Into the Jet Stream

Not much of a conversationalist...but a welcome hitchhiker

Well, we were now on a mission – Lagos or Bust!  Our trip from Stintino (Sardinia) started out well.  We had a friendly hitchhiker (a little bird) stop with us for some time and a huge whale potted about (as they do) on the edge of the continental shelf looking for a snack.  Our last eight hours turned sour though as the wind and an accompanying swell hit us - side on.  Yes, we could have changed course but the result would have been an African landing not Spanish. We were set on arriving in the Balearic Islands, so the Cap’n took charge of the slalom ride whilst GS gripped her bucket firmly.  We arrived eventually at a wonderful anchorage, Cala Taulela, (Menorca) and after removing a cuttlefish from the deck and seaweed from the head, calm was restored sufficiently to sleep soundly.   

Finding a calm & restful anchorage at Cala Taulela, Menorca

Mahon, Menorca

Town Dock & friendly Mermaid at Mahon

Next day was recovery day, so we headed off into town for a “proper” English breakfast, another of those treats we’d really been missing…  At the dock we came across a big “poser” boat.  For the technical minded, it can do 50kts but uses about 1000L per hour – we use 4L.  It also had the capacity to shoot a rooster tail 10m in the air.  Feeling most inadequate, we jumped into Bruce for a bit of coastal property speculation.  Some rather lovely homes dot Mahon bay, a tempting location where you might toy with settling– until reality and tyranny of distance hits. Oh, and lack of funds!

Window shopping along Mahon Harbour

Those mansions look quite small to me... 
You wouldn't like them, I'm sure!

We crossed from Menorca to Mallorca in almost perfect calm, heading for an initial stop at Porto Colom, another well protected anchorage.  Nosing about, looking for an anchorage we came across one of those crabby boating itinerants, who shouted at us.  Now the Cap’n just thought he was being friendly, so the GS, up at the bow, translated his Spanglish to English, much to the amusement of the anchorage.  Having circled once, the Cap’n still uncertain of the intended message circled him again.  Now, that’s really like poking a pig dog in the eye with a stick – not a good thing!  Meaning clear at last, we moved well away.

Taking the challenging route into Santa Ponsa

Our next day took us (and a whole raft of butterflies) to one of our favourite anchorages, Santa Ponsa.  Here we noted an Aussie 80” Oyster "Free Spirit", whose owner came by and said hello.  Nice!  This was only the second Aussie boat (the other, Hugo, at Le Grazie) we had seen this year.  They must all be in Greece?  We then shouted ourselves a dinner out (roast lamb, no less) to sustain ourselves for an early morning crossing to Ibiza.  San Antonio proved to be busier than we last remembered (3 years ago) and with a wind blowing into the anchorage, we upped stakes moving further into the bay.  Knowing that San An had supermarkets close at hand, and ahead of us we had at least 3 or 4 anchorages along the Spanish mainland coast, we wanted the fridge (or that part still functioning!) full. 

You can get an idea of the size of these cliffs along the coast of
Ibiza by looking for the copper coloured sailboat anchored at its foot.

San Antonio (a thoroughly wild town) & a space-age Spanish ferry

By now, the quest for Vinho Verde was driving us on. (Vinho Verde, Portugal’s green wine, or green s**t - affectionately coined I’m sure, John!)  So, with the weather in our favour and conditions much improved since leaving the Mistral behind, we started to do big steps, knowing that there were plenty of marinas at hand should we need to seek shelter.  Finally, the Rock (Gibraltar) came into sight, so we rested at La Linea Marina until the tide and winds were right to escape through the Straits (with 25kts pushing us past Tarifa) and pop back out into the Atlantic.  Ah, the Atlantic, bringing back those vague memories of tidal action and swell.  A last ditch effort brought us straight to Lagos and we tucked up into a cosy marina berth just before a rather nasty weather system arrived from the NW bringing 30+kt winds.   

Raging & serious bushfires along the Spanish Coast - the specks are planes
dropping water on the fires - there were 6 planes, all working together.

Is it a rock or a prehistoric monster
(after having a sneak peek at Medusa?)

Calm seas at night

And a few friends came to cheer us along the way

So, here we are, balanced on the very edge of Portugal, cleaning WJ3 until she sparkles and getting ready to haul out after 5 years in the Med – with our minds half wondering what next year will bring. 

(After haul out, we make for Barcelona for a few days sightseeing, so the blog will continue for a wee bit yet!)

Finding Moitessier's "Joshua" at La Linea Marina
Or is it just a copy?

We're getting close!  Early morning calm as we arrived at La Linea to dock.
Then it blew up, reaching 25kts very quickly!

