Showing posts with label Mallorca. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mallorca. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Into the Jet Stream

Not much of a conversationalist...but a welcome hitchhiker
Well, we were now on a mission – Lagos or Bust!  Our trip from Stintino (Sardinia) started out well.  We had a friendly hitchhiker (a little bird) stop with us for some time and a huge whale potted about (as they do) on the edge of the continental shelf looking for a snack.  Our last eight hours turned sour though as the wind and an accompanying swell hit us - side on.  Yes, we could have changed course but the result would have been an African landing not Spanish. We were set on arriving in the Balearic Islands, so the Cap’n took charge of the slalom ride whilst GS gripped her bucket firmly.  We arrived eventually at a wonderful anchorage, Cala Taulela, (Menorca) and after removing a cuttlefish from the deck and seaweed from the head, calm was restored sufficiently to sleep soundly.   
Finding a calm & restful anchorage at Cala Taulela, Menorca

Mahon, Menorca

Town Dock & friendly Mermaid at Mahon
Next day was recovery day, so we headed off into town for a “proper” English breakfast, another of those treats we’d really been missing…  At the dock we came across a big “poser” boat.  For the technical minded, it can do 50kts but uses about 1000L per hour – we use 4L.  It also had the capacity to shoot a rooster tail 10m in the air.  Feeling most inadequate, we jumped into Bruce for a bit of coastal property speculation.  Some rather lovely homes dot Mahon bay, a tempting location where you might toy with settling– until reality and tyranny of distance hits. Oh, and lack of funds!

Window shopping along Mahon Harbour

Those mansions look quite small to me... 
You wouldn't like them, I'm sure!
We crossed from Menorca to Mallorca in almost perfect calm, heading for an initial stop at Porto Colom, another well protected anchorage.  Nosing about, looking for an anchorage we came across one of those crabby boating itinerants, who shouted at us.  Now the Cap’n just thought he was being friendly, so the GS, up at the bow, translated his Spanglish to English, much to the amusement of the anchorage.  Having circled once, the Cap’n still uncertain of the intended message circled him again.  Now, that’s really like poking a pig dog in the eye with a stick – not a good thing!  Meaning clear at last, we moved well away.
Taking the challenging route into Santa Ponsa
Our next day took us (and a whole raft of butterflies) to one of our favourite anchorages, Santa Ponsa.  Here we noted an Aussie 80” Oyster "Free Spirit", whose owner came by and said hello.  Nice!  This was only the second Aussie boat (the other, Hugo, at Le Grazie) we had seen this year.  They must all be in Greece?  We then shouted ourselves a dinner out (roast lamb, no less) to sustain ourselves for an early morning crossing to Ibiza.  San Antonio proved to be busier than we last remembered (3 years ago) and with a wind blowing into the anchorage, we upped stakes moving further into the bay.  Knowing that San An had supermarkets close at hand, and ahead of us we had at least 3 or 4 anchorages along the Spanish mainland coast, we wanted the fridge (or that part still functioning!) full. 
You can get an idea of the size of these cliffs along the coast of
Ibiza by looking for the copper coloured sailboat anchored at its foot.

San Antonio (a thoroughly wild town) & a space-age Spanish ferry
By now, the quest for Vinho Verde was driving us on. (Vinho Verde, Portugal’s green wine, or green s**t - affectionately coined I’m sure, John!)  So, with the weather in our favour and conditions much improved since leaving the Mistral behind, we started to do big steps, knowing that there were plenty of marinas at hand should we need to seek shelter.  Finally, the Rock (Gibraltar) came into sight, so we rested at La Linea Marina until the tide and winds were right to escape through the Straits (with 25kts pushing us past Tarifa) and pop back out into the Atlantic.  Ah, the Atlantic, bringing back those vague memories of tidal action and swell.  A last ditch effort brought us straight to Lagos and we tucked up into a cosy marina berth just before a rather nasty weather system arrived from the NW bringing 30+kt winds.   
Raging & serious bushfires along the Spanish Coast - the specks are planes
dropping water on the fires - there were 6 planes, all working together.

Is it a rock or a prehistoric monster
(after having a sneak peek at Medusa?)

Calm seas at night

And a few friends came to cheer us along the way
So, here we are, balanced on the very edge of Portugal, cleaning WJ3 until she sparkles and getting ready to haul out after 5 years in the Med – with our minds half wondering what next year will bring. 

(After haul out, we make for Barcelona for a few days sightseeing, so the blog will continue for a wee bit yet!)
Finding Moitessier's "Joshua" at La Linea Marina
Or is it just a copy?
We're getting close!  Early morning calm as we arrived at La Linea to dock.
Then it blew up, reaching 25kts very quickly!

