Myths 'n Other Things

Paros, Greece

We’ve all seen them haven’t we?  Those glossy photos about sailing in Greece – perfect visibility, warm days, balmy nights and calm, deep blue waters.  This is our version of Greek Island cruising.

View over our anchorage in Pylos

Pylos was a wonderful introduction.  We were full of hope.  As we worked our way east, we were gently introduced to the foibles of weather systems in this area.  Hmmm…  Rounding Cape Maleas was a dream - early in the morning!  Then we met the Meltemi – head on.  Gentle in the early morning, building to something fierce by mid-day, dying in the evening.  In some places, replaced by nightly & often, not-so-gentle, katabatic winds. Anchoring was always a weather gamble.

Octopus Salad on the menu in Ermioni

Our float plan fell apart, several times.  We decided to make north; the latest scheme being to run with the winds behind us as we crossed the Aegean Islands to Turkey.  We hugged, full of hope, to the Peloponnese Peninsular and ended up, for respite, in Porto Kheli.   Next stop, Ermioni was unsettled.  Battered by land breezes during the day (to 30kts) and a rough swell at night (not to mention an “occupation” by a French Fleet and Sail Med Rally – full of 20-35 sweet young things), we stayed on only to catch the hydrofoil to Idra (Hydra) for a day trip.

Idra (four-legged taxis & blinding white houses)

The plan had been to leave Ermioni and sashay our way over to Kithnos, perhaps further. Not so! Our cantankerous Meltemi found us; on the nose again.  Our selected anchorage had more in common with a washing machine, so we rounded the cape and made for Poros instead.  Ah, Poros – home to at least 200 boats, so it had to be a weather escape.  It was, and we recouped over a quiet beer at a waterfront taverna. 

Delightful Poros

Full of confidence, we decided to make a run for Siros.  That lasted 10 minutes…  The Meltemi was furious and eventually GS begged for mercy (a real bucket day it was too!).  Our trusty skipper took us into Kithnos for shelter where we proceeded (twice) to give a doubtful display of anchoring in a rocky cove.  Our trusty anchor winch is still not talking to us…  Further in, by a sandy beach, we at last set the anchor.  Over dinner we hatched yet another plan to travel in the quiet of the night (read: in NO wind).  That was fine whilst we were in the lee (shelter) of the island.  Between rough conditions and vast numbers of other shipping afloat, our Brave Cap’n, stood watch all night.  So, here we are in Paros, recuperating and preparing for another night (or two) before we reach Turkey.

Our neighbours in Paros. They didn't wave as they flew by

Let’s hope things improve, otherwise that large cruise ship at anchor with us here in the bay might just have another passenger or two.  So, anyone contemplating a little Greek sojourn with us had better think again.  Certainly never agree to July or August…..  

Monastery in what was once a secluded location - not now!

PS. Conditions did not improve.  The Cap'n made yet another overnight solo sail all the way through to Pserimos, whilst GS continued to heave ho below decks - despite the Meltemi easing somewhat as we made east.  The Cyclades Islands (obviously named after summer’s cyclonic conditions) provided us with choppy seas, a short, steep swell and confused wind patterns.  Never again… ;-)

From:  Porto Kheli, Greece Lat/Long: 37:19.409N 23:08.975E Date/Time: 4/08/13: 0830

To: Pserimos, Greece Lat/Long: 36:56.165N 27:09.179E Date/Time: 10/08/13: 1710
Time Taken: 262.5nm (40hrs) Distance (this year): 2234nm (356hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13059nm   Weather: NE to NW  15-25kts; G to 30kts
Fastest Speed: 7.5kts; a bumpy, rollicking ride