Romancing the Food

Fresh tuna or swordfish steaks cut to order

Syracuse, Sicily

We had arrived back to Syracuse in time for some seriously strong winds to blow through the area (forecast to 35 kts or more) and it was setting from the north west (Well hellooo, Mr Ponente!), the direction we were heading.  Needless to say, our stay in the marina was extended and we set about doing – yes, even more boat duties. 

One pleasurable activity however, was exploring the local fresh food markets.  Our Cap’n had been enviously watching nearby fishermen arrive with daily catches of squid, fish and huge swordfish.  Sicily’s central Med location clearly means it has a plentiful supply of fresh seafood.  It was available in abundance at the markets each day.  The Straits of Messina is the star location for swordfish and in a few days we would be negotiating this challenging waterway, with its heavy traffic, unruly currents and unique fishing boats.

The Italians clearly love their food and have a great respect for Fresh, so local daily markets are supported in droves; gawking tourists bumped out of the way so that locals can select the best at the best prices.  It is bad manners to touch the produce – the vendor will select for you.  The mushrooms I asked for were lovingly handled, potting mix still fresh on their stalks.  It was a moment to make any “wanna-be” foodie cry!  I felt honoured to be trusted additionally with rosy garlic bulbs and freshly dug potatoes. 

Further on, we could not help but buy some smoked mozzarella.  We were given strict instructions in how to refresh if after refrigeration and then serve it; chunks of cheese and a handful of sun-dried tomatoes, sprinkled with fresh parsley & mint, dressed with olive oil (only the best extra virgin) and a dash of lemon juice.  GS bought a pack and considered briefly whether she might live here.  Other tables bulged with oysters, ripe and tasty tomatoes, a variety of soft lettuce leaves (am I going on here?) and ready to eat fresh & tasty fruits.  Cherries and peaches are in season at the moment and are an absolute delight!

Our cooking and curry aromas wafted over the marina in the evenings, unfortunately attracting the wrong sort.  Ratus Romanus Gladitorii led a midnight raid breaking into the galley, making a b-line for the fresh bread – the only thing (or so we thought) not enclosed or boxed in plastic.  A few days later we discovered that he had also led a charge through the bowels of the boat to find the ground coffee, which apparently was not to his taste. (Maybe it wasn't Italian coffee?)  We’ve seen no sign of him since, so here’s hoping he’s retreated back to his fishing boat or portside residence for better quality feasting!

Despite the odd glitch (and not unreasonable demand for new galley equipment), you can see we are not starving…. Although I can just hear the Cap’n meditating, but I think he’s dreaming of legs of lamb, not reciting melodic mantras.  Hopefully he can wait the 6 hours it might take to cook one in our tiny, flagging, oven! 

Food Faking

Isola Vulcano, Aeolian Islands

We’ve all been there haven’t we?  Tourist food and travellers’ fast foods!  At least you mostly know what you are in for.  When you order the famous local “slow cooked” speciality and receive pan fried pork pieces, doused in carton mushroom cream sauce and garnished with a couple of hard dried figs, well, you know you’ve been had.  We’ve been lucky so far though and enjoyed quite a few encouraging local dining experiences.  

Are you sure you asked for pizza?

We thought we’d found the perfect spot to celebrate another of the Ancient Mariner’s (many) birthdays.  The setting was right – on the water’s edge, with a little dinghy dock.  Bruce took us to the door, almost.  The place was busy and the food looked good.  Little did we know we were in for a “Faulty Towers does Sicily” experience.

The harbour looked so inviting!

We were slow to be seated, hardly surprising given the restaurant’s popularity.  However, even then, things started to go awry.  Our table, in a prime spot overlooking the water, had apparently been reserved and we had to move.  The Cap’n grumbled.  A grovelling maître-d found us another table – down in the take-away pizza area but none-the-less with a water view.  And then we waited, and waited and waited.

Birthday Boy

To compensate for this neglect we were suddenly surrounded by imperious waiters, offered discounts on our meal (we hadn’t even ordered yet!) and proffered plates of appetisers as tempting “typical Sicilian starters” to keep the boiling Cap’n happy.  We weren’t offered a menu but rather told what we were to eat.  This charade had something to do with translating Italian to English (we think).  The Cap’n steamed.  Finally, out of the chaos, our order was settled and we asked for a glass of wine.  Then we waited. 

