Arts & Antiquities

Mallorca, Spain

After a few more days on anchor, swimming and lighting up WJ3’s bbq (for the first time in ages), we took a night trip over to Mallorca.  Why?  You may well ask…  During the day, fresh breezes ensured a bumpy on-the-nose ride but at night, calm returned.  Even so, we managed to pick up a decent breeze to sail into Puerto de Andraitx by 5.30am and watch the sunrise.  Andraitx had a nasty swell in the outer harbour and the inner harbour “anchorage” was full of expensive mooring balls. 

Swimming at Santa Ponca

So, with general approval, we turned tail and motored on to Santa Ponca (Pon sa), a delightful, well protected cala full of Palma’s day-trippers.  The water was clear, calm and warm so we hunkered down, eventually creeping further in for even better protection and warmer water.  By the weekend, we must have had 50 fellow boaters at anchor, few of whom waved or shared the expected cruising bonhomie.  

Finally we discovered a dinghy dock (of sorts – on a rocky ledge west of Calo d’en Pellicer & east of the ‘balcony” restaurants) and suffered our first petty theft in seven years – a paddle, of all things…  Santa Ponca though, is known for far more noble things, having in 1229 protected the combined fleets of Aragon and Catalonia.  King Conquistador, Jaime 1, then succeeded in driving out the Moors from Mallorca.  A stone cross near the harbour entrance marks this significant event.

The hat says Altea, but the head says Soller...   Where am I today?

The Motley Crew however were intent on a day of sightseeing and had selected a trip on a little vintage train.  Since 1912, it has clacky-clacked its way from Palma through a very steep but scenic Serra de Tramuntana to arrive in the picturesque village of Soller. 

Tram at Puerto de Soller

From the train station we simply leapt aboard an equally vintage electric tram (not before spotting a tempting little patisserie) to make our way further downhill (2km) to the small but attractive Port.  Here we revived ourselves with coffee (and a little shopping) before heading back uphill to lunch (not ham & cheese rolls again!) in the leafy main square.  We sat a while enjoying the ambience and admiring an impressive Cathedral and robust Town Hall.  Then, after spending up big at the patisserie on alcohol drenched cakes and a bottle of the local tipple, Hierbas de Mallorca  (very beneficial for the health, although it looks like green poison), we discovered an amazing little museum under the train station. 

Soller's Cathedral off the main square

It seems that one of the Railway workers had amassed a collection of Picasso ceramic works and kindly loaned them for the general public’s edification.  In adjoining rooms, there is an equally impressive collection of Miro’s whimsical prints on display.  Miro had a studio in Palma and it is understood that he travelled to Soller for inspiration. 

Picasso's happy face

This region has been quite the drawcard for artists and writers; nearby Deia was home to Robert Graves (author of “I, Claudius”).  Spain in general seems to have been a bit of a hotbed for those artistically gifted.  During our wanderings, we’ve seen works by Picasso, Goya, Salvador Dali, Velasquez, Miro and Juan Gris to name but a few.  We’ve found many of these works in smaller, regional galleries which afford us an opportunity to get up close and personal.  Not to mention, take lots and lots of photos…  And whilst waiting, the Cap’n improved his mind with lots and lots of reading.

Our guests' sad faces.  It's time to go... 
Wait!  They're looking happy!  And they've left their luggage behind....

From:  San Antonio, Ibiza  Lat/Long: 38:58.264N 01:18.016E Date/Time: 1/07/13: 1400

To: Santa Ponca, Mallorca Lat/Long: 39:30.851N 02:28.375 Date/Time: 3/07/13: 0720
Time Taken: 77.5nm (12.5hrs) Distance (this year): 729nm (115.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 11554nm   Weather: NE generally 6-10kts; calm & flat;
Fastest Speed: Speed?  What speed?  Aquarium-like waters but little marine life