Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Blue Streets of Chefchaouen

Restinga Smir, Morocco: 5-7 October 12

Itinerary Smir, Morocco.  Just be sure WJ3’s really out of the EU.  Taking time for a ride up to Chefchaouen to walk through blue streets of the walled Medina to the Kasbar….. 

Goodbye Gibraltar, let's hope for a good sail south

Second stop on our “hectic” sailing schedule was Restinga Smir, an interesting introduction to Moroccan marinas.  From there we hired an ancient Mercedes, driven by an equally ancient Moroccan, up into the Rif Mountains to the delightful village of Chefchaouen. 


Old Medina walls

Artfully balanced beneath steep, grey peaks, the blue & white old medina is just perfect for getting lost in (well, finding yourself walking in circles actually!).  Originally the village was established as a Berber stronghold (1471), from which attacks on the then Portuguese settlement of Ceuta, were launched. Christians were forbidden to enter and those who tried paid the price with their lives. 

 
I feel a whole new change to our renovations coming on...
Thankfully, times have changed.  Our accommodation, Dar Ech-Chaouen was perfect; more so as it had a pool for a luxurious afternoon swim – well deserved after wandering the heavily terraced medina.  Our Cap’n resumed duties as “bag boy” while GS & BCK peered into every little bolt-hole shop, admiring everything from hand-woven hemp clothing, silver jewellery, woollen blankets and brass teapots.  And it was only week 1 of BCK’s four week stay with us…
 
Blue on mesmerizing blue
We people watched in Plaza Uta el-Hammam over seriously sweet mint tea, commented on how laid back the merchants were in contrast to Marrakesh, then strolled the historic Kasbar and its quaint museum.  Here, GS was able to see some interesting examples of Berber embroidery, while the others strolled through the garden courtyard, marvelling at Moroccan plumbing.

Shops, shops and more shops (this one had dyes)
Later, we admired spetacular scenery as we wound our way back down to Smir.  Green valleys, full of life, contrasted with steep, stark peaks of the Rif Mountains.  Soon we reached Tetouan, a larger city at the mountain’s base and were astonished at the number of families who strolled tiny patches of green park, obviously a cherished Sunday evening ritual.  Even more paraded along the waterfront corniche at M’Diq, and quiet Marina Smir had come to life.  WJ3’s crew, tired from all that shopping, left late night partying to the locals and hit their bunks.  Relaxing Chefchaouen proved to be a perfect conclusion to the Motley Crew’s Moroccan sojourn. 
 
Come on girls!  We have to go.  There's no money left.

From: Gibraltar Lat/Long: 36:08. 963N  05:31.227W  Date/Time: 5/10/12: 1020
To: Restinga Smir, Morocco Lat/Long: 35:45.176N  05:20.542W  Date/Time: 5/10/12: 1440
Time Taken: 34.5nm (4.5hrs)  Distance (this year): 246nm (38.5hrs)
Distance Total (since 2008): 10483nm   Weather: Winds ESE 6-7kts; overcast    
Fastest Speed: A very calm intro to sailing for BCK; lots of dolphins frolicking about

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