Saturday, July 20, 2013

Second Big Leg

Sardinia

After bidding the KIPS a fond farewell, the Motley Crew set about preparing for the next big leg of the journey eastwards.  The Cap’n of course managed a few hours R&R on shore whilst GS took stock of her GS (green sh*t) wine supplies (special thanks to our wine connoisseur guests who coined this endearing term).
The Cap'n on R&R in Mallorca.
It's ok, boys.  This rugby fan is not related to us...
Finally prepared, the Windjammers set off directly for Sardinia.  There is only so much cala hopping, nightly party bopping and annoying anchoring manoeuvres that one can observe before the blood pressure ceases to function!  This 46 hour trip was to be our introduction to Roamin’ (get it?) Wind Gods.  Whilst our trusty pilot lists a multitude of winds, all with rather romantic names, Bob Cooper in “On the Nose” suggests there are really only three - Surlanez (on the nose), Intrafundamental (ahem!…from behind) or Nof#chingaventi (bugger all).  Go Bob, we found all three!!
Astro Boy was in town for a few days too!
After swatting nasty black flies, scaring turtles and playing chicken with several freighters during those long nights, we made the shallow entrance to Torre Grande Marina near Oristano in Sardinia.  Yes, we’d made Italy…  Here we planned to stay for a couple of recovery days.  The water was free (after 0.40c per litre for non-potable in Mallorca) but the fuel prices were crippling.  Just the thing when you’ve just motored 293 miles….   
Then it was just one lovely sunset
For anyone interested in the basics, there is no laundry at the Marina; facilities are basic but clean.  The payoff for time spent bucket washing is the nice little restaurant on the dock, with in retrospect, the best food we'd ever eaten.  Welcome to Italy!!  A bus services the Marina regularly and there is a laundromat and small chandlery not far from the supermarket on the road into Oristano. 

The Marina and nearby beach-side resort town is named after the rather solid cylindrical Aragonese (Spanish) watchtower that sits heavily on the coast in its midst.
After another...  this one's at sea
 
From:  Santa Ponca, Mallorca Lat/Long: 39:30.851N 02:28.375E Date/Time: 9/07/13: 1000
To: Oristano, Sardinia Lat/Long: 39:54.175N 8:29.506E Date/Time: 11/07/13: 0745
Time Taken: 293nm (46hrs) Distance (this year): 1022nm (161.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11847nm   Weather: NW generally 3-4kts; mill pond calm;
Fastest Speed: Motored most of the way; played with dolphins

Sunday, July 7, 2013

Arts & Antiquities

Mallorca, Spain

After a few more days on anchor, swimming and lighting up WJ3’s bbq (for the first time in ages), we took a night trip over to Mallorca.  Why?  You may well ask…  During the day, fresh breezes ensured a bumpy on-the-nose ride but at night, calm returned.  Even so, we managed to pick up a decent breeze to sail into Puerto de Andraitx by 5.30am and watch the sunrise.  Andraitx had a nasty swell in the outer harbour and the inner harbour “anchorage” was full of expensive mooring balls. 
Swimming at Santa Ponca
So, with general approval, we turned tail and motored on to Santa Ponca (Pon sa), a delightful, well protected cala full of Palma’s day-trippers.  The water was clear, calm and warm so we hunkered down, eventually creeping further in for even better protection and warmer water.  By the weekend, we must have had 50 fellow boaters at anchor, few of whom waved or shared the expected cruising bonhomie.  

Finally we discovered a dinghy dock (of sorts – on a rocky ledge west of Calo d’en Pellicer & east of the ‘balcony” restaurants) and suffered our first petty theft in seven years – a paddle, of all things…  Santa Ponca though, is known for far more noble things, having in 1229 protected the combined fleets of Aragon and Catalonia.  King Conquistador, Jaime 1, then succeeded in driving out the Moors from Mallorca.  A stone cross near the harbour entrance marks this significant event.
The hat says Altea, but the head says Soller...   Where am I today?
The Motley Crew however were intent on a day of sightseeing and had selected a trip on a little vintage train.  Since 1912, it has clacky-clacked its way from Palma through a very steep but scenic Serra de Tramuntana to arrive in the picturesque village of Soller. 
Tram at Puerto de Soller
From the train station we simply leapt aboard an equally vintage electric tram (not before spotting a tempting little patisserie) to make our way further downhill (2km) to the small but attractive Port.  Here we revived ourselves with coffee (and a little shopping) before heading back uphill to lunch (not ham & cheese rolls again!) in the leafy main square.  We sat a while enjoying the ambience and admiring an impressive Cathedral and robust Town Hall.  Then, after spending up big at the patisserie on alcohol drenched cakes and a bottle of the local tipple, Hierbas de Mallorca  (very beneficial for the health, although it looks like green poison), we discovered an amazing little museum under the train station. 
Soller's Cathedral off the main square
It seems that one of the Railway workers had amassed a collection of Picasso ceramic works and kindly loaned them for the general public’s edification.  In adjoining rooms, there is an equally impressive collection of Miro’s whimsical prints on display.  Miro had a studio in Palma and it is understood that he travelled to Soller for inspiration. 
Picasso's happy face
This region has been quite the drawcard for artists and writers; nearby Deia was home to Robert Graves (author of “I, Claudius”).  Spain in general seems to have been a bit of a hotbed for those artistically gifted.  During our wanderings, we’ve seen works by Picasso, Goya, Salvador Dali, Velasquez, Miro and Juan Gris to name but a few.  We’ve found many of these works in smaller, regional galleries which afford us an opportunity to get up close and personal.  Not to mention, take lots and lots of photos…  And whilst waiting, the Cap’n improved his mind with lots and lots of reading.
Our guests' sad faces.  It's time to go... 
Wait!  They're looking happy!  And they've left their luggage behind....

From:  San Antonio, Ibiza  Lat/Long: 38:58.264N 01:18.016E Date/Time: 1/07/13: 1400
To: Santa Ponca, Mallorca Lat/Long: 39:30.851N 02:28.375 Date/Time: 3/07/13: 0720
Time Taken: 77.5nm (12.5hrs) Distance (this year): 729nm (115.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11554nm   Weather: NE generally 6-10kts; calm & flat;
Fastest Speed: Speed?  What speed?  Aquarium-like waters but little marine life