Poseidon's Revenge

Korinthos Yacht Harbour, Greece

After a bit of reflection, it's now back to the voyage so far.  Let's start from Chios.

Up for an early departure in Chios

Refining Nav plans yet again
(photo by Jenny on Far Away)

Having left the concrete bunker in Chios, we made a fine, if not long, day of it across to Andros.  All creatures were happy; including GS and two pods of industrious dolphins sweeping by, busy looking for a tasty snack or two.  None more so though, than our hitchhiker Sid, who sang his cicada love song with great gusto for the whole 91 miles!  He abandoned us quickly in Gavrion, no doubt to find romance and a suitable audience for his tales of daring-do.

Gavrion (Andros) is a busy dock and ferry terminal on the Cyclades route.  Its circular shape and steep hills behind would have been perfect inspiration for Greek theatre construction.  Sound carried effortlessly and we wondered if many village secrets were betrayed as a result.  Enormous ferries used our anchorage as something of a turning circle, so finally we moved closer to shore (in shallower water) to alleviate grief on both parts.  The next morning, after Cap’n Devoted replaced a worn fan-belt on the engine, and as two ferries arrived in quick succession, we headed off under sail for Kea.

Gavrion on Andros

Oh, not more company in the anchorage...

Luckily we arrived in Kea early because predicted gentle north winds came, at 18kts, from the south and it was a bun-fight at the small anchorage. We managed to squeeze in avoiding the ire of Korissia Port Police who were determined to keep the ferry dock free from those idiotic enough to anchor there.  These ferries not only needed a turning circle, but also room to lay out giant anchors and vast quantities of chain – med moor style.  Again, we moved closer to the beach to keep out of harm’s way and settled in for a quiet night.  Given an evening of even more hectic anchoring goings-on, we decided not to stay and explore the island (and its Minoan Palace – largely rubble) but head over to Poros tucked up safely in the Saronic Gulf and celebrate our near-perfect Aegean Sea crossing.

Plans of anchoring at the foot of Poseidon’s Temple at Cape Sounion also went astray due to continued southerlies.  A sail past however was in order to pay respects to the ancient god of the seas.  Clearly our offering was not taken well (cheap Aussies!) because not long afterwards our main furling line snapped (in only 15 kts) necessitating a few unpleasant words and a rush of activity.  The silver lining was of course, a splendid opportunity to rummage about in every available chandlery and hardware shop.  Now, WJ3 sports a bright green furling line, perfect for the colour blind and suitable “sailing-for-dummies” material.

Boats of all sizes crowd the town dock in Poros

Having rested in Poros for a few very enjoyable days, we were ready to tackle the Corinth Canal transit, so made our way up to Aegina.  On the way, we paused briefly for a look at Methana, a quaint harbour and village, celebrated for its hot springs and sulphur baths.  An extinct volcano, all black and gloomy, towers above the village. 

Leaving the headland, we were smacked by blasts 18-20kts coming from the NW– not predicted, of course!  As our planned Aegina anchorage was exposed to this, we chose Salamis and its quiet, out-of-the-way township as a better place to hide.  Not before noticing scuttling clouds coming our way.  Could that be rain?  Yes, with a 30kt gale running before it…  Seatbelts on, hatches closed, we bounced, shuddered and crashed our way across the Saronic Gulf to Salamis.    

Salamis

Salamis is surrounded in part by military territory and despite being very close to Athens, appears not to be frequently visited by the likes of us.  It’s nice to experience a Greek town not set up to service tourists or vast charter fleets.  At the fisherman’s dock, beyond the long town promenade, grandly planted with palm trees, we found a supermarket and petrol station so were able to satisfy two urgent needs.  Historically, the island is no backwater having, in 480 BC, been the site of the decimation of Xerxes’ fleet (those dreaded Persians) – a much more powerful force – and thus a dramatic shift of power back to the West.

