Sailing with the Ancients

The Strait of Messina, Italy

Time to move on again!  We made an early start through the narrow strait that separates Vulcano from Lipari, the most established of the Aeolians.  In the distance we could  see Stromboli, hazy in the early morning light.  Belching, puffing Stromboli is considered the first “lighthouse”; a unique marker for ancient sailors to warn that the Straits of Messina were close by.  It is best seen at night for its firework display.  However we had no desire to add another night to our sailing schedule and turned left to do battle with Charybdis, Scylla and the Cyclops, three of Ulysses adversaries. 

Gulet (a Turkish design) anchored off the Strait for lunch

The narrow strait, full of eddies and whirlpools, sets up an unusual current – one minute it was with us and the next against.  (Check the unusual tide chart of the area).  We easily crossed the shipping lanes, fortunately deserted on a Sunday, to hug the east coast or Italy’s big toe.  It was an exhilarating ride, especially dodging those big car ferries connecting Sicily to the mainland.  One sight that added a further sense of fantasy to the “Straits experience” was the strange swordfish fishing boats.  We saw two, remarkably dexterous, darting around what remains of Charybdis (that whirlpool!).  These boats are controlled from a high tower where the driver sits to spot fish.  A crewman stands on a very long bowsprit (sometimes longer than the boat itself) with a harpoon.  One can’t help but wonder what Ulysses would have made of them.  Sadly, the Cap’n refused to cross back over the shipping lanes and bastardi (no, tidal eddies not the Cap’n!) for a decent photo…... 

Swordfishing boat doing the daily slog

And so it was, we floated in relatively calm waters for three days and two nights.  Once out of Italy’s land mass we did pick up a decent breeze that lasted through both nights – more or less.  As luck would have it, we had the Tyrrhenian Sea to ourselves with only a little passing traffic, mostly in the distance.    

Bastardi in action - on a good day!

Sites around Italy's big toe

Last Italian landfall

We were ever so pleased to finally make our port of entry, Pylos, in the sheltered natural harbour of Navarino Bay, Greece.  

From:  Isole Vulcano, Italy Lat/Long: 38:24.897N 14:56.739E Date/Time: 21/07/13: 0730

To: Pylos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:55.324N 21:42.073E Date/Time: 23/07/13: 1500
Time Taken: 357nm (55.5hrs) Distance (this year): 1777nm (283hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 12602nm   Weather: NW 10-12kts avg;
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts; few clouds at night and hazy during day; full moon