Walking Tour

Oristano

A mix-up with our paperwork (we’re from Australia - not outer space, though sometimes it feels like it) initially had us confined to WJ3 with visits allowed – no overnights – to Oristano only…   Fortunately, the Police rang back later and confirmed that we were indeed “acceptable” travellers and to fill our boots so as to speak (but not with concrete you understand!).

WJ3 in her silted-up Torre Grande Marina berth

Being Friday and needing a few things, we combined a visit to nearby Oristano with our chores, and as it turned out, had a great day in a normal, almost tourist-free town.   

 

Sardinia has a long history given the number of mysterious nuraghic structures (1800 BC) dotted around the island.   Add to this evidence of successive waves of settlement and invasion by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Spanish, Italian, Austrian and quite possibly a few others – all enough to make your ancient history head spin.  Oristano features strongly in all this with nearby Sinis Peninsular home to Tharros, an ancient port settled by the Phoenicians and later an important stop on the Marseilles to Carthage trading route.  Dating from the middle ages, Oristano has connections with Eleonora d’Arborea (1340-1404), a “Joan of Arc” style figure who contributed much to Sardinia’s advancement, particularly in civil rights.  So we felt we couldn’t have landed in a better place to start exploring.  So here’s your walking tour of Oristano’s main sights:

Torre di Mariano - once a gate in massive walls

Stop 1.  Make for Piazza Roma and admire the 13^th c Torre di Mariano II, once the medieval Oristano’s north gate (1290) and part of the town wall – another massive structure, most of which has since been demolished.  The tower, crenelated and backless, is topped by a massive bronze bell. 

The Museum is full of interesting finds

Stop 2.  Walk through narrow Via Parpaglia, passing (but not noticing) a derelict 16^th Casa di Eleonora. Admire an interesting theatre building before moving on to the Antiquarium  Arborense.  This treasure-hold of archaeological finds from the province is housed in a charming merchant’s house fronting on to leafy Piazza Corrias.   The museum, brimming with artefacts was a delight and the staff friendly & very helpful.  After seeing displays of Tharros we hoped to find time to explore this amazing site too.

A robust Santa Chiara & Convent

Stop 3.  Backtrack to Via Garibaldi to pass Santa Chiara, a 14^th c church said to be the burial place of Eleonora; actually it’s her aunt.  (The church is part of a Convent complex and permission is needed to tour it.)  A little further on is another survivor of the city’s defences, the squat Portixedda; one of two towers, it stood guard on the western approaches to the city. 

Portixedda

Stop 4.  From here our trusty tour guide took us on a “protracted” route skirting the old city.  Better to backtrack to Via Lamarmora and stay inside the old city.  Stop on the way in Via Carmine to admire the old church near the University building.  From here, circle the block.  (No!  Not that way!  The Cap’n is adrift again.)  With any luck, and a few very tall palm trees for guidance, you should end up in Piazza Eleonora.

Eleonora stands proud

 Stop 5.  Sit here for a while in the late afternoon sun with the old folk under the statue of Eleonora (1881) and admire the buildings surrounding the piazza, including the Municipio (Town Hall).  Walk with locals as they perform the ritual afternoon stroll (passeggiata) – a pre-dinner requisite.  Whilst here, pick up a few more pamphlets at the Tourist Office.  More things to see whilst in Sardinia.  Discover that a Textile Museum and Tharros are well out of cycling range.  Our guide, who much prefers boats, sighs with relief….

Duomo's Bell Tower - note ugly faces under the dome

 
Stop 6.  At the top of Piazza Eleonora turn to take in the view of San Francesco’s solid white Ionic columns and the Duomo’s (13^th c) magnificent “onion-roofed” bell tower.  This tower is a taster for the cathedral’s glitzy interior; a mix of many styles with lots of gilt, marble, paint and impassioned religious statuary. It is extraordinarily overwhelming –as of course, it was meant to be.  Attached to the complex is the stunning seminary (1712).

Inside the Cathedral

Stop 7.  Walk down Via Sant’ Antonio and take a rest at the only other surviving wall remnant before deciding whether to bus it back to the marina or stop for a “refreshing ale” at one of the outdoor cafes surrounding Piazza Roma.  We took the bus, but stopped at the marina bar instead – balm for our aching feet!