Thursday, October 4, 2012

Morocco Top Ten: On the Sahara's Edge

#2. Overnight in the Sahara Desert

Somehow, trekking by camel in Saharan sand dunes has escaped becoming a tourist cliché.  Salam, our Berber man in blue, made us feel so welcome.  He wanted us to have a good time, experience the best of his home and share his enthusiasm for his Berber way of life. 
 
Enthusiastic Salam

We had started the day with a long drive across desolate country in the heat ending with a bit of off-roading to get to our stop at Auberge Salama, Merzouga. Our camel team was waiting.  After a brief respite, we were matched, human to camel and off into the sunset we marched. The Erg Chebbi is the edge of a frontier; its dramatic scenery belies its harsh and unforgiving nature.  Salam and his companions had learned, not how to tame the desert, but rather live with it – a symbiotic relationship with advantages for both. 
Erg Chebbi

A camp of traditional Berber tents had been set up in a small “oasis”; we had the choice of sleeping under the stars or in a tent.  Facilities were basic but Salam and his team managed to cook up a storm of tagines and couscous then offered to lull us to sleep with traditional drumming.  We just could not take our eyes off the magnificent starscape overhead.
No funny business now

Next morning everyone was up with the sunrise.  We watched a young goatherd tend his bleating flock and wondered what animal life had left tracks in the sand.  It was time to set off back to the Auberge for breakfast.  Our trusty camels were saddled up with only little junior making a fuss about having to carry the luggage (again)! Life is never fair to teenagers of any kind…. 
Austalian wanting to meet nice Berber camel

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