Time Warp…Again

Lagos, Portugal

Actually, this is how we play up in Portimao

Well, here we are, in the marina at Lagos, playing the waiting game (and rather enjoying it).  Boat bits are the issue, as usual.  So, let me start with the weather.

The Atlantic has been a bit stirred up this year due to an exceptional hurricane season and some late tropical storms.  After sitting in Faro for a few days, we spotted an opportunity to get across to Madeira, and made our move to Portimao to clear out and stock up on fresh food for the hopefully, not-too-exciting 3 or 4 days crossing.  The day’s forecast offered a pleasant sail with 10-15kt breeze to help us along.  Even Faro’s Charybdis was caught napping at sunrise.  All seemed well; we were hurtling along to Portimao, when the Cap’n, working the main, heard a loud bang. 

Whatever it was, was not immediately obvious so we continued on to the Portimao Marina and checked in.  Next morning, our trusty Cap’n discovered damage at the base of the mast – a fitting supporting the mast and vang had corroded and given way exposing two bolts – and that sent us into a bit of a spin.  At best we could have more bolts drilled to secure the fitting to the deck or at worst, have the whole mast lifted and a new fitting inserted.  Further pressure was added given His Captainship’s 3-month visa (EU) was nearly up!

Alongside Sopromar's dock, Lagos_early morning calm 

Sopromar kindly managed to fit us in and a few days later, following consultation with Pedro and Paolo, the situation expertly rectified with a custom fitting installed and welded over the mast base (technical details will be on the H460 site).  The Cap’n of the Never-Ending Chore List has not been dragged off to police cells – just yet.  We are very cosy now in the Lagos Marina, despite rather chilly nights, and with the old town just across the river, a supermarket a short walk away and Sunday Roast on offer at Marina restaurants, who would not?   

There's time to catch up on chores

And a little time to relax_with Dive Club Cipreia

We’re hoping the parcel of boat bits manages to arrive this week (before those dock lines become too tight) and we can pick up another opportunity to hit the big blue.

Let the Season Begin

Lagos, Portugal

So, here we are, in the Sopromar boatyard yet again, facing up to the start of another season of that enviable “boating life”.  The Cap’n has of course, been here for months working on getting the Other Woman into shape for her trip back to the Americas.  As she is heading for home, Miss Windjammer does need to look her best.  Progress however is slow and we currently sit amidst the innards of a new fridge/freezer.  Decked out Rambo-style in cross-body coils of electrical wire, tubes, power tools and switches, the Cap’n means serious business as the end of our time here in Portugal looms. Details of his foray into the bowels of the boat will eventually, along with observations of his work undertaken in 2016, make its way onto the H460 site.  But don’t hold your breath for that to be published any time soon….

Our season at home 2016/17, has been somewhat challenging and despite our best efforts, we have been neglectful beyond measure to family, friends and neighbours.  Despite such neglect, Team Dangar kicked in to get the Galley Slave off Island with at least a modicum of (in)sanity in place and Boy Wonder, with a now Herculean to-do list, ensured she made her early, early morning flight with time to spare.  Josephine & Tavis kindly kept her awake and plied with wine as we defied gravity and turbulence winging our way to Faro.  Lastly, a heart-pounding drive with the Cap’n back to Lagos reminded us it was right to be on our way.  Heartfelt thanks to all.  The plan is to be back in Oz on or before May 2018 depending where we haul out.  Then we can set about remedying our neglect and any performance discrepancies, although Christmas cards will most certainly NOT make it out again this year.  However, we will be thinking of you all as we bob our way across the briny.

For now, we’ll continue on with a demanding daily schedule then end each day watching the sun go down over a somewhat cool Lagos.  The vantage point here from the boatyard is a delight, especially on a Sunday when all is quiet.  So, with a cold Vinho Verde in hand (as one must!) we salute to our time in the Med and look forward to challenges ahead.  On with the Show, this is it….

Dawn over a very calm Rio Bensafrim (at 7.30am)

The Lagos Fishing Fleet on a Sunday Morning

Lunch in Lagos

Oh dear, here's troubles....

