Ghosts & Screams to Spare

Brasov, Romania

Oh no...is it really snowing?

Despite overnight rain, a definite chill in the air and Mt Tampa glowering overhead all dark and dismal, the day did seem a little brighter.  In search of fairy tales, Claudia led us on a little magic Transylvanian tour of her own.  Of course, we all wanted to see Bran Castle, made famous by Bram Stocker in “Dracula”. But not before taking in a grand Peleș Palace and the Rasnov Fortress.  And why ever not - 3 castles in 1 day...  Let's get started! 

Peleș Palace in stunning surroundings

First stop though was Peleș Palace (1873).  Built in alpine villa style on a royal hunting reserve and summer retreat in the Carpathian Mountains by King Carol 1 of Romania (1839-1914), this romantic Neo-Renaissance palace is a nod to the high life.  Despite such expenses however, King Carol 1 was considered devoted to his country and renown for assisting Romania gain independence & improving the economy. 

Peleș Palace is home to vast collections of armour, art and antiques.  There are numerous large murals, imposing statues and exotic chandeliers (Murano glass & Romanian crystal of course!).  Rooms were decorated in different styles, with luxurious furnishings and fabrics; a favourite however, was heavily carved timber with wood inlay and gold leaf embellishments.  

Beautiful stained glass windows

An intimate interior (with lots gold leaf)

Then, in total contrast, Rasnov Fortress, (1211-1225 tenuous origins) a medieval peasant citadel, that had to work much harder during its life to protect surrounding villagers and farmers when their lands were under attack.  This fortress was entirely a defence mechanism with only the basics necessary to survive held within. 

We walked sturdy walls, peered in quarters that once held survival supplies, stock and items of value, climbed up to the highpoint, once a small church and heard stories of Ottoman captives who dug the well.  There was no time for painting walls, setting mosaics or planting pretty flower gardens. 

Rasnov Citadel

So, then it was on to Bran Castle (1377), originally built as a border citadel and customs post, that looked precariously balanced on its rocky outcrop.  The base is surrounded by quiet parkland and gardens – quite dazzling with autumn colours.  This of course restrains the tourist hype that surrounds it.  Stalls line the entrance stuffed with every imaginable Dracula souvenir, and if that is not enough, you can hire the Count’s limmo (perhaps it's a black hearse?) to drive you here for your visit – or a date with destiny as the case may be. 

Bran Castle

The original (rather more evocative) entrance staircase and draw-bridge has been replaced with a grand stairway (Romanians seem to love having stairs to climb – maybe it’s a fitness thing). 

Once inside the castle, Dracula’s absence is noticeable.  There are lots of photos of Queen Marie who preferred Bran to Peles, and a rickety set of stairs (a secret staircase) takes you up to her favourite retreat, set with fireplace, musical instruments, a writing desk and a bear skin rug. 

There was one room given over to details of Bram Stoker’s Gothic novel perhaps due to demand, but there’s a noticeable lack of vampires, bats, garlic, humpback servants and wooden stakes. 

Now,  I'm up for renovating my studio...

As with most of these palaces and castles, state ownership during the Communist era did much mischief.  Peleș has been rightfully claimed (at great cost) although original furnishings and art/craft collections remain in the hands of the Government.  Bran too has been awarded back to the descendants of its owners, but many of the furnishings are replacements.  Bran is for sale if you’d like it, but I’m not sure how much of the tourist dollar you would get from government coffers and after repair & renovation (conservation) costs.  Modern day bloodsuckers, indeed! 

Headless Horsemen?

Medieval Machines of cruelty (pay extra)

All this medieval darkness, suffering and haunting makes you want to make a break for something less dungeons & dragons.  Bran Castle is incredibly atmospheric.  Why not lighten it all up a bit then?  So, in (more or less) the words of Dr Frank N. Furter  "Welcome... Do come upstairs for a bite."  Of course, that immediately makes your feet start tapping to that oh. so. famous. dance routine that rings round in your head as you boogie your way round the castle walls.  (The Rocky Horror Picture Show, 1975 - but you knew that anyway, right?).