Myths 'n Other Things

Paros, Greece

We’ve all seen them haven’t we?  Those glossy photos about sailing in Greece – perfect visibility, warm days, balmy nights and calm, deep blue waters.  This is our version of Greek Island cruising.

View over our anchorage in Pylos

Pylos was a wonderful introduction.  We were full of hope.  As we worked our way east, we were gently introduced to the foibles of weather systems in this area.  Hmmm…  Rounding Cape Maleas was a dream - early in the morning!  Then we met the Meltemi – head on.  Gentle in the early morning, building to something fierce by mid-day, dying in the evening.  In some places, replaced by nightly & often, not-so-gentle, katabatic winds. Anchoring was always a weather gamble.

Octopus Salad on the menu in Ermioni

Our float plan fell apart, several times.  We decided to make north; the latest scheme being to run with the winds behind us as we crossed the Aegean Islands to Turkey.  We hugged, full of hope, to the Peloponnese Peninsular and ended up, for respite, in Porto Kheli.   Next stop, Ermioni was unsettled.  Battered by land breezes during the day (to 30kts) and a rough swell at night (not to mention an “occupation” by a French Fleet and Sail Med Rally – full of 20-35 sweet young things), we stayed on only to catch the hydrofoil to Idra (Hydra) for a day trip.

Idra (four-legged taxis & blinding white houses)

The plan had been to leave Ermioni and sashay our way over to Kithnos, perhaps further. Not so! Our cantankerous Meltemi found us; on the nose again.  Our selected anchorage had more in common with a washing machine, so we rounded the cape and made for Poros instead.  Ah, Poros – home to at least 200 boats, so it had to be a weather escape.  It was, and we recouped over a quiet beer at a waterfront taverna. 

Delightful Poros

Full of confidence, we decided to make a run for Siros.  That lasted 10 minutes…  The Meltemi was furious and eventually GS begged for mercy (a real bucket day it was too!).  Our trusty skipper took us into Kithnos for shelter where we proceeded (twice) to give a doubtful display of anchoring in a rocky cove.  Our trusty anchor winch is still not talking to us…  Further in, by a sandy beach, we at last set the anchor.  Over dinner we hatched yet another plan to travel in the quiet of the night (read: in NO wind).  That was fine whilst we were in the lee (shelter) of the island.  Between rough conditions and vast numbers of other shipping afloat, our Brave Cap’n, stood watch all night.  So, here we are in Paros, recuperating and preparing for another night (or two) before we reach Turkey.

Our neighbours in Paros. They didn't wave as they flew by

Let’s hope things improve, otherwise that large cruise ship at anchor with us here in the bay might just have another passenger or two.  So, anyone contemplating a little Greek sojourn with us had better think again.  Certainly never agree to July or August…..  

Monastery in what was once a secluded location - not now!

PS. Conditions did not improve.  The Cap'n made yet another overnight solo sail all the way through to Pserimos, whilst GS continued to heave ho below decks - despite the Meltemi easing somewhat as we made east.  The Cyclades Islands (obviously named after summer’s cyclonic conditions) provided us with choppy seas, a short, steep swell and confused wind patterns.  Never again… ;-)

From:  Porto Kheli, Greece Lat/Long: 37:19.409N 23:08.975E Date/Time: 4/08/13: 0830

To: Pserimos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:56.165N 27:09.179E Date/Time: 10/08/13: 1710
Time Taken: 262.5nm (40hrs) Distance (this year): 2234nm (356hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13059nm   Weather: NE to NW  15-25kts; G to 30kts
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts; a bumpy, rollicking ride

It's All Greek to Me

Pylos, Greece

Pylos Town Square

As we sat enjoying the hospitality of Pylos, and having not done terribly much in the way of planning for our “Greek” leg, one thing became blatantly obvious. We can't stay!

GS had prepared a basic, direct to Turkey float plan but guide books being guide books recommended so much to see and do that two weeks was going to be totally inadequate.  That was all the time left on our Schengen clock this year.  So, we were going to have to be mercenary.  That meant putting together a list of all the “must do” sites.  Greece is overwhelming in this aspect.  

Her current plan calls for about 15 years of combing crumbling ruins, admiring robust cathedrals, watching traditional festivals, lusting after whitewashed cottages set in olive groves and appreciating art in countless museums.  Not to mention that our friend, Hercules, completed no less than seven of his famous Labours right here on the Peloponnese Peninsular…  And we have only 14 days to be out of Schengen areas (this year).  So you understand our dilemma.

View over Neo Kastro

Whilst digesting this challenge, we thought we should take a morning to roam the old (new) fort in town.  Now Pylos commands about two pages in the Guide, most of which is taken up with a map of the area.  “We’re safe”, we thought.  No taxing demands on our turistico-ing itinerary. Wrong! 

