Romancing the Food

Fresh tuna or swordfish steaks cut to order

Syracuse, Sicily

We had arrived back to Syracuse in time for some seriously strong winds to blow through the area (forecast to 35 kts or more) and it was setting from the north west (Well hellooo, Mr Ponente!), the direction we were heading.  Needless to say, our stay in the marina was extended and we set about doing – yes, even more boat duties. 

One pleasurable activity however, was exploring the local fresh food markets.  Our Cap’n had been enviously watching nearby fishermen arrive with daily catches of squid, fish and huge swordfish.  Sicily’s central Med location clearly means it has a plentiful supply of fresh seafood.  It was available in abundance at the markets each day.  The Straits of Messina is the star location for swordfish and in a few days we would be negotiating this challenging waterway, with its heavy traffic, unruly currents and unique fishing boats.

The Italians clearly love their food and have a great respect for Fresh, so local daily markets are supported in droves; gawking tourists bumped out of the way so that locals can select the best at the best prices.  It is bad manners to touch the produce – the vendor will select for you.  The mushrooms I asked for were lovingly handled, potting mix still fresh on their stalks.  It was a moment to make any “wanna-be” foodie cry!  I felt honoured to be trusted additionally with rosy garlic bulbs and freshly dug potatoes. 

Further on, we could not help but buy some smoked mozzarella.  We were given strict instructions in how to refresh if after refrigeration and then serve it; chunks of cheese and a handful of sun-dried tomatoes, sprinkled with fresh parsley & mint, dressed with olive oil (only the best extra virgin) and a dash of lemon juice.  GS bought a pack and considered briefly whether she might live here.  Other tables bulged with oysters, ripe and tasty tomatoes, a variety of soft lettuce leaves (am I going on here?) and ready to eat fresh & tasty fruits.  Cherries and peaches are in season at the moment and are an absolute delight!

Our cooking and curry aromas wafted over the marina in the evenings, unfortunately attracting the wrong sort.  Ratus Romanus Gladitorii led a midnight raid breaking into the galley, making a b-line for the fresh bread – the only thing (or so we thought) not enclosed or boxed in plastic.  A few days later we discovered that he had also led a charge through the bowels of the boat to find the ground coffee, which apparently was not to his taste. (Maybe it wasn't Italian coffee?)  We’ve seen no sign of him since, so here’s hoping he’s retreated back to his fishing boat or portside residence for better quality feasting!

Despite the odd glitch (and not unreasonable demand for new galley equipment), you can see we are not starving…. Although I can just hear the Cap’n meditating, but I think he’s dreaming of legs of lamb, not reciting melodic mantras.  Hopefully he can wait the 6 hours it might take to cook one in our tiny, flagging, oven! 

Bella Domenica

Syracuse, Sicily

Do Not As I Do

Syracuse Duomo (Cathedral) in full blown Baroque frenzy

Entering a strange harbour at night is not fun.  Despite the best made plans, we seem to do it, time after time.  Entering Syracuse, a port off an exceptionally busy shipping corridor on Sicily’s east coast, had its moments – especially with a gazillion flashing coloured lights, unlit fishing boats and rocky outcrops to be negotiated.  Still, we did it and managed to set the hook at the outer limit of the anchoring field for a very early morning arrival.  Even with discos still open for late stayers blaring across the harbour, we both crashed.  All this day hopping across Greece's pleasant anchorages has made us soft...

Grand Harbour Town Quay, Ortygia Island (the Old Town)

The splendour of Syracuse’s old city, Ortygia, greeted us in the morning sun.  Swathes of yellow sandstone mansions, miles of Baroque features and everything bursting with that marvellous (Italian) sense of the good