Next morning we set off for the canal, anchoring at Isthmia to observe procedures for negotiating this narrow, km of channel.  The canal dates back to Roman times (well, the idea for it) and Nero, using Jewish slaves, actually commenced digging.  Meanwhile, a wheeled platform  over a paved road carried boats across the isthmus and cargo, no doubt transferred by donkey and even more slave labour.  The current canal dates to 1890’s and is suitable now only for small commercial traders and pleasure craft.  Thus for WJ3 (all 14m), the transit cost was €240.  We reflected back on our Intra-Coastal Waterway experience in the US.  All canal and bridge transits were simply part of the experience.  Welcome to the Med, bring money….  Having made the canal exit (West) we made for nearby Corinth (Korinthos) and its yacht harbour to make plans for exploring a little more of the Peloponnese by land.

Transiting under bridges.
Parts of the old wall were still visible in some areas.

Nearly at the end

Bridge open; welcome to the Gulf of Korinthos

 

From: Poros, Greece Lat/Long: 37:30.235N 23:26.444E Date/Time: 15/07/14: 0920

To: Korinthos, Greece Lat/Long: 37:56.475N 22:56.202E Date/Time: 17/07/14: 1110
Time Taken: 62nm (13hrs) Distance (this year): 646nm (111hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13979nm   Weather: Variable & unpredictable
On leaving balmy Poros, held on through one blast of 20kts only to be severely trounced with 30kts.  
Fastest Speed: Find a protected anchorage & don’t spare the horses!

Reconsidering Greece

Poros, Greece

So, here we sit in the Saronic Gulf having re-crossed the Aegean, with much to consider.  Given that we had a fairly bad time of it last year, we were fully prepared for the worst and made our crossing quickly, hoping it would be painless.  And it was.  In fact, it was a delight.

Ok, he wins - I think we'll move...  Gavrion, Andros

Greece has 1400 islands, probably more.  Then there’s the mainland to consider.  Our float plan was to visit a few of the quieter islands, then concentrate on mainland Greece, the Peloponnese in particular.  There are lots and lots of ruins of breathtaking age; every town has a museum brimming with amazing artefacts, every island or town at least one story of significance.  Tavernas, offering the delights of Greek cuisine, dot almost every harbour, beach and cove; townsfolk are friendly and welcoming.  There are many sirens, tempting and persuading an unhurried voyage through this country. 

Life never comes without lessons, so we offer these salient points when planning to sail Greece.  All of course, learned in hindsight:

Have lots of options planned.  There is more to Greece than tourist brochure vistas. There are loads of holiday makers and boat/shipping traffic.  Don’t be in a hurry or too inflexible in your planning.  Make use of local transport opportunities to fill the gaps.  For example, we caught a ferry to Hydra as docking is tight in the high season.

Temple of Poseidon, 440BC. Cape Sounion.

Follow local custom.  Rounding Cape Sounion, we (sailors) made offerings of (Euro) coins into the seas - cheap really when you consider Alexander the Great cast his 4 best horses & chariot into the depths.

Don’t underestimate weather conditions.  Check weather forecasts regularly as they can change from day to day.  Conditions can also vary, even over the shortest distance and/or as you round a point of land.  Unlike much of the Med, winds in the Aegean are a regular feature, which is good for sailing providing the wind is from the right direction.  Avoid the worst of the Meltemi (July & August) or be exceptionally patient and be introduced to katabatic winds.  Expect the unexpected.  We also applied the Van Sant maxim (learnt from Caribbean days) – leave early, arrive early. 

We found internet access essential.  Last year our biggest mistake was hasty on-shore Wi-Fi stops (we had no choice).  Now, with our trusty Vodafone data dongle, we can check local conditions for all points of the day’s sail on Windguru and then match the big picture on Passage Weather to our float plan.  (There are lots of other weather information options of course; it’s very much a matter of personal preference.)  

Sharing the Town Dock, Poros

Shared experiences.  We decided early on that town docks were not for us, preferring the quiet life on anchor.  We chose our stops accordingly and found some good recommendations, both on the internet (Noonsite & Jim B) and from talking to others out there on the water.

Just in case you think we are about to join the legions of cruising folk who are devoted entirely to Greece, we are not.  We have, as my mother says, “ants in our pants” and just gotta keep movin’ along.  Besides, there may be a huge Greek community in Australia but right now, right here, there are vast numbers of Aussies on boats attempting to level that score. 

