Poseidon's Revenge

Korinthos Yacht Harbour, Greece

After a bit of reflection, it's now back to the voyage so far.  Let's start from Chios.

Up for an early departure in Chios

Refining Nav plans yet again
(photo by Jenny on Far Away)

Having left the concrete bunker in Chios, we made a fine, if not long, day of it across to Andros.  All creatures were happy; including GS and two pods of industrious dolphins sweeping by, busy looking for a tasty snack or two.  None more so though, than our hitchhiker Sid, who sang his cicada love song with great gusto for the whole 91 miles!  He abandoned us quickly in Gavrion, no doubt to find romance and a suitable audience for his tales of daring-do.

Gavrion (Andros) is a busy dock and ferry terminal on the Cyclades route.  Its circular shape and steep hills behind would have been perfect inspiration for Greek theatre construction.  Sound carried effortlessly and we wondered if many village secrets were betrayed as a result.  Enormous ferries used our anchorage as something of a turning circle, so finally we moved closer to shore (in shallower water) to alleviate grief on both parts.  The next morning, after Cap’n Devoted replaced a worn fan-belt on the engine, and as two ferries arrived in quick succession, we headed off under sail for Kea.

Gavrion on Andros

Oh, not more company in the anchorage...

Luckily we arrived in Kea early because predicted gentle north winds came, at 18kts, from the south and it was a bun-fight at the small anchorage. We managed to squeeze in avoiding the ire of Korissia Port Police who were determined to keep the ferry dock free from those idiotic enough to anchor there.  These ferries not only needed a turning circle, but also room to lay out giant anchors and vast quantities of chain – med moor style.  Again, we moved closer to the beach to keep out of harm’s way and settled in for a quiet night.  Given an evening of even more hectic anchoring goings-on, we decided not to stay and explore the island (and its Minoan Palace – largely rubble) but head over to Poros tucked up safely in the Saronic Gulf and celebrate our near-perfect Aegean Sea crossing.

Plans of anchoring at the foot of Poseidon’s Temple at Cape Sounion also went astray due to continued southerlies.  A sail past however was in order to pay respects to the ancient god of the seas.  Clearly our offering was not taken well (cheap Aussies!) because not long afterwards our main furling line snapped (in only 15 kts) necessitating a few unpleasant words and a rush of activity.  The silver lining was of course, a splendid opportunity to rummage about in every available chandlery and hardware shop.  Now, WJ3 sports a bright green furling line, perfect for the colour blind and suitable “sailing-for-dummies” material.

Boats of all sizes crowd the town dock in Poros

Having rested in Poros for a few very enjoyable days, we were ready to tackle the Corinth Canal transit, so made our way up to Aegina.  On the way, we paused briefly for a look at Methana, a quaint harbour and village, celebrated for its hot springs and sulphur baths.  An extinct volcano, all black and gloomy, towers above the village. 

Leaving the headland, we were smacked by blasts 18-20kts coming from the NW– not predicted, of course!  As our planned Aegina anchorage was exposed to this, we chose Salamis and its quiet, out-of-the-way township as a better place to hide.  Not before noticing scuttling clouds coming our way.  Could that be rain?  Yes, with a 30kt gale running before it…  Seatbelts on, hatches closed, we bounced, shuddered and crashed our way across the Saronic Gulf to Salamis.    

Salamis

Salamis is surrounded in part by military territory and despite being very close to Athens, appears not to be frequently visited by the likes of us.  It’s nice to experience a Greek town not set up to service tourists or vast charter fleets.  At the fisherman’s dock, beyond the long town promenade, grandly planted with palm trees, we found a supermarket and petrol station so were able to satisfy two urgent needs.  Historically, the island is no backwater having, in 480 BC, been the site of the decimation of Xerxes’ fleet (those dreaded Persians) – a much more powerful force – and thus a dramatic shift of power back to the West.

Next morning we set off for the canal, anchoring at Isthmia to observe procedures for negotiating this narrow, km of channel.  The canal dates back to Roman times (well, the idea for it) and Nero, using Jewish slaves, actually commenced digging.  Meanwhile, a wheeled platform  over a paved road carried boats across the isthmus and cargo, no doubt transferred by donkey and even more slave labour.  The current canal dates to 1890’s and is suitable now only for small commercial traders and pleasure craft.  Thus for WJ3 (all 14m), the transit cost was €240.  We reflected back on our Intra-Coastal Waterway experience in the US.  All canal and bridge transits were simply part of the experience.  Welcome to the Med, bring money….  Having made the canal exit (West) we made for nearby Corinth (Korinthos) and its yacht harbour to make plans for exploring a little more of the Peloponnese by land.

Transiting under bridges.
Parts of the old wall were still visible in some areas.

Nearly at the end

Bridge open; welcome to the Gulf of Korinthos

 

From: Poros, Greece Lat/Long: 37:30.235N 23:26.444E Date/Time: 15/07/14: 0920

To: Korinthos, Greece Lat/Long: 37:56.475N 22:56.202E Date/Time: 17/07/14: 1110
Time Taken: 62nm (13hrs) Distance (this year): 646nm (111hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13979nm   Weather: Variable & unpredictable
On leaving balmy Poros, held on through one blast of 20kts only to be severely trounced with 30kts.  
Fastest Speed: Find a protected anchorage & don’t spare the horses!