It’s always fun to host friends on board, even if only for a day AND in the sanctuary of a very cozy marina!  Laurie & Leigh, adventurers extraordinaire, managed a day in their busy schedule to take the train down from Lisbon - for a relaxed lunch on board naturally!

Sadly, they didn’t get to see too much of Lagos but did manage to escape before our Cap’n pulled out the polish for a shed-load (perhaps that should be a boat load) of stainless steel needing attention.  A smart move indeed….

Now this beats driving

Lagos Marina on a lovely sunny day

Into the Jet Stream

Not much of a conversationalist...but a welcome hitchhiker

Well, we were now on a mission – Lagos or Bust!  Our trip from Stintino (Sardinia) started out well.  We had a friendly hitchhiker (a little bird) stop with us for some time and a huge whale potted about (as they do) on the edge of the continental shelf looking for a snack.  Our last eight hours turned sour though as the wind and an accompanying swell hit us - side on.  Yes, we could have changed course but the result would have been an African landing not Spanish. We were set on arriving in the Balearic Islands, so the Cap’n took charge of the slalom ride whilst GS gripped her bucket firmly.  We arrived eventually at a wonderful anchorage, Cala Taulela, (Menorca) and after removing a cuttlefish from the deck and seaweed from the head, calm was restored sufficiently to sleep soundly.   

Finding a calm & restful anchorage at Cala Taulela, Menorca

Mahon, Menorca

Town Dock & friendly Mermaid at Mahon

Next day was recovery day, so we headed off into town for a “proper” English breakfast, another of those treats we’d really been missing…  At the dock we came across a big “poser” boat.  For the technical minded, it can do 50kts but uses about 1000L per hour – we use 4L.  It also had the capacity to shoot a rooster tail 10m in the air.  Feeling most inadequate, we jumped into Bruce for a bit of coastal property speculation.  Some rather lovely homes dot Mahon bay, a tempting location where you might toy with settling– until reality and tyranny of distance hits. Oh, and lack of funds!

Window shopping along Mahon Harbour

Those mansions look quite small to me... 
You wouldn't like them, I'm sure!

We crossed from Menorca to Mallorca in almost perfect calm, heading for an initial stop at Porto Colom, another well protected anchorage.  Nosing about, looking for an anchorage we came across one of those crabby boating itinerants, who shouted at us.  Now the Cap’n just thought he was being friendly, so the GS, up at the bow, translated his Spanglish to English, much to the amusement of the anchorage.  Having circled once, the Cap’n still uncertain of the intended message circled him again.  Now, that’s really like poking a pig dog in the eye with a stick – not a good thing!  Meaning clear at last, we moved well away.

Taking the challenging route into Santa Ponsa

Our next day took us (and a whole raft of butterflies) to one of our favourite anchorages, Santa Ponsa.  Here we noted an Aussie 80” Oyster "Free Spirit", whose owner came by and said hello.  Nice!  This was only the second Aussie boat (the other, Hugo, at Le Grazie) we had seen this year.  They must all be in Greece?  We then shouted ourselves a dinner out (roast lamb, no less) to sustain ourselves for an early morning crossing to Ibiza.  San Antonio proved to be busier than we last remembered (3 years ago) and with a wind blowing into the anchorage, we upped stakes moving further into the bay.  Knowing that San An had supermarkets close at hand, and ahead of us we had at least 3 or 4 anchorages along the Spanish mainland coast, we wanted the fridge (or that part still functioning!) full. 

You can get an idea of the size of these cliffs along the coast of
Ibiza by looking for the copper coloured sailboat anchored at its foot.

San Antonio (a thoroughly wild town) & a space-age Spanish ferry

By now, the quest for Vinho Verde was driving us on. (Vinho Verde, Portugal’s green wine, or green s**t - affectionately coined I’m sure, John!)  So, with the weather in our favour and conditions much improved since leaving the Mistral behind, we started to do big steps, knowing that there were plenty of marinas at hand should we need to seek shelter.  Finally, the Rock (Gibraltar) came into sight, so we rested at La Linea Marina until the tide and winds were right to escape through the Straits (with 25kts pushing us past Tarifa) and pop back out into the Atlantic.  Ah, the Atlantic, bringing back those vague memories of tidal action and swell.  A last ditch effort brought us straight to Lagos and we tucked up into a cosy marina berth just before a rather nasty weather system arrived from the NW bringing 30+kt winds.   

