Brushing Up on (Boating) History

Our whirlwind tour of the island & La Brea Pitch Lake.

Mr Lozza was appointed WJ3 Tour Rep.  After Caroni Swamp, we had hopes of organising a tour to another twitchers’ favourite, the Asa Wright Nature Centre, home to over 250 bird species.  It was not to be, with day tours running at costs into the hundreds, well beyond our budget.  Instead, we bravely hired a car for a couple of days.  Perhaps it was really the lady who owned the car who was brave!

This Vidiani map is busy enough without highlighting our route; towns are well marked.

For our first day, with the Cap’n at the wheel, Canadian Kevin riding shotgun, and Mr Lozza, doing the nav taking us on a circuitous, clock-wise route, off we set to see the vistas of Trinidad.  Advice to anyone planning this road trip, road conditions (traffic & maintenance – well, lack of it) meant we took longer than expected and thus had fewer stops.  It was also low (tourist) season, so not much was open; we should have packed a picnic lunch!  Mind you, there were not many places to take a break along the route either.

Starting early from Chaguaramas in the north west, we hit the main Churchill Roosevelt Highway taking us through Port of Spain and out to follow the foothills of the dark & moody, rainforest clad Northern Range.  The Mount St. Benedict Monastery was clearly visible, and although tempting to drive up to it to see the views (and I understand they also do a fantastic afternoon tea), it was working up to be another hot day.  So, bless the aircon instead and we carried on until the highway ran out, diverted via Valencia, continued through Sangre Grande, then met the east coast at Manzanilla.  Here we stopped at the Nariva River estuary to take some photos of a long stretch of windswept (bless those trade winds too!) coastline. 

Nariva River estuary

From Manzanilla, we followed Cocos Bay down to Nariva Swamp National Park.  It is quite clear that the swamp is fighting back given the many collapsed houses and one very buckled road rather worse for wear.  A ranger/tour guide at Nariva Swamp offered to take us for a boat tour; unfortunately, we had to decline; time was against us.  After following the coast road to Mayaro, we turned west and inland to Rio Claro.  Here at last we found a computer shop with the parts our Cap’n & Mr L. needed to repair a magic box that sits under the chart table.  (Want to know more? Check out the H460 site – just don’t hurry.  It’s snail-mail paced posting!).  From Rio Claro, a winding road took us passed picturesque small farms, villages and wild & fruitful gardens, all scattered with colourful temples and mosques.  At Princes Town, we eventually reconnected with a network of converging new and old highways on the west coast, confidant we could make it back to Chaguaramas before dark (i.e., dinner time).  Time then to zoom off to La Brea with hopes of catching a tour of the Pitch Lake.

Walking across the Pitch Lake led by our Guide

When you arrive at the Lake, you can’t help but wonder what on earth made you want to see this rather flat expanse, looking for all the world like discarded bitumen covered in puddles.  (First priority though, ignore the views and take a quick stop at the Museum bathrooms, the first available during our day!)  We were then greeted warmly by friendly staff and after signing on, followed our guide, Francis, off to the lake.  As we progressed over the lake’s surface, the ground moved & squeaked beneath us.  We realised this was no place to be on your own…  

Pitch, bubbling just under the top crust

Our guide was entertaining and very informed, so an hour quickly slipped by.  Importantly, the 100 acre lake is the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world, carefully mined to ensure its depths (250ft) are monitored and maintained.  Sir Walter Raleigh, advised of the lake’s existence by native Amerindians during his 1595 expedition, immediately recognised its value for sea-going vessels, successfully using the pitch to caulk his own timber ship.  Thankfully, Miss WJ3 is fiberglass and much easier to maintain.  Try Wiki if you are not able to visit the Pitch Lake in person and want to know more.  Just don’t mention “bitumen” because that is something different.  Don't say you were not warned, ok!  

Don't stand still for too long! 

Therapeutic waters too!

Hoping to avoid peak hour traffic, a group decision (beer before culsha group?) was made not to try and find the 85 ft tall statue of Hindu god Lord Hanuman and The Temple of Sea in Carapichaima.  Maybe next time then?  So, following the Southern Main Road, we managed a quick and tidy return back to Chaguaramas, completing our circumnavigation.  Just in time for Happy Hour.