in fact, was a chivalric order (Order of the Dragon) founded to protect Christianity in Eastern Europe.  We heard quite a few stories of this cruel but exceptional leader of Wallachia.   We worked out (as you would) that he impaled somewhere in the order of 95 individuals each day over his years of rule.  The old, sick, infirm and crazy were victims for certain.  Cetati Square though, was the place for witch trails, executions and impaling.  So you could come for the market stalls and craft fairs and stay on for a bit of live entertainment.
 
Vlad

Vlad, and

Vlad (after Bram Stoker got hold of him).

Vlad however proved his worth in defending the town from equally pitiless Ottomans.  With only a small army he defended the citadel against greater odds, until he himself was ruthlessly betrayed and assassinated.  His life story is quite a read and certainly allows one to grasp the fragility of life in those times.

Wow, I think I've just hypnotised a wolf...

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