Raging & serious bushfires along the Spanish Coast - the specks are planes
dropping water on the fires - there were 6 planes, all working together.

Is it a rock or a prehistoric monster
(after having a sneak peek at Medusa?)

Calm seas at night

And a few friends came to cheer us along the way

So, here we are, balanced on the very edge of Portugal, cleaning WJ3 until she sparkles and getting ready to haul out after 5 years in the Med – with our minds half wondering what next year will bring. 

(After haul out, we make for Barcelona for a few days sightseeing, so the blog will continue for a wee bit yet!)

Finding Moitessier's "Joshua" at La Linea Marina
Or is it just a copy?

We're getting close!  Early morning calm as we arrived at La Linea to dock.
Then it blew up, reaching 25kts very quickly!

Socially Acceptable at Last

Even More Nav Plans

The Motley’s are excited to announce that we again have (some very brave) crew arriving in June to help us sail to the Balearics.  Obviously it only takes one to start the ball rolling.  GS (aka Chief Navigator) has made these plans to get us from Gibraltar to Menorca with a little sightseeing in between….( weather & time permitting):

Our planned cruising area

Gibraltar.  We will leave our guests to climb the Rock, talk to monkeys and wander down historic streets.  When we’re ready, we’ll hit the magenta line.  Needless to say, we also plan to stock up on goodies that promise to be hard to find once we’re underway, such as British beef & lamb, mint sauce, creamed honey and marmalade.  Thank goodness for our WAECO.

Smir, Morocco.  We loved exploring Chefchaouen so much with BCK we are hoping our guests don’t mind taking time for a ride up to into the Rif Mountains with us.  We can, after sipping mint tea, stroll through the famed blue village and visit its walled medina.

Cueta, Spain.  We’ll take a stop at this interesting Spanish enclave on the African coast to stock up on groceries and wait out tides and winds to cross the Gibraltar Straits.  Then let the day hopping along the Spanish “Costa del Sol” begin.

Costa del Sol, Spain.  Our main stop will be Fuengirola Marina.  From here we can explore Roman ruins and palaeolithic caves in Ronda; walk through Mijas, one of the famed Andalucían white villages; and then catch a train to Granada to explore the famous Alhambra and Generalife Gardens.  I’m sure we’ll have time to snack on tapas, dance flamenco and taste head-spinning local vinho (it will be the cheap stuff JD – so prepare yourself!).  Nearby Malaga also has the Museo Picasso, so be prepared for a little culture hit too!

Costa Blanca, Spain.  A few more day stops to Cartagena, a famous old town and our base to explore this coast.  After days of being turisticos, we will anchor to R&R in the Mar Menor, a shallow inland sea.

Costa del Azahar, Spain.  Last stop along mainland Spain’s orange blossom coast will be Valencia where we can hunt for the Holy Grail, said to be in the Cathedral there.  We can also prepare ourselves for the party and sun worshippers that flock to the Balearic Islands over a plate or two of paella. 

Ibiza, Mallorca & Menorca, Spain.  Hopefully we’ll have time and weather to enjoy the good life as we anchor in narrow calas, eat at beach cafes and swim in clear blue waters.  Somebody famous lives here for sure but I don’t think we’ll really care…

A hectic schedule?  Of course!  We hope the crew approve and it's always open to discussion and weather dependant!  Meanwhile the Motley's are busy preparing WJ3 for her Monday morning splash (27th May).  From Lagos we will slowly make our way to Gibraltar, so keep your eye on our tracker & map. (Let's make that a 28th May splash - the steaming light's not working & that means another trip to the top of the mast for our Cap'n.)

Slow Boating

Lagos, Portugal

The Algarve is known for its sunshine.  Not this week!  We even had thunderstorms rumbling by yesterday. There’s an enormous Hanse 531 next to us in the yard and we hoped that his (rather larger) mast would take the brunt of any lightning strikes.  Good looking and useful too!

