Not Another Loop

Lagos, Portugal

Having successfully completed one cultural foray, it was soon time for another – only on two wheels not four.  This time we intended to explore locally and the Cap’t agreed, on the proviso that said excursion included a “full English breakfast” (rather too easy to find in this part of the world!). 

Up-River Lagos

Lagos is a port town of Roman origin on the Rio Bensafrim. Later, Moors built a fort here to service Al-Gharb, the western edge of their Islamic empire.  The town too was greatly involved in Prince Henry’s exploratory endeavours, providing a protective harbour, shipyard and source of experienced seamen (most probably fishermen who quickly learnt to sail the superfast caravels). Local sailor, Gil Eanes of Lagos was the first to round Cape Bojador to open up the Africa coast for further exploration.  Once trade routes were established, Lagos merchants went in search of spices, gold and slaves.  The town grew to become the capital of the Algarve (1576-1756) until its unfortunate demise in the 1755 earthquake.

Forte Ponta da Bandeira

We started with the 17^th century and at the foot of the harbour.  Tiny Forte Ponta da Bandeira had an amazing azulejos-covered chapel and inventive modern wind sculptures on the roof.  Sadly, we learned little about the fort itself, but rather were swept along in some longstanding rivalry over Prince Henry’s navigation school and discussion about whether indeed Henry was a man of science.  Quelle horreur! You mean the man didn’t have a degree or two!

A small chapel within the fortifications

Small town politics aside, we rode on out to Ponta de Piedale. From this windblown precipice, we had an excellent view of clear water grottoes and sandstone karst “‘islands” far below.  This was clearly part of the well-trodden tourist trail and given the crowds, we suspected a cruise ship had docked in Portimao. 

Trippin' the Grottoes

Back to the old city, we biked around the narrow cobbled streets, trying to keep the 16^th c ramparts in view.  This led us away from tourist haunts and into neighbourhoods of tiny terraced homes, some built against those sheltering walls.  We couldn’t make our way into the Governor’s Castle with its hospital barricade however managed to find Santo Antonio, an 18^th c church given completely over to a museum. The church interior is flowering baroque; a swathe of blue azulejos, carvings of exuberant cherubs (well-endowed young ladies rather than mere chubby-cheeked babes, I might add!) and a tangle of shrubbery, painted and gilded within an inch of its life.  Behind is a busy collection of ephemera that seems more “boy’s room” than museum. Fossils, shells, coins, stamps, paintings, African, Roman and prehistoric artefacts are all crammed in. Thankfully, any pickled beasts (with 3 eyes or 7 legs) in jam jars were hidden from view.  GS would like to have known more about weaving and lace samples but docents were busy humouring groups. 

Back Streets of Lagos - within the old city walls and a delight to walk

Back out into the Algarve’s dazzling daylight, we walked downhill to the square where Henry the Navigator sits, amid fountains and contemporary sculptures, contemplating the meaning of life in these modern times.  

After a quick run through Santa Maria, the Parish Church of Lagos and a walk beside 8^th c Moorish wall segments to the Regimental Stores, we were ready for some afternoon refreshments.  “Not before we see the 1441 Slave Market” said GS.  With a few African beads, a skeleton, cardboard covered walls and a slowly morphing face of Henry, we were thankful for some written commentary on Portugal’s participation in slavery at least. They need not worry though, they certainly did not invent it.  Time for a beer…

Gil Eanes does Manga in the City Square

So we did and sat behind Henry wistfully looking out to sea and over the 4km of Meia Praia – the beach just behind WJ3, contemplating life beyond the boatyard.