Oristano, Sardinia
A mix-up
with our paperwork (we’re from Australia - not outer space, though sometimes it feels like it) initially had us
confined to WJ3 with visits allowed – no overnights – to Oristano only… Fortunately, the Police rang back later and
confirmed that we were indeed “acceptable” travellers and to fill our boots so
as to speak (but not with concrete you understand!).
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| WJ3 in her silted-up Torre Grande Marina berth |
Being Friday
and needing a few things, we combined a visit to nearby Oristano with our chores, and
as it turned out, had a great day in a normal, almost tourist-free town.
Sardinia has
a long history given the number of mysterious nuraghic structures (1800 BC)
dotted around the island. Add to this
evidence of successive waves of settlement and invasion by Phoenicians,
Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Spanish, Italian, Austrian and quite possibly a
few others – all enough to make your ancient history head spin. Oristano features strongly in all this with
nearby Sinis Peninsular home to Tharros,
an ancient port settled by the Phoenicians and later an important stop on the
Marseilles to Carthage trading route. Dating
from the middle ages, Oristano has connections with Eleonora d’Arborea
(1340-1404), a “Joan of Arc” style figure who contributed much to Sardinia’s
advancement, particularly in civil rights.
So we felt we couldn’t have landed in a better place to start exploring. So here’s your walking tour of Oristano’s main sights:
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| Torre di Mariano - once a gate in massive walls |
Stop 1.
Make for Piazza Roma and
admire the 13th c Torre di
Mariano II, once the medieval Oristano’s north gate (1290) and part of the
town wall – another massive structure, most of which has since been
demolished. The tower, crenelated and backless,
is topped by a massive bronze bell.
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| The Museum is full of interesting finds, making GS want to take up pottery again! |
Stop 2.
Walk through narrow Via Parpaglia, passing (but not noticing) a derelict
16th Casa di Eleonora.
Admire an interesting theatre
building before moving on to the Antiquarium Arborense. This treasure-hold of archaeological finds from
the province is housed in a charming merchant’s house fronting on to leafy Piazza Corrias. The museum, brimming with artefacts was a
delight and the staff friendly & very helpful. After seeing displays from Tharros, a Phoenician (8th c BC) then Roman Port, we hoped to find time to explore this amazing site too.
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| A robust Santa Chiara & Convent |
Stop 3.
Backtrack to Via Garibaldi to pass Santa
Chiara, a 14th c church said to be the burial place of Eleonora;
actually it’s her aunt. (The church is
part of a Convent complex and permission is needed to tour it.) A little further on is another survivor of
the city’s defences, the squat Portixedda; one of two towers, it stood guard on the
western approaches to the city.
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| Portixedda |
Stop 4.
From here our trusty tour guide took us on a “protracted” route skirting
the old city. Better to backtrack to Via
Lamarmora and stay inside the old city. Stop on the way in Via Carmine to admire the old church
near the University building. From here,
circle the block. (No! Not that way!
The Cap’n is adrift again.) With
any luck, and a few very tall palm trees for guidance, you should end up in Piazza Eleonora.
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| Eleonora stands proud |
Stop 5.
Sit here for a while in the late afternoon sun with the old folk under
the statue of Eleonora (1881) and
admire the buildings surrounding the piazza, including the Municipio (Town Hall). Walk
with locals as they perform the ritual afternoon stroll (passeggiata) – a
pre-dinner requisite. Whilst here, pick
up a few more pamphlets at the Tourist Office.
More things to see whilst in Sardinia.
Discover that a Textile Museum
and Tharros are well out of cycling
range. Our guide, who much prefers boats, sighs with relief….
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| Duomo's Bell Tower - note ugly faces under the dome |
Stop 6.
At the top of Piazza Eleonora turn to take in the view of San Francesco’s solid white Ionic
columns and the Duomo’s (13th
c) magnificent “onion-roofed” bell tower.
This tower is a taster for the cathedral’s glitzy interior; a mix of
many styles with lots of gilt, marble, paint and impassioned religious
statuary. It is extraordinarily overwhelming – as of course, it was meant to
be. Attached to the complex is the
stunning seminary (1712).
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| Inside the Cathedral |
Stop 7. Walk
down Via Sant’ Antonio and take a
rest at the only other surviving wall remnant before deciding whether to bus it
back to the marina or stop for a “refreshing ale” at one of the outdoor cafes
surrounding Piazza Roma. We took the
bus, but stopped at the marina bar instead – balm for our aching feet either way!