Joy Riding the Grottoes

So now we’re busy at cleaning up chores, doing a few minor repairs and monitoring the last of the bow-thruster installation tasks.  Any wonder we’re still driving a 12 year old Larry Astra….  This said the Cap’n is at the end of upgrades - maintenance only from now on.  Sure.

Amazing what you find. Roman bridge and stonework from an old Roman tower.

On Saturday, the sun came out and those devilish Nortada winds abated – well, for a few hours at least.  The Cap’n and Mate downed tools and went to explore the local farmer’s market (snails, bunnies, guinea pigs not to mention ducks and plenty of chickens).  There’s also plenty of fresh local fruit and vege and someone always seems to be running a fundraising table laden with exotic cakes and slices.  

Lightheaded and in a jovial holiday mood, the Motleys took a Grotto Tour.  It’s just as well!  Bruce would not have been happy dancing in and out of caves, squeezing through tiny cavities in rock formations (with very strange names) and surfing over submerged rocks.  Sometimes, local know-how is essential.  As our local boat captain said, “My head is all the GPS I needed to negotiate these waters”.  Well, we hope that’s what he was saying to us (in Portuguese)!

           

(This is a cat-o-tel set up by a local charity at the back of the Fishermen's Harbour to care for cats that are dumped along the beach area.  They're very friendly cats (not ferals) and were just so happy for a tummy scratch.)

Final Fling: Lisbon

Lagos, Portugal: hauled out 26 October 2012

Itinerary Lagos, Portugal: 26 October 2012 is Haul out time.  Lagos has an old town to explore, more than a few restaurants and a nice beach 2 minutes from the boatyard.  Other activities - as time permits!

Arade looks just fine through a camera lens...but it certainly was NOT!

“Be brave, my trusty (about to mutiny again) crew!” said Cap’n Fearless as we headed off into a 3 metre, very nasty swell coming in through the Arade River entrance.  Once out of the river, and recovered, we settled down for a short, easy sail into Lagos.  

Better still, we tied up at a quiet Sopromar Boatyard dock, said hello to our favourite duck friends and then ran off to have hot, hot showers.  Life was good!  WJ3 too, was primped (a quick check-over) in preparation for an early morning haul out.  In our absence, Sopromar had purchased a new toy – a remotely controlled travel lift.  Our friendly crane operator looked as if he was busy playing an X-Box. “Look mum, no hands” as WJ3 swung like a baby in straps.  

Time for the girls to play then!  So we did...

Monument to the Discoveries - Vasco da Gama sailed for India from here in 1497

Rather than stay a week in Lagos cleaning, BCK & GS made a run for the train station and headed off to Lisbon.  Here we sat on the big red bus, now an obligatory ride, before a bit of free-wheeling touristico-ing around the old city, taking in as many sights as we could in our 3 days of freedom. 

We ate well down Baixa's Rua Augusta

We ate pastel de nata for breakfast, lunch and dinner, sampled seafood, strong coffee and other Lisbon specialities, shopped in stylish boutiques - all easily reached from our centrally located hotel.  As a final fling, we invaded a hair salon for a little Portuguese pampering, only to emerge looking like Stepford Wives extras.

Tram to Bairro Alto & a quick walking (shopping) tour

Too soon, it was back to WJ3. Somehow we managed to get her ship-shape and still have time for a few hours of touring, shopping, visiting local markets (sadly no snail sellers - it was a public holiday) and making friends at LazyJacks marina-side before it was time to board our BA flight home.     

Cataplana straight from Lagos's best kept secret - Alkibir

Having made London, we managed a whirlwind tour of the underground.  Getting to Heathrow wasn’t easy and we made three train changes, with our luggage during peak hour.  Still we whisked past “Monopoly” stops that one day we hoped to get back to see – London Bridge, Westminster, Earl’s Court.  Enticing as it was, we just wanted to get home.

