Westward Drift

X-ing File #4_Cape Verdes to the Caribbean

Botticelli's "Birth of Venus".  (1484-86)  Source: Wiki

A few will recognise the amazing painting above by Botticelli (in Florence’s Uffizi Gallery).  Meet Miss Venus floating on her craft of a beautiful shell (perhaps it’s an early version of the outrageously expensive Oyster).  Anyway, back to the painting.  Cute zephyrs create a gentle breeze to waft her to shore, where attendants await with a heavily embroidered silk cloak.  Let me tell you, sailing in the Trades is nothing like that.  Even remotely.

The Cap’n suggested that we might have done better if GS had removed a few garments too (Venus does look great, does she not?).  Aside from the obvious nightly wind chill factor necessitating thermals and bruises from being battered as we rocked and rolled along, we always wore our most basic safety gear, a harness and tether.  Sea boots completed the attractive ensemble so there’s no slipping on deck.  So, in all, GS imagined that dressed as suggested, even Venus would have been more suitably attired for an Oxford Street Mardi-Gras, After-Party.  (As we moved further west and into warmer weather, we could generally dispense with the outer armour - heavy duty wet-weather gear bib & brace pants and jacket. We later relished the opportunity to sit in shorts & tees.)

In all, we sailed 2110nm; probably more given Bert’s (Hydrovane) tendency to slew with the swell.  Our initial intention was to head for Barbados but as we were able to maintain a good course, plans changed and we stayed high to make for Antigua.  That decision added a couple of extra days & miles, but would place us further up the Caribbean island chain, saving a few weeks off our float plan at least.  Besides, Antigua has wonderful anchorages.  English Harbour was one of our favourites when we sailed through in 2008.

Initially, conditions out of the Cape Verdes were still subject to strong North Easterlies, which created a bit of turbulence.  After a couple of days, we cleared and caught the E Trades and settled in for the long haul.  In all we had some good winds which helped push us along, especially at night, so managed to make Antigua in 16 days despite the ongoing presence of swell from various directions giving us a constant rock-rolling.  However, the Atlantic decided we were far too complacent so ensured a rugged “farewell” for our last few days.  We flew round the island’s southern tip at dawn and thankfully into easier conditions before flinging out the hook in Falmouth Harbour.

So, what did we do to amuse ourselves? 

#  Sailing through star filled skies at night was a bonus.  Bioluminescence in the breaking crests and wake at night was equally fascinating.

#  Alfa Male flying fish gave us some amusement with their attempts to clear the dodger side-on with a single leap.  We figured they had set bets within the school!  Some of course, didn’t make it (natural selection in action?) and hit the deck.  The Cap’n added fish removal to his daily chore list.  No, we didn’t fish, nor did we cook the flying fish.  We did open some cans of ‘dolphin-free’ fish, however.

#  Given the conditions, cooking was a severely reduced affair; tins of sardines, baked beans or 2 Min Noodles were generally the go.  The Cap’n resorted to his “ration pack” approach whilst GS designated the galley a no-go (or rarely-go) zone.

#  The Cap’n read & GS did not.  But we all know he can read hanging upside down underwater in a hurricane. 

#  Luckily, he also got most of the ship-dodging action on his shifts.  This gave him opportunity to play with his AIS and radar.  I think we saw 4 freighters in all. Two, given the wide expanse of the Atlantic, came within a nautical mile of us.  Much. Too. Close.

We also celebrated Australia Day mid-Atlantic
by wearing shorts, tees & no shoes

Lastly, and most certainly mid-Atlantic, we had a Bermuda Triangle of breakdowns.  First, the generator refused to start.  Keeping the batteries fully charged became an issue given that the new 8V fridge/freezer was using up a lot of WJ3’s generated solar power.  GS had found a leg of NZ lamb deep in a supermarket freezer in Lagos.  It needed to stay frozen until journey’s end for a celebratory dinner (and the Cap’n is being held to his promise of another bottle of Moet!). 

With the generator down for the count, the battery regulator decided not to charge up the ‘house” batteries.  Meaning even less power available.  Charging of essentials only was the order of the day, with the computerised charts accessed only when updating the ship’s log.  

With reduced C-Map charting facilities, the back-up was focused on Navionics on the iPad.  Right there in the middle of the Atlantic, our iPad cried for Internet connection and given that we couldn’t give it one or iTunes*, had a hissy fit and would not allow us access.  At all.  Wasn’t that convenient and so lucky we’d downloaded a ton of e-books for the trip.  Sigh.

We found this Westward Drift far more taxing than our Eastward Glide in 2011.  We’ve since read others describe the east-going route as having stronger winds and heavier seas, recommending previous heavy weather experience and carrying a drogue (we did) before attempting it.  We must have been rather fortunate; very fortunate.

*FYI.  This iPod (his) was lost at sea, along with both the Admiral’s & the Captain’s cups some time ago.  If found, please return.  All is forgiven.