“Look at Me” Fleet

Corsica to Sardinia: A foot in both worlds

Porto Vecchio

Bastia is still quite a ways up the east coast of Corsica (Cape Corse) and we had a long way to go along a coastline promising little in the way of decent anchorages until its south-east corner.  Again, it seemed most were heading north, heralding the end of August and the end of peak holiday season.  Our mission was to get to Porto Vecchio and wait for good weather to visit Bonifacio.  The Bonifacio Straits are another unpredictable wind machine, so we crossed our fingers.  Porto Vecchio was a fabulous, well-protected anchorage but we could not linger.  Besides it was Saturday and every man & his dog was out in a boat.  A race was on too; a collection of vintage craft, at least 3 gaff-rigged and certainly some timber, floated in light morning airs around the islands off the coast.  Anchorages were full of “look at me” boats, others created high wakes called “rooster tails” whilst fast ribs, full of tanned young men in speedos, went looking for bow bunnies – it was beginning to look a lot like the Amalfi Coast all over again. 

Wild landscape at Corsica's southern end

Bonifacio from the Straits

We plodded on to Bonifacio, wondering what lay ahead.  It’s quite a spectacular setting but the harbour is beyond hectic.  Still, the Cap’n took us in for a discovery run and we even noted the possibility of a med moor in a little bay (Calanque de Catena) where Odysseus’s ships were destroyed by the wild and aggressive Laestrygonians.  Now, heroic challenges came from a different quarter!  A 50’ catamaran was determined to take up the whole channel and an immense hot water boat (maybe 100’) squeezed itself onto a dock meant for something much smaller.  As GS snapped a few quick photos of this very pretty town, the Cap’n dexterously sidestepped a flotilla of craft flooding into this narrow waterway - all set on finding a berth.  

We decided enough was enough and left the chaos behind for a safer, less popular anchorage over in Sardinia.  Well, you can’t always be right – the bay was alive with nasty brown jelly-fish (no swimming) and at night the wind turned directly into the bay (no sleep).  

Cave at the entrance to Bonifacio

And the start of visible fortifications

Into Bonifacio Harbour - it looks so serene in the photo!

Fortifications and "commercial dock" for ferries

It was easy then to get up very early and make for Stintino, our launchpad for the Balearics.  A couple of Frenchies were anchored off the marina entrance there so we decided to join them.  It took a few goes to get the anchor set (sand over rock) but in the end she held.  Being Sunday, everyone was returning to their berths at the marina, and we had quite a vantage point to watch the goings on.  Eventually, the Cap’n went ashore to scout out a weather report (we’d had no internet since Bastia).  A very helpful lady at the local yacht club checked for us - still clear, with a blow (Mistral) expected in two days.  Another early start was scheduled for the next morning….

Nearing our anchorage in Capo Testa, Sardinia.  So, it's back to Italy, again!

Catching the Pony Express

Cagliari, Sardinia

This is not the one we had planned to catch

Oristano has a train station.  A bus from the marina would take us right there. Cagliari was at the end of the line, a short trip down the coast.  You can see where GS’s thoughts were taking us.  She reasoned that we could cut 3 or 4 days off our itinerary by not sailing there.  And save us marina fees too!  We couldn’t get to the station quickly enough!!!  Oooooh, a train ride…

The scenery down to Cagliari was rather nice (& green)

The train arrived near Piazza Matteotti, a short distance from the busy port area and cruise ship terminus.  It was Saturday.  There were no cruise ships in and therefore Tourist Offices were closed.  So we purchased a map (in Italian) and set off to explore the Marina Quarter and the old fortified castle set up high above it.  A wedding was underway at the impressive 19^th c Neo-Gothic Palazzo Comunale, the kind of building every town hall should be.  The bride arrived in a tiny vintage Renault and stepped out in in a cloud of white tulle and impossibly high red heels.  

There seemed to be a bit of a protest
going on in the old Port quarter... 

Drawn to the Port itself, we ambled along in the hot sun until we realised just how large this complex was before making a dash for the cooler streets across Via Roma.  Unless you actually step onto the road at pedestrian crossings, vehicles are not prepared to stop.  It’s a game of wits, a death wish and chicken joke all rolled into one.  Crossing the road successfully required a celebratory coffee (and a sugary custard-filled pastry).  Standard breakfast fare here.   

 

It was still early and restaurateurs were setting up tables for lunch all through the Marina Quarters narrow lanes.  We spotted a barber, the old fashioned Italian kind, so our Cap’n had a trim and progressed Australian diplomatic relations.  It wouldn’t have mattered.  They think we are all “Americanos” any way….

From Via Mannu, home to some rather trendy shops, we breathlessly climbed the grand marble steps of Bastione San Remy.  This sugar confection, built by the Pisans, marks the southern spur of the old citadel’s defensive walls.  There are pleasant views over the city and port from these steps, and a cooling breeze in the stifling heat, so we took time to catch our breath before heading further uphill into the maze of medieval streets beyond.  We also spotted our bride and groom being photographed in a leafy corner. 