From: Portimao, Portugal   Lat/Long: 37:06.72N  08:31.34W   Date/Time: 25/10/12: 1400
To: Lagos, Portugal Lat/Long: 37:06.44N  08:40.26W   Date/Time: 26/10/12: 0930
Time Taken: 6nm (1.5hrs) Distance (this year): 584nm (92hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 10821nm   Weather: 3m SW swell; cold, wet and windy
Fastest Speed: Too busy looking at the size of the waves to notice.  Thought they’d be perfect for surfing.

Cats 'n Bags

Lagos, Portugal

Well don’t look now, but I think we are about to splash – any day soon – truly! 

We took advantage of a windless day and put sails up.  The Cap’n has been tinkering with WJ3’s engines and our credit card made the yard bill go away; painless for now.   Yes, the cat may well be out of the bag….

Even the boatyard ducks are talking about us....

Storking Off

Welcome to Faro's Old City

Faro, Portugal

Another week, another cultural event!  This one by train to Faro, situated mid-way along the curve of the Algarve coast.  Faro’s history goes back to prehistoric times; surrounding marshland and barrier islands providing protection and a ready food supply for stone-age types.  Romans settled here too calling their port city Ossonoba and later the town continued to prosper under Moorish occupation.  Afonso III recaptured the city in 1249, returning it to Portuguese possession only to have it sacked and burned by the Earl of Essex in 1596.  Despite damage from the 1755 earthquake, Faro was designated the Algarve capital (in lieu of Lagos) in 1756.  Now it supports an international airport, accommodates a thriving tourist industry, guards the flanks of huge nature reserve, and remains a busy administrative centre.  We thought Faro retains a distinctly Portuguese character (despite an influx of Brits) and having sat in the train rattling over Mediterranean scenery of rolling hills, orange groves, grape vines and small subsistence farms, we thought we had a better appreciation for the Algarve’s personality too.

Faro's Small Boat Harbour with train along its walls

We began our tour with coffee (in the Portuguese style of course) overlooking the boat harbour and walls of the old city.  A few masts stood high out in the lagoon’s calm waters; there is no marina in Faro, it’s far too shallow.  Refreshed, we sauntered around the old walls before exploring narrow cobbled streets within.  The Bishop’s Palace and Se (Cathedral) flank a large open square lined with orange trees, groaning with fruit.  An old man sat under one, calmly watching the day to day goings on, his quiet reverie disturbed briefly by a grey tabby asking permission to share his perch. 

Renaissance Era Convent

Next we visited the Municipal Museum housed in a former convent.  The picturesque two storey Renaissance cloister (1540) houses a collection of grand paintings of saints, religious statuary and coats of arms, heavily carved in stone.  Modern exhibitions, including a stunning paper collaged face by graffiti artist Mollek, contrasted with marble busts of stern-looking Roman emperors.  One of Faro’s best local finds however was a 3^rd c mosaic floor dug from the mud near the railway station.  Poseidon it seems, favours sea ports, fisherman and their boats (hopefully sail boats too!) through many ages.

I say darling, it's a great view from our nest up here!

After taking lunch in a shady square, we walked on through the Arco da Vila, an arch built on the site of a medieval castle gate.  Huge storks, it seems, have a fondness for local marshes, bell towers, chimneys and historical buildings.  A serene pair enjoyed their splendid view from on high above the Arco da Vila.

Cherubs everywhere!

Lunch is taken seriously in Faro; many of the museums did not reopen until 2.30 or even 3, so we were forced to linger by the harbour-side.  Beer prices here were certainly not the same as happy hour in Lagos, the Cap’n noted!   We whiled away a little more time walking through the pedestrianised shopping area, rather larger than Lagos and busier than Portimao, before heading to the Ethnographic Museum.  GS was hoping for a textile fix, and it was to some degree, but focused on weaving, braiding and basketry.  A special exhibition was devoted to naturopathic medicines, mostly herbal, but Cap’n Claw was not inspired to try one for his still sensitive wrist.