Only one way down... at least it's fast!

Pylos is a pretty little town set around a wide main square full of sheltering plane trees, outdoor restaurants and friendly people.  We had not explored far before coming across another Sydney resident – as you do.  Then, after a breakfast of mouth-watering pastries, we prepared for the climb up the hill to explore the medieval castle, Neo Kastro.  Built by the Turks in 1572, it changed hands several times, including duty as a prison for locals, an apparently murderous lot.  Now its pine scented grounds and restored battlements are the perfect site for an archaeological museum of underwater finds. 

Neo Kastro has perfect views over Navarino Bay too.  It’s hard to imagine this was the location of a famous sea battle - Battle of Navarin (1820), which sealed Greek independence and an end to Turkish control. The waters are said to be full of wrecks from the Turkish fleet and make great diving.  Cap’n Diver Dan bought a weight belt in anticipation.  Archaeologists believe that Navarino Bay is also the harbour of Mycenaean King, Nestor.  His ships were part of the great fleet sent to Troy (1220BC).

Looking north over Navarino Bay towards Nestor's Harbour

Neo Kastro's dungeons perhaps?

From our vantage point we hoped to see substantial ruins of another castle and acropolis, all that remains of Ancient Pylos.  One of the most famous battles of classical times was fought here in 425BC.  During the Peloponnesian War, an Athenian force took on a group of Spartans, warriors of repute.  Uncharacteristically, the Spartans surrendered.

Mythical Greece features too.  Near Ancient Pylos, in the rocky hillside, is Nestor’s Cave.  This is where Nestor & Neleus kept their cows - according to Odysseus.  And why would you not believe him!  In this same cave, Hermes hid Apollos’s cattle.  

Have we discovered an ancient city? (15-20ft down)  Sure!

So the lesson is… not to panic.  There is so much history in the Med it easy to be overwhelmed.  You want to cram; you want to see it all!  (Our Cap’n groans…)  However, there is often more than enough right in front of you.  Sometimes it pays to take on less popular options; the less travelled route if you will.  It is uplifting to stand in the small Neo Kastro museum with few, mostly local visitors and be nose-to-nose with exhibits; all minor but none-the-less superb examples of ancient Greece.

A few bats loose in someone's belfry...

Bah Humbug!

Pylos, Greece
  
Sitting on anchor in Pylos, our first Greek port of call after a whirlwind tour through the Med, I’m tempted to hurl a sharp missive to three soothsayers, visitors to the Deltaville Boatyard (USA, 2010).

Bahamas' in 2009 - early days

Let me set the scene.  There we were, at the far end of the boat yard, up on spindly legs getting ready to splash.  Afternoon visitors to the yard were not uncommon and three stopped by for a chat.  Actually, they stopped to highlight Hunter’s foibles, especially as they saw it, only built to suit coastal conditions they said.  Like Witches of Endor, they stirred the pot, making even more outrageous dispersions against Hunter, ignoring our rebuttal.  (Who dared even consider what their own personal sailing stories were?)

Sines, Portugal 2011 after crossing the Atlantic

Finally, they left.  “Rude,” we said in unison.  Had they bothered to listen, WJ3 had already done two laps of the Caribbean Islands, sailed to distant Turks Caicos and managed a tour through remoter Bahamas Islands.  All this before settling on the scenic route to Chesapeake Bay (via the Atlantic ICW). We were on our way to explore Maine.  Hardly dock candy, even then!

So, as we sit on anchor in Greece, about to island hop to Turkey, we say to them bah humbug!  WJ3 has 12,598 nautical miles tucked under her belt since we started sailing her in 2008.  She has now crossed the Atlantic, comfortably and safely, and this year the Mediterranean.  What a gal!  And not bad for an allegedly “unseaworthy” Hunter!

A late insert.  We've now made it to Bodrum, Turkey (2013)

Now I’m not advocating setting out to sea in a pair of floating shoes (Mind, it’s been done before!) but boat builders must comply with certain standards.  We’ve also added modifications to make WJ3 more comfortable (eg. a storm trysail) and to improve her safety (eg a sea anchor).  Check our Hunter460 blog for improvements/annual maintenance reports. 

If in doubt about your own boats seaworthiness, have it professionally surveyed and read how others have set up for ocean passages.  Beth Leonard's famous  book would make a good start.  We’ve seen expensive Beneteaus kept in marinas for Olympic triangle racing and home-made brutes only a mother could love, floating in out of the way places.  Doubting Thomas’s can check our map tracker here.

(Sorry, had to get that one off my chest!)