It's All Greek to Me

Pylos, Greece

Pylos Town Square

As we sat enjoying the hospitality of Pylos, and having not done terribly much in the way of planning for our “Greek” leg, one thing became blatantly obvious. We can't stay!

GS had prepared a basic, direct to Turkey float plan but guide books being guide books recommended so much to see and do that two weeks was going to be totally inadequate.  That was all the time left on our Schengen clock this year.  So, we were going to have to be mercenary.  That meant putting together a list of all the “must do” sites.  Greece is overwhelming in this aspect.  

Her current plan calls for about 15 years of combing crumbling ruins, admiring robust cathedrals, watching traditional festivals, lusting after whitewashed cottages set in olive groves and appreciating art in countless museums.  Not to mention that our friend, Hercules, completed no less than seven of his famous Labours right here on the Peloponnese Peninsular…  And we have only 14 days to be out of Schengen areas (this year).  So you understand our dilemma.

View over Neo Kastro

Whilst digesting this challenge, we thought we should take a morning to roam the old (new) fort in town.  Now Pylos commands about two pages in the Guide, most of which is taken up with a map of the area.  “We’re safe”, we thought.  No taxing demands on our turistico-ing itinerary. Wrong! 

Only one way down... at least it's fast!

Pylos is a pretty little town set around a wide main square full of sheltering plane trees, outdoor restaurants and friendly people.  We had not explored far before coming across another Sydney resident – as you do.  Then, after a breakfast of mouth-watering pastries, we prepared for the climb up the hill to explore the medieval castle, Neo Kastro.  Built by the Turks in 1572, it changed hands several times, including duty as a prison for locals, an apparently murderous lot.  Now its pine scented grounds and restored battlements are the perfect site for an archaeological museum of underwater finds. 

Neo Kastro has perfect views over Navarino Bay too.  It’s hard to imagine this was the location of a famous sea battle - Battle of Navarin (1820), which sealed Greek independence and an end to Turkish control. The waters are said to be full of wrecks from the Turkish fleet and make great diving.  Cap’n Diver Dan bought a weight belt in anticipation.  Archaeologists believe that Navarino Bay is also the harbour of Mycenaean King, Nestor.  His ships were part of the great fleet sent to Troy (1220BC).

Looking north over Navarino Bay towards Nestor's Harbour

Neo Kastro's dungeons perhaps?

From our vantage point we hoped to see substantial ruins of another castle and acropolis, all that remains of Ancient Pylos.  One of the most famous battles of classical times was fought here in 425BC.  During the Peloponnesian War, an Athenian force took on a group of Spartans, warriors of repute.  Uncharacteristically, the Spartans surrendered.

Mythical Greece features too.  Near Ancient Pylos, in the rocky hillside, is Nestor’s Cave.  This is where Nestor & Neleus kept their cows - according to Odysseus.  And why would you not believe him!  In this same cave, Hermes hid Apollos’s cattle.  

Have we discovered an ancient city? (15-20ft down)  Sure!

So the lesson is… not to panic.  There is so much history in the Med it easy to be overwhelmed.  You want to cram; you want to see it all!  (Our Cap’n groans…)  However, there is often more than enough right in front of you.  Sometimes it pays to take on less popular options; the less travelled route if you will.  It is uplifting to stand in the small Neo Kastro museum with few, mostly local visitors and be nose-to-nose with exhibits; all minor but none-the-less superb examples of ancient Greece.

A few bats loose in someone's belfry...