Bastione San Remy - gate to the old citadel

The Castello District was once extremely powerful; home to the aristocracy, centre of ecclesiastical authority, and Cagliari’s administrative hub.  Our first port of call was the Cathedral (Santa Maria del Castello 13^th c) brimming full of bones, relics, art and architecture.  Guide Books sing the praises of various artists, many of whom we did not know.  We decided then and there not to get too caught up in “who did what” but search out the big styles and big names; otherwise appreciate fine work, clever craftsmanship and try to get a feel for local history.  That said, we were probably into cathedral overload by now anyway. 

There's going to be a wedding at the Cathedral

We sat on the Cathedral steps to watch the goings on in Piazza Palazzo – an unfortunate car park for inner district residents.  Bunting was fluttering gaily outside, whilst inside, pews were decorated in silk and white flowers.  Our bride limped by, her shoes not the most suitable for walking the cobbled streets.  However would she make it down that lengthy aisle?  The groom looked as if he was over it all before the ceremony had even started….

A confection of carved marble would you believe...

By this stage we decided to move downhill, towards the train station.  Yes, it was hot and our feet hurt too!  Somehow we arrived at the Elephant Gate (1307), another medieval tower construction marking an entrance into the citadel.  Its massive wooden gates armed with serious iron spikes spoke eloquently of Sardinian people’s early existence.  These gates are said to be masterpieces of military engineering – they certainly looked like it!   Then, it was down a lift, through the grounds of medieval church Santa Chiara, a quick whip around a small market for fruit supplies before crossing Piazza Yenne in the Stampace Quarter (named after an influential 16^th c art school) to bid adieu to King Carlo Felice and hospitable Cagliari .   

This is the backless tower of the Elephant Gate

And this is its rather solid front 1308

There was just enough time to scoff down a gelato before catching the train back to Oristano.  We made it back in good time – a chance to prepare for the next day’s big adventure – our crossing to Sicily.

GS was lucky enough to catch a window display of local costumes & embroidered wraps. Being Saturday, the store was closed.

From:  Oristano, Sardinia Lat/Long: 39:54.175N 8:29.506E Date/Time: 14/07/13: 1135

To: Cefalu, Sicily Lat/Long: 38:02.239N 14:02.125E Date/Time: 17/07/13: 1420
Time Taken: 349nm (57.5hrs) Distance (this year): 1371nm (219hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12196nm   Weather: N to NW best 18-20kts; fine
Fastest Speed: Managed a good sail or two; 6-7kts; played with dolphins again…

Oristano Walking Tour

Oristano, Sardinia

A mix-up with our paperwork (we’re from Australia - not outer space, though sometimes it feels like it) initially had us confined to WJ3 with visits allowed – no overnights – to Oristano only…   Fortunately, the Police rang back later and confirmed that we were indeed “acceptable” travellers and to fill our boots so as to speak (but not with concrete you understand!).

WJ3 in her silted-up Torre Grande Marina berth

Being Friday and needing a few things, we combined a visit to nearby Oristano with our chores, and as it turned out, had a great day in a normal, almost tourist-free town.   

Sardinia has a long history given the number of mysterious nuraghic structures (1800 BC) dotted around the island.   Add to this evidence of successive waves of settlement and invasion by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Spanish, Italian, Austrian and quite possibly a few others – all enough to make your ancient history head spin.  Oristano features strongly in all this with nearby Sinis Peninsular home to Tharros, an ancient port settled by the Phoenicians and later an important stop on the Marseilles to Carthage trading route.  Dating from the middle ages, Oristano has connections with Eleonora d’Arborea (1340-1404), a “Joan of Arc” style figure who contributed much to Sardinia’s advancement, particularly in civil rights.  So we felt we couldn’t have landed in a better place to start exploring.  So here’s your walking tour of Oristano’s main sights:

Torre di Mariano - once a gate in massive walls

Stop 1.  Make for Piazza Roma and admire the 13^th c Torre di Mariano II, once the medieval Oristano’s north gate (1290) and part of the town wall – another massive structure, most of which has since been demolished.  The tower, crenelated and backless, is topped by a massive bronze bell. 

The Museum is full of interesting finds, making GS want to take up pottery again!

Stop 2.  Walk through narrow Via Parpaglia, passing (but not noticing) a derelict 16^th Casa di Eleonora. Admire an interesting theatre building before moving on to the Antiquarium  Arborense.  This treasure-hold of archaeological finds from the province is housed in a charming merchant’s house fronting on to leafy Piazza Corrias.   The museum, brimming with artefacts was a delight and the staff friendly & very helpful.  After seeing displays from Tharros, a Phoenician (8th c BC) then Roman Port, we hoped to find time to explore this amazing site too.