Not quite sure what this was about - but we had
ring-side seats. We later found out it was a wedding.

 

From: Chios, Greece Lat/Long: 38:23.206N 26:08.342E Date/Time: 9/07/14: 0800
To: Poros, Greece Lat/Long: 37:30.235N 23:26.444E Date/Time: 11/07/14: 1600
Time Taken: 167.5nm (25.5hrs) Distance (this year): 584nm (98hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13917nm   Weather: Light & all around the dial avg. 10-18kts;
Fastest Speed: 7.1kts under sail; motored in benign or wind-on-nose conditions

Early evening, Poros Town from our anchorage

Myths 'n Other Things

Paros, Greece

We’ve all seen them haven’t we?  Those glossy photos about sailing in Greece – perfect visibility, warm days, balmy nights and calm, deep blue waters.  This is our version of Greek Island cruising.

View over our anchorage in Pylos

Pylos was a wonderful introduction.  We were full of hope.  As we worked our way east, we were gently introduced to the foibles of weather systems in this area.  Hmmm…  Rounding Cape Maleas was a dream - early in the morning!  Then we met the Meltemi – head on.  Gentle in the early morning, building to something fierce by mid-day, dying in the evening.  In some places, replaced by nightly & often, not-so-gentle, katabatic winds. Anchoring was always a weather gamble.

Octopus Salad on the menu in Ermioni

Our float plan fell apart, several times.  We decided to make north; the latest scheme being to run with the winds behind us as we crossed the Aegean Islands to Turkey.  We hugged, full of hope, to the Peloponnese Peninsular and ended up, for respite, in Porto Kheli.   Next stop, Ermioni was unsettled.  Battered by land breezes during the day (to 30kts) and a rough swell at night (not to mention an “occupation” by a French Fleet and Sail Med Rally – full of 20-35 sweet young things), we stayed on only to catch the hydrofoil to Idra (Hydra) for a day trip.

Idra (four-legged taxis & blinding white houses)

The plan had been to leave Ermioni and sashay our way over to Kithnos, perhaps further. Not so! Our cantankerous Meltemi found us; on the nose again.  Our selected anchorage had more in common with a washing machine, so we rounded the cape and made for Poros instead.  Ah, Poros – home to at least 200 boats, so it had to be a weather escape.  It was, and we recouped over a quiet beer at a waterfront taverna. 

Delightful Poros

Full of confidence, we decided to make a run for Siros.  That lasted 10 minutes…  The Meltemi was furious and eventually GS begged for mercy (a real bucket day it was too!).  Our trusty skipper took us into Kithnos for shelter where we proceeded (twice) to give a doubtful display of anchoring in a rocky cove.  Our trusty anchor winch is still not talking to us…  Further in, by a sandy beach, we at last set the anchor.  Over dinner we hatched yet another plan to travel in the quiet of the night (read: in NO wind).  That was fine whilst we were in the lee (shelter) of the island.  Between rough conditions and vast numbers of other shipping afloat, our Brave Cap’n, stood watch all night.  So, here we are in Paros, recuperating and preparing for another night (or two) before we reach Turkey.

Our neighbours in Paros. They didn't wave as they flew by

Let’s hope things improve, otherwise that large cruise ship at anchor with us here in the bay might just have another passenger or two.  So, anyone contemplating a little Greek sojourn with us had better think again.  Certainly never agree to July or August…..  

Monastery in what was once a secluded location - not now!

PS. Conditions did not improve.  The Cap'n made yet another overnight solo sail all the way through to Pserimos, whilst GS continued to heave ho below decks - despite the Meltemi easing somewhat as we made east.  The Cyclades Islands (obviously named after summer’s cyclonic conditions) provided us with choppy seas, a short, steep swell and confused wind patterns.  Never again… ;-)

From:  Porto Kheli, Greece Lat/Long: 37:19.409N 23:08.975E Date/Time: 4/08/13: 0830

To: Pserimos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:56.165N 27:09.179E Date/Time: 10/08/13: 1710
Time Taken: 262.5nm (40hrs) Distance (this year): 2234nm (356hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13059nm   Weather: NE to NW  15-25kts; G to 30kts
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts; a bumpy, rollicking ride