Jelly Bean Wars

Chios, Greece

Mesta

Despite cruel winds, we managed a day touring two of Chios’s famed mastic villages.  Mastic, or a gum resin is still refined from odd, scrubby trees that grow in the south.  It’s most famous use was in the manufacture of chewy sweets, and considered by the ladies of Istanbul’s harems something of an aphrodisiac.  When Chios withheld supplies (and the ladies’ needs were strong apparently), the incensed Turks set upon the Chiot. Numbers killed or enslaved were horrendous, many villages decimated (1822).  However a few rural, mastic producing villages, mastichochora, were preserved. 

One of the main gates into the complex village

We bussed to Mesta and took an hour to walk through this labyrinthine medieval and well-fortified village.  Cobbled streets, under vaulted tunnels of two storey houses, lead to a leafy town square set out with many eateries and a large Baroque style 18^th c church, Megas Taxarchis, said to be one of largest & wealthiest in Greece. 

 

Sadly, church gates were locked, so we continued following the robust village walls back to our bus stop.  Not before investigating a small craft shop, replete with loom.  GS was treated to a display of very fine weaving and allowed to wander through the cave-like premises, presumably once a home.

Patron Saint perhaps?  Mesta

Next stop, Pyrgi (peer gee). Here, village houses are covered in xysta, or a mesmerising mix of geometric patterns cut into white plaster.  Inside the maze of these fascinatingly decorated houses, we stumbled on the remnants of ancient village walls and just off from the village square, a complete surprise, the tiny, fresco covered 12^th c Ayii Apostoli (Church of the Holy Apostles).  These 17^th c frescoes, rendered in Chios folk-art style, are said to be the work of a Cretan artist and are in beautiful condition (no photos allowed).  To add further to the surprises held by this village, we discovered that families here claim descent from Christopher Columbus.  (Seafaring, now merchant navies, seems to be a traditional island occupation.)

Pyrgi - note the ropes of drying tomatoes & garlic

Bound by an infrequent bus service, we did not have time to dally, however on the way home through desolate rural landscapes, modest resorts and fabulous views across to Turkey we pondered how such a small island could host one of history’s most famous sons. Homer is said to have been born on the island (one of many such claims by similar contenders it would seem) but the northern village of Volissos appears the favoured site. 

Hardly room to park a motorbike

Xysta in perfect condition, everywhere

Days of Idyll (not quite)

Chios, Greece

WJ3 at the Town Dock, Mytilene, Greece

The day came to clear out of Turkey’s tranquil waters (so far, so good) and travel across to the Greek island of Lesbos.  We hoisted our Greek courtesy and yellow clearance (the only goodie two-shoes to fly one) flags and set sail for Mytilene, thankfully not far away.  

We were whistled into the immigration/customs dock by a rather attractive member of the Mytilene Port Police and the Cap’n dashed off to get his paperwork (carbon copied in triplicate) certified and cruising permits organised.  This took the rest of the day….

Greece but showing a distinct Italian flavour

With little daylight left, our plan to anchor on the island’s south – poised to cross to Chios early next day – were dashed; two choices then, marina or town dock.  At €6 per night for the dock, we thought we’d give town life a go.  We found ourselves in the heart of Mytilene and despite promenading townsfolk (a regular evening habit) and traffic, had only steps to take to restaurants, an exceedingly helpful Vodafone store (to arrange internet access) and pork sausages.  Whilst we enjoyed our stay in Turkey, Mytilene was like a breath of fresh air.

Sails up, leaning over & NO engine! Whoohoo!  Sailing downwind with the Meltemi.

We left early next morning, primarily to ensure GS did not strangle the lone bass guitarist, still playing to late night revellers at a near-by club.  The crossing to Chios was slow due to wind-crossing-current chop but eventually a decent breeze cropped up to give us a nice push down the coast.  With a few days of nasty winds forecast, we decided to check out an unfinished marina north of Chios Harbour.  Although all spaces had been taken on the quay, one of the fingers was free and we proceeded in with a truly spectacular docking display.  It took us all of 40 minutes to tie up (using winches) – side on in escalating 18-20kt winds.  The gathered collection of cruising yachties watched in silence; the other Aussie boat left next morning without a word or wave… 

Ancient Windmills seen from our unfinished marina berth, Chios

So here we are currently pinned, like bugs under glass.  In winds currently roaring over, gusting occasionally over 40kts.  For at least 3 more days (it’s been two already).  WJ3 is heeled over as if she’s on an ocean going passage, the Cap’n is making chafe collars for the now, 8 mooring lines and GS finds solace in the lee berth at night.  Ahhhh, the Meltemi has found us…..

Blowing a near gale (F7-8) in Chios

 

From: Ayvalik Turkey Lat/Long: 39:17.434N 26:39.884E Date/Time: 1/07/14: 0800
To: Chios, Greece Lat/Long: 38:23.206N 26:08.342E Date/Time: 1/07/14: 1600
Time Taken: 68nm (12hrs) Distance (this year): 416.5nm (72.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 13749.5nm   Weather: Northerlies avg. 25-35kts, G44kts;
Fastest Speed: 7.8kts in 18.5kt winds - under sail