Thursday, October 4, 2012

Morocco Top Ten: This is Fes

Fes, Morocco

So, let's begin our Morocco Top Ten....from where else, but the top!!

#1. Tanneries in Fes Medina
balak! balak!  Medina mule (carrying gas tanks) passing!
The Motleys loved Fes.  It is quintessential Morocco all wrapped up in ochre mud brick homes, sturdy medina walls and rooftops dusted with satellite dishes.  From a distance, you would swear that the city was empty but inside covered medieval souks, life goes on in a buzz as it has for thousands of years.  
Although now UNESCO World Heritage listed, its importance was recognised by French General Lyautey in 1913.  Subsequent renovation and restoration programs have retained this Imperial city’s “caravanserai” trading flavour, ensured artisans skills are not lost, and brought modernity in moderation.
Local Colour
Our hotel (Jnan Sbile) was perfectly located opposite beautiful walled gardens and near enough to Fes’ old medina (Fes el-Bali).  We were homesick for Delhi in an instant. As we only had one day, we had Aziz guide us through some of the reputed 9000 lanes and streets all filled with shops and goodies to buy. A 13th century rabbit warren of narrow lanes, sights that made the eyes water and the stomach turn were set side by side with aromatic spices, pungent preserved olives and lemons and sticky sweet desserts.  We spent the day being “balak”ed (look out!) by donkey drivers, hassled in carpet shops and flattered by textile merchants.  We held our noses in the tanneries, ate pigeon pastillas with relish in exotic restaurants, explored Medersa Bou Inania (1375), donated to wandering minstrels and still managed time to shop.   It’s the kind of place you really must get lost in…
Not an easy life in the Tanneries

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