Erg Chebbi, Morocco
Somehow, trekking by camel in Saharan sand dunes has escaped
becoming a tourist cliché. Salam, our
Berber man in blue, made us feel so welcome.
He wanted us to have a good time, experience the best of his home and
share his enthusiasm for his Berber way of life.
Enthusiastic Salam |
We had started the day with a long drive across desolate
country in the heat ending with a bit of off-roading to get to our stop at
Auberge Salama, Merzouga. Our camel team was waiting. After a brief respite, we were matched, human
to camel and off into the sunset we marched. The Erg Chebbi is the edge of a
frontier; its dramatic scenery belies its harsh and unforgiving nature. Salam and his companions had learned, not how
to tame the desert, but rather live with it – a symbiotic relationship with
advantages for both.
Erg Chebbi |
A camp of traditional Berber tents had been set up in a
small “oasis”; we had the choice of sleeping under the stars or in a tent. Facilities were basic but Salam and his team
managed to cook up a storm of tagines and couscous then offered to lull us to
sleep with traditional drumming. We just
could not take our eyes off the magnificent starscape overhead.
No funny business now |
Next morning everyone was up with the sunrise. We watched a young goatherd tend his bleating
flock and wondered what animal life had left tracks in the sand. It was time to set off back to the Auberge
for breakfast. Our trusty camels were
saddled up with only little junior making a fuss about having to carry the
luggage (again)! Life is never fair to teenagers of any kind….
Australian wanting to meet nice Berber camel |
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