A robust Santa Chiara & Convent

Stop 3.  Backtrack to Via Garibaldi to pass Santa Chiara, a 14^th c church said to be the burial place of Eleonora; actually it’s her aunt.  (The church is part of a Convent complex and permission is needed to tour it.)  A little further on is another survivor of the city’s defences, the squat Portixedda; one of two towers, it stood guard on the western approaches to the city. 

Portixedda

Stop 4.  From here our trusty tour guide took us on a “protracted” route skirting the old city.  Better to backtrack to Via Lamarmora and stay inside the old city.  Stop on the way in Via Carmine to admire the old church near the University building.  From here, circle the block.  (No!  Not that way!  The Cap’n is adrift again.)  With any luck, and a few very tall palm trees for guidance, you should end up in Piazza Eleonora.

Eleonora stands proud

Stop 5.  Sit here for a while in the late afternoon sun with the old folk under the statue of Eleonora (1881) and admire the buildings surrounding the piazza, including the Municipio (Town Hall).  Walk with locals as they perform the ritual afternoon stroll (passeggiata) – a pre-dinner requisite.  Whilst here, pick up a few more pamphlets at the Tourist Office.  More things to see whilst in Sardinia.  Discover that a Textile Museum and Tharros are well out of cycling range.  Our guide, who much prefers boats, sighs with relief….

Duomo's Bell Tower - note ugly faces under the dome

Stop 6.  At the top of Piazza Eleonora turn to take in the view of San Francesco’s solid white Ionic columns and the Duomo’s (13^th c) magnificent “onion-roofed” bell tower.  This tower is a taster for the cathedral’s glitzy interior; a mix of many styles with lots of gilt, marble, paint and impassioned religious statuary. It is extraordinarily overwhelming – as of course, it was meant to be.  Attached to the complex is the stunning seminary (1712).

Inside the Cathedral

Stop 7.  Walk down Via Sant’ Antonio and take a rest at the only other surviving wall remnant before deciding whether to bus it back to the marina or stop for a “refreshing ale” at one of the outdoor cafes surrounding Piazza Roma.  We took the bus, but stopped at the marina bar instead – balm for our aching feet either way!

Second Big Leg

Sardinia

After bidding the KIPS a fond farewell, the Motley Crew set about preparing for the next big leg of the journey eastwards.  The Cap’n of course managed a few hours R&R on shore whilst GS took stock of her GS (green sh*t) wine supplies (special thanks to our wine connoisseur guests who coined this endearing term).

The Cap'n on R&R in Mallorca.
It's ok, boys.  This rugby fan is not related to us...

Finally prepared, the Windjammers set off directly for Sardinia.  There is only so much cala hopping, nightly party bopping and annoying anchoring manoeuvres that one can observe before the blood pressure ceases to function!  This 46 hour trip was to be our introduction to Roamin’ (get it?) Wind Gods.  Whilst our trusty pilot lists a multitude of winds, all with rather romantic names, Bob Cooper in “On the Nose” suggests there are really only three - Surlanez (on the nose), Intrafundamental (ahem!…from behind) or Nof#chingaventi (bugger all).  Go Bob, we found all three!!

Astro Boy was in town for a few days too!

After swatting nasty black flies, scaring turtles and playing chicken with several freighters during those long nights, we made the shallow entrance to Torre Grande Marina near Oristano in Sardinia.  Yes, we’d made Italy…  Here we planned to stay for a couple of recovery days.  The water was free (after 0.40c per litre for non-potable in Mallorca) but the fuel prices were crippling.  Just the thing when you’ve just motored 293 miles….   

Then it was just one lovely sunset

For anyone interested in the basics, there is no laundry at the Marina; facilities are basic but clean.  The payoff for time spent bucket washing is the nice little restaurant on the dock, with in retrospect, the best food we'd ever eaten.  Welcome to Italy!!  A bus services the Marina regularly and there is a laundromat and small chandlery not far from the supermarket on the road into Oristano. 

The Marina and nearby beach-side resort town is named after the rather solid cylindrical Aragonese (Spanish) watchtower that sits heavily on the coast in its midst.

After another...  this one's at sea

 

From:  Santa Ponca, Mallorca Lat/Long: 39:30.851N 02:28.375E Date/Time: 9/07/13: 1000

To: Oristano, Sardinia Lat/Long: 39:54.175N 8:29.506E Date/Time: 11/07/13: 0745
Time Taken: 293nm (46hrs) Distance (this year): 1022nm (161.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11847nm   Weather: NW generally 3-4kts; mill pond calm;
Fastest Speed: Motored most of the way; played with dolphins