Catching the Pony Express

Cagliari, Sardinia

This is not the one we had planned to catch

Oristano has a train station.  A bus from the marina would take us right there. Cagliari was at the end of the line, a short trip down the coast.  You can see where GS’s thoughts were taking us.  She reasoned that we could cut 3 or 4 days off our itinerary by not sailing there.  And save us marina fees too!  We couldn’t get to the station quickly enough!!!  Oooooh, a train ride…

The scenery down to Cagliari was rather nice (& green)

The train arrived near Piazza Matteotti, a short distance from the busy port area and cruise ship terminus.  It was Saturday.  There were no cruise ships in and therefore Tourist Offices were closed.  So we purchased a map (in Italian) and set off to explore the Marina Quarter and the old fortified castle set up high above it.  A wedding was underway at the impressive 19^th c Neo-Gothic Palazzo Comunale, the kind of building every town hall should be.  The bride arrived in a tiny vintage Renault and stepped out in in a cloud of white tulle and impossibly high red heels.  

There seemed to be a bit of a protest
going on in the old Port quarter... 

Drawn to the Port itself, we ambled along in the hot sun until we realised just how large this complex was before making a dash for the cooler streets across Via Roma.  Unless you actually step onto the road at pedestrian crossings, vehicles are not prepared to stop.  It’s a game of wits, a death wish and chicken joke all rolled into one.  Crossing the road successfully required a celebratory coffee (and a sugary custard-filled pastry).  Standard breakfast fare here.   

 

It was still early and restaurateurs were setting up tables for lunch all through the Marina Quarters narrow lanes.  We spotted a barber, the old fashioned Italian kind, so our Cap’n had a trim and progressed Australian diplomatic relations.  It wouldn’t have mattered.  They think we are all “Americanos” any way….

From Via Mannu, home to some rather trendy shops, we breathlessly climbed the grand marble steps of Bastione San Remy.  This sugar confection, built by the Pisans, marks the southern spur of the old citadel’s defensive walls.  There are pleasant views over the city and port from these steps, and a cooling breeze in the stifling heat, so we took time to catch our breath before heading further uphill into the maze of medieval streets beyond.  We also spotted our bride and groom being photographed in a leafy corner. 

Bastione San Remy - gate to the old citadel

The Castello District was once extremely powerful; home to the aristocracy, centre of ecclesiastical authority, and Cagliari’s administrative hub.  Our first port of call was the Cathedral (Santa Maria del Castello 13^th c) brimming full of bones, relics, art and architecture.  Guide Books sing the praises of various artists, many of whom we did not know.  We decided then and there not to get too caught up in “who did what” but search out the big styles and big names; otherwise appreciate fine work, clever craftsmanship and try to get a feel for local history.  That said, we were probably into cathedral overload by now anyway. 

There's going to be a wedding at the Cathedral

We sat on the Cathedral steps to watch the goings on in Piazza Palazzo – an unfortunate car park for inner district residents.  Bunting was fluttering gaily outside, whilst inside, pews were decorated in silk and white flowers.  Our bride limped by, her shoes not the most suitable for walking the cobbled streets.  However would she make it down that lengthy aisle?  The groom looked as if he was over it all before the ceremony had even started….

A confection of carved marble would you believe...

By this stage we decided to move downhill, towards the train station.  Yes, it was hot and our feet hurt too!  Somehow we arrived at the Elephant Gate (1307), another medieval tower construction marking an entrance into the citadel.  Its massive wooden gates armed with serious iron spikes spoke eloquently of Sardinian people’s early existence.  These gates are said to be masterpieces of military engineering – they certainly looked like it!   Then, it was down a lift, through the grounds of medieval church Santa Chiara, a quick whip around a small market for fruit supplies before crossing Piazza Yenne in the Stampace Quarter (named after an influential 16^th c art school) to bid adieu to King Carlo Felice and hospitable Cagliari .   

This is the backless tower of the Elephant Gate

And this is its rather solid front 1308

There was just enough time to scoff down a gelato before catching the train back to Oristano.  We made it back in good time – a chance to prepare for the next day’s big adventure – our crossing to Sicily.

GS was lucky enough to catch a window display of local costumes & embroidered wraps. Being Saturday, the store was closed.

From:  Oristano, Sardinia Lat/Long: 39:54.175N 8:29.506E Date/Time: 14/07/13: 1135

To: Cefalu, Sicily Lat/Long: 38:02.239N 14:02.125E Date/Time: 17/07/13: 1420
Time Taken: 349nm (57.5hrs) Distance (this year): 1371nm (219hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12196nm   Weather: N to NW best 18-20kts; fine
Fastest Speed: Managed a good sail or two; 6-7kts; played with dolphins again…