Aeolian Coasting

Ayvalik, Turkey

We know from our time travelling through Sicily that Aeolus was god of the winds.  He finally caught up with us in Kusadasi as we slogged north-west for 9 hours, finally resting at the head of an isolated bay, surrounded, of course, by fields of monster wind generators.   

Mersin anchorage - more sheltered than it looks

Eski Foca - a bit too crowded to feel comfortable anchoring here

From there, we crept northwards past Cesme on Turkey’s most western point into a guaranteed wind funnel between it and nearby Chios Island (Greece) before finally setting sail across to Eski Foca.  Eski means “old”, and like just about every nook and cranny along this coast, it is the site of an ancient settlement or harbour.  The bones of the old settlement however have long been buried under new resorts, formal-fronted military academies and buildings that will probably not last the centuries. The town appeared to be a nice low-key resort but barking dogs, pounding disco music and loud voices carrying over the still night did not entice us to stay long.  A colony of monk seals, said to inhabit nearby islands, must have been of the same opinion.

Badlemi Limani, remote and peaceful

Happily we discovered Bademli, a lovely setting with sparkling turquoise water over white sand that made us think fondly of the Caribbean - except for the surrounding acres of ancient olive groves!  Here, on anchor, we safely hid for a few days from strong winds exploring surrounding islands and greasy hot springs in Bruce.   For the first time in ages we managed a snorkel in relatively clear waters, finding a few jittery fish and lots of spikey sea urchins.  We were joined in our quiet reverie firstly by Aussies “Rafaela” and then “Common Sense” with whom we’ve been playing tag along the coast. 

 

Bathing Beauties.  Clear waters and hot springs

In favourable breezes, we made for Ayvalik.  The area contrasts sharply with Turkey’s rugged south coast; an interesting collection of pine-clad islands offers a narrow channel, the Fairway, into Ayvalik Lake, an almost totally landlocked bay.  Deep within, we have on offer a range of sheltered, if not shallow anchorages from which to plan our assault on Greece.  We caught up again with Carol & Terry (Common Sense) in Camlik Koyu.  We shared stories, had a few laughs and discovered that we’d been playing tag since our time in the US.  “Ah, remember squeezing into Jackson Creek?”  It was like “old home” week.  Great fun!

Unusual waterfront mansion from the times of Sultans & Harems perhaps?

From: Kusadasi, Turkey Lat/Long: 37:52.255N 27:15.760E Date/Time: 20/06/14: 0925
To: Ayverlik, Turkey Lat/Long: 39:17.434N 26:39.884E Date/Time: 25/06/14: 1230
Time Taken: 154.5nm (27hrs) Distance (this year): 339nm (60hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13672nm   Weather: WNW-NW-NE 10-20kts;
Fastest Speed: 5.9kts; under motor with an occasional sail just to remember how to do it