 
The appetiser and entrée arrived at the same time, plonked on the table. Eventually, our mains arrived, first separately, then finally together (after waiting) but when the Cap’n asked for another glass of wine – we waited again.  Giving up, we called for the bill.  It arrived with promptness not previously experienced.  We paid up and left.  They could wait for a tip….

We suspect a waiter is still running round tables trying to find who ordered that glass of wine.

And there's even a free beach here too!
But only the worst & hardest area to access...

Morocco Top Ten: Lights, Camera, Action...

Ait Benhaddou, Morocco

#3.  Learn to cook Moroccan foods (with Mr Action)

Our minibus ride took us through some spectacular desert scenery near the High Atlas Mountains.  Clearly, movie directors saw the potential of the area many years ago, so there is a thriving “Mollywood” industry in town. Once a French garrison town, Ouarzazate (war zazat) is now movie-land providing perfect scenery for movies set in far off countries such as Tibet, Egypt, ancient Rome and more. 

Ksar at Ait Benhaddou

Our hectic schedule allowed us time to visit to Handicapped Project Horizon, a most worthy charity; a herbalist to try out some of his youth giving lotions & potions and then the Atlas Film Studios.  (Sadly, the Cap’n was not “spotted” by a talent scout to appear as Gladiator’s  double.)  We missed walking the Taourirt Kasbah but managed to take in the imam’s evening call to pray echoing over Ait Benhaddou’s valley as we settled in to our dinner on Mr Action Houssain’s terrace. The Ksar at Ait Benhaddou is a stunning fortress castle in near perfect condition; Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator were both filmed here.

Photogenic Mr Action Houssain, film star & celebrity cook

Mr Action has indeed appeared in many films as an extra.  However for us, he became a most genial host (Maison d’Hote La Fibule) and a top cooking class demonstrator.   He later confessed that his sister and mother do most of the cooking.  Our couscous and tagines were delicious.  Though we were disappointed not to have Russell Crowe pop in to share some supper …  

See, we do so look alike...

Windjammer’s Hearty Chowder

Maine Seafoods

Maine has at least 9 varieties of clam, most interestingly named, are the quahogs.  Sadly, we didn't get to do a tasting platter, our eyes were clearly focused on lobsters; pots when sailing and steamed while you wait on shore (served with heart attack inducing quantities of melted butter).  We also took a liking for locally made, thick creamy chowder, just brimming with seafood too. Perfect in that cooler Down East weather.

In an effort to recreate chowder at home recently, I chose a recipe, adapted it to Aus seafoods, then cooked and served it with some fresh (out of the oven) wholemeal bread. Yum!  

Chowder is a Maine staple, along with lobster, blueberries and cranberries.  This hearty soup can be made with clams or indeed any seafood but we wanted to try smoked cod (or haddock), which is readily available here in Aus.  And yes, we really did try this local speciality in Bar Harbor, Mt Desert Island ME. I can see why sailors of old would have loved it!

3 med onions, thinly sliced 1 tbsp butter 2 cloves of garlic, minced 2-3 bacon rashers, diced 1 tbsp flour 4 med potatoes, diced 2 sticks celery, sliced

1 can evaporated milk 2 ½ cups stock 2 tsp dried parsley 1 tin (420g) creamed corn 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 kg smoked cod (or haddock)

In a soup pot, melt the butter and sauté the onions over a low heat until transparent.  Add the garlic and bacon pieces and fry 2-3 minutes more. Stir in the flour and cook a further 1-2 minutes. 

Add the potatoes and celery and stir through for a further 2-3 minutes.  Add stock, parsley, Dijon mustard and Worcestershire sauce.  Bring to the boil and simmer until the potatoes are tender. 

Add the corn and fish (in one large piece to break up when serving) and simmer for a further 15 minutes.  Add the milk and heat through.  Season to taste (it’s quite a salty dish).  Serves a crew of 4-6 and is hearty enough for a main meal.

(All I have to do now is sneak my bread machine on board while the Cap’n isn’t looking!  Making bread by hand - I don’t think so!!!)

Of course, if you're rockin' around on the briny, miles and miles from the nearest grocer, you can always do an "empty the fridge" cheat with a tin or two!