Ingreja do Carmo & cobbled square

Our final stop was the Ingreja do Carmo (not another church) but this one held a surprise.  Aside from an over-the-top, gold leaf clad, Baroque interior, it housed a small chapel built from the bones of monks.  Yes, 1245 skulls line the interior walls and ceilings; leg or arm bones add a further “decorative” touch.  A cemetery around the church was partly removed in 1816, in the name of progress no doubt, and the Chapel of Bones built as a memorial to remind sinners of their destiny.  A sign above the doorway asks of its visitors, “Stop here and think of this fate that will befall you.”  

I think I'm being watched?

On that philosophical note, we made for the station (wondering what other ruins, Roman or otherwise, lay beneath its floors) and snored our way back to Lagos in the afternoon heat.  We’re really getting into living this local life….

Not Another Loop

Lagos, Portugal

Having successfully completed one cultural foray, it was soon time for another – only on two wheels not four.  This time we intended to explore locally and the Cap’t agreed, on the proviso that said excursion included a “full English breakfast” (rather too easy to find in this part of the world!). 

Up-River Lagos

Lagos is a port town of Roman origin on the Rio Bensafrim. Later, Moors built a fort here to service Al-Gharb, the western edge of their Islamic empire.  The town too was greatly involved in Prince Henry’s exploratory endeavours, providing a protective harbour, shipyard and source of experienced seamen (most probably fishermen who quickly learnt to sail the superfast caravels). Local sailor, Gil Eanes of Lagos was the first to round Cape Bojador to open up the Africa coast for further exploration.  Once trade routes were established, Lagos merchants went in search of spices, gold and slaves.  The town grew to become the capital of the Algarve (1576-1756) until its unfortunate demise in the 1755 earthquake.

Forte Ponta da Bandeira

We started with the 17^th century and at the foot of the harbour.  Tiny Forte Ponta da Bandeira had an amazing azulejos-covered chapel and inventive modern wind sculptures on the roof.  Sadly, we learned little about the fort itself, but rather were swept along in some longstanding rivalry over Prince Henry’s navigation school and discussion about whether indeed Henry was a man of science.  Quelle horreur! You mean the man didn’t have a degree or two!

A small chapel within the fortifications

Small town politics aside, we rode on out to Ponta de Piedale. From this windblown precipice, we had an excellent view of clear water grottoes and sandstone karst “‘islands” far below.  This was clearly part of the well-trodden tourist trail and given the crowds, we suspected a cruise ship had docked in Portimao. 

Trippin' the Grottoes

Back to the old city, we biked around the narrow cobbled streets, trying to keep the 16^th c ramparts in view.  This led us away from tourist haunts and into neighbourhoods of tiny terraced homes, some built against those sheltering walls.  We couldn’t make our way into the Governor’s Castle with its hospital barricade however managed to find Santo Antonio, an 18^th c church given completely over to a museum. The church interior is flowering baroque; a swathe of blue azulejos, carvings of exuberant cherubs (well-endowed young ladies rather than mere chubby-cheeked babes, I might add!) and a tangle of shrubbery, painted and gilded within an inch of its life.  Behind is a busy collection of ephemera that seems more “boy’s room” than museum. Fossils, shells, coins, stamps, paintings, African, Roman and prehistoric artefacts are all crammed in. Thankfully, any pickled beasts (with 3 eyes or 7 legs) in jam jars were hidden from view.  GS would like to have known more about weaving and lace samples but docents were busy humouring groups. 

Back Streets of Lagos - within the old city walls and a delight to walk

Back out into the Algarve’s dazzling daylight, we walked downhill to the square where Henry the Navigator sits, amid fountains and contemporary sculptures, contemplating the meaning of life in these modern times.  

After a quick run through Santa Maria, the Parish Church of Lagos and a walk beside 8^th c Moorish wall segments to the Regimental Stores, we were ready for some afternoon refreshments.  “Not before we see the 1441 Slave Market” said GS.  With a few African beads, a skeleton, cardboard covered walls and a slowly morphing face of Henry, we were thankful for some written commentary on Portugal’s participation in slavery at least. They need not worry though, they certainly did not invent it.  Time for a beer…

Gil Eanes does Manga in the City Square

So we did and sat behind Henry wistfully looking out to sea and over the 4km of Meia Praia – the beach just behind WJ3, contemplating life beyond the boatyard.