Rock Hopper's PMD

Kusadasi

"We'll all be rooned," said Hanrahan...

Our purpose for taking a marina berth (aside from fuel, water and long, hot showers - you know, the essentials) was to visit a trio of lesser known but none-the-less important archaeological sites - Priene, Miletus and Didyma.  Our Lonely Planet guide reminds us; many of the most famous Hellenistic cities are not in Greece, but in Turkey. 

We are currently sailing the Ionian Coast, the ancient Gulf of Latmos now silted beyond recognition by the winding River Menderes (hence “meander”). 

 

The Ionians who settled here established a kingdom that was to give rise to a most influential civilization.  This was where Homer, amongst others of this ilk, came from.

  

Temple of Athena - goddess of war,
seems appropriate really, on many levels

Oh look, it's Hermes

 

Having already visited the impressive Ephesus, we were pleased to find Priene in good shape (relatively speaking).  It is picturesquely situated in a glade of pines with Mt Mykale (of solid marble) looming overhead.   Thankfully, Menderes had done its worst by the time the Romans came so Priene’s value as a city of importance had declined.  As such, we walked well planned and cobbled streets of a Hellenistic city with its intimate theatre, city council meeting place, gymnasium, stadium and temples.  Some restoration work had been completed on the main temple, Temple of Athena and we were suitably impressed by the size of those huge, white marble columns.  One can only imagine how breathtaking a site this must have been to visitors arriving by boat across the turquoise waters of the Latmos Gulf.

Nearby Miletus was the richest and most powerful of the Ionian cities.  It was the League’s principle port, a centre of government and commerce.  It was “improved” by the Romans and then destroyed by the Persians.  The River Menderes had its own agenda and by 700 AD, the port was heavily silted and islands, mere bumps on a flood plain.  The site remained occupied – farming replaced fishing – and it wasn’t until the 1950’s when a severe earthquake destroyed the village that people were encouraged to move on.

Miletus' Great Theatre

 

Miletus’ theatre is in good condition and it is easy to see, like layers of sediment, how individual civilizations have built it up over time.  The Great Theatre, seating 15000, has Ionian underpinnings.  On that, the Romans added several floors and finally, a once great Byzantine castle is now a crumbling crown.  We had time to explore the Baths of Faustina, a huge complex that attests to Miletus’ importance and Emperor Marcus Aurelius’ influence.  A small army of slaves would have been essential to keeping the Baths at their best.  Beyond the Baths we found a beautifully restored mosque dated to 1404 and a Seljuk caravanserai.

Exquisite carving, Temple of Apollo in Didyma

Earthquake shattered column

 

Have I got that pose yet, BCK?

After visiting sites in isolated locations, Didyma appears to have been swallowed whole by coastal resort developments.  Strangely, this seems to fit Didyma’s function – a religious sanctuary.  For over 1400 years, people came from far & wide to visit the largest (Ionic) temple in the world, the Temple of Apollo.  It was occupied by an oracle whose fame was renown; the site as important as Delphi. 

Earthquakes, Persians, conquerors, treasure hunters, land developers and others have all contributed to the decline of this once great complex.  However, it is still incredibly awe-inspiring to walk through those great chunks of marble, touch carvings of fire-breathing monsters and be glared at by the famed Medusa.

Thanks, Mate..you're a real treasure!