Morocco Top Ten: Just a Little Effort Required

Aremd, Toubkal National Park, Morocco

#5.  Trek in the High Atlas

All “Top Ten’s” require some kind of physical activity.  Skiing in Morocco was suggested.  Sure!  It was only 42 degrees the day we went through Marrakesh.  Surfing sounded a better option but it was unseasonably windless and waveless in Essaouira, so that’s off the list too!  What did we do then?  Climb a jolly big yarma in the High Atlas, that’s what…

Heading up & down and up & down...

After leaving Ait Benhaddou, our little bus gamely tackled the giddy heights of Tizi n Tichka Pass (lovingly referred to as Chicken Tika at 2260m) before turning off into the Toubkal region to the town of Imlil (1740m).  Here we mounted our sturdy mules (or walked) 45 mins uphill to the Gite Imin Tzikert, happily situated on the banks of a seasonal river (snow melt, darlings!) at Aremd (1900m).  The mountains seemed to surround us, as did the muezzin’s evening call to prayer as it circulated round valley mosques.  

Our host, “Tagine” Hussain made us feel most welcome with mint tea served on the terrace in full sight of North Africa’s highest peak, Jebel Toubkal (4167m) only about a 10k stroll away.  The family then fed us grandly with olives, couscous, tagines, plenty of fresh bread and local fruit.  We needed our strength for the trip up into the mountains to the Sidi Chamharouch Shrine (2350m) next morning.

There was movement at the station.....whoa there boy!

Had GS realised that Guide Hammid was to walk us uphill for 2 hours, perhaps she would have eaten less for dinner.  Actually, we did well, ascending in the early morning cool.  Sidi (Saint) Chamharouch is considered the king of the djinns and many, many devout pilgrims make this trek to absolve sins, heal sickness, find good luck, fend off bad spirits or simply improve life's daily grind. 

We stopped to sip tea in the village near this tiny shrine, imaging ourselves to be the only foreigners in situ.  The shrine building is quiet simple but majestic in its surrounds.  The shrine itself within, is a large rock painted white.  It is thought to be Marabout (pre-Islamic) in origin and is famous for its animal sacrifices intended to drive off bad djinns.  Only Muslims are allowed over the stone bridge to visit the shrine.

Later, somewhat recovered, we made our way down to the Gite (lunch was waiting), hurrying passed crowds struggling uphill in the heat.  Refreshed we then made our way downhill to Imlil, passing a woman singing the praises of Allah at the top of her voice as she bumped upwards on her mule.  We just wanted to see Moulay and our mini bus – no more walking!! For a few hours at least.

Shrine of Sidi Chamharouch (the top for us)