Let’s Take the Ferry, Please

Sao Antao, Cape Verde Islands

Not in Charge but still watching the Nav...

Once bitten.  You know the rest…  The channel between Sao Vicente and Santo Antao is notorious for its WAZ – those strong gusty winds and dramatic swells.  Ferry passengers are warned to take plastic bags with them.  "Here we go again", sighed GS.  Our Kiwi friends (Ross & Jo, Soujourn) and the friendly marina staff recommended a tour of Santo Antao.  We had the contact details for Jonas, a young guide with an aluguer (van or ute), and absolutely no idea of what we were going to see for our day trip over this neighbouring island.  At least the weather was relatively clear and we had a fine morning view over to Santo Antao.  It looked like our tour was going to take us up some pretty steep gradients.

The moonscape above Porto Novo

After a brisk walk to the huge ferry terminal at Mindelo, we boarded and found a nicely protected cubby hole out of the wind and on the protected (leeward) side of the ferry.  The ferry is the only access to this island, so it offers a combination of foot and vehicle space.  Finally dock lines were released and the Cap’n started counting flying fish (not sheep).  Then, after some dramatic crashing and splashing as we crossed (this was a good day apparently), we arrived in Porto Novo to be met by our friendly tour guide, Jonas. 

Peering into the clouds for the deep trench of Paul's Valley.. Don't push, GS!!

Cova Krater at 1170m with a patchwork of farms below

Spectacular scenery continues

Jonas has a keen interest in his island home and has researched it thoroughly.  With a map in hand, he detailed his plan for the day; essentially a drive up and over the mountains, a stop for lunch at a coastal village, a chance to explore Santo Antao’s most productive and beautiful valley and then a fast drive back to the ferry terminal on the new coastal highway.

The road we followed initially was a legacy of Portuguese craftsmanship – a beautiful and superbly crafted cobbled road.  It was well maintained and planted, reflecting the pride of its inhabitants.  Views back over Porto Novo highlighted a barren landscape dotted with scrub and desert vegetation.  As we approached the top (only of the ridge we were on), the landscape began to change dramatically.  Farmers worked a patchwork of terraced fields and behind the village, pine trees sat perfectly at home in this cooler climate.  We passed a farmer with donkeys carrying water.  Jonas explained that many in rural areaslived without water to their homes.  Young people were seeking work off-island rather than continue traditional village life.  He also pointed out a number of new housing settlements which the local (& very progressive) government had designated for the poor. 

Look at the terracing.  Are we in Nepal?

Views down the Paul Valley to the Portuguese settlement of Ribeira Grande

On we drove to a viewpoint, high and treacherously narrow, over the Valé do Paul (Valley of Paul).  It suddenly became quite chilly as clouds swirled and danced around us, obliterating any view.  We ducked for cover under a tree only to find that it was dripping water.  A weeping tree...  They say mountain air does funny things to you!  Further on, we watched an artistic cloud dance over the vast ancient volcanic crater, the heart of Santo Antao.  The heights were dizzying and the views spectacular.  At every turn, the scenery of deep valleys, dramatic steep slopes, forests of pine and eucalypt and tiny terraced fields reminded us of Nepal.  Walking trails litter the slopes; French and Germans revelling in steep downhill trekking, fresh air and lack of crowds.

Cobbled road along a high altitude village

On the narrow road that promised breathtakingly sheer drops, sometimes on both sides, we climbed down to the thriving Portuguese town of Ribeira Grande, in the midst of preparing for a festival; a horse race run over a track on the river bed.  From there we took the coastal road north to Ponta do Sol, a pretty pastel seaside village proud of its newly constructed hotel.  We ate lunch of freshly grilled fish looking out over the local fishing harbour – a minute and exceptionally choppy hole-in-the-wall suitable only for local boats.  We figured that fishermen must surely deserve a prize for the most dangerous job on the islands. 

It's rather steep on this side of our very narrow road ..

GS & our Guide, Jonas.  Yes, and it's really steep on this side too!

We turned our attention to Ribeira do Paul, a narrow but productive jumble of farms and terraces spread under huge breadfruit trees lining the valley that led from the crater above.  A fresh water spring fed well-maintained gardens and optimum use was made of every space.  Sugar cane was a popular crop and we learned why after stopping at a grogue shop (local distillery, local spelling) to sample various concoctions of white rum.  Inventive use had been made of local fruits, creating a headache-inducing punch.  With a bottle or two, and a spicy mango “marmalade” tucked under our arms, we declared our touring day a huge success and Santo Antao spectacular. 

Coast Road scenery

Fishing Boats at the minute harbour of Ponto do Sol

So, it was reluctantly back to the ferry at Porto Novo on the new asphalt coastal road via Sinagoga (a small Jewish settlement) and Janela; back to cross the moonscape we’d left earlier.  Afternoon winds had set in, conditions in the channel had not improved since the morning, so it was a race for the leeward decks.  Luckily, we still had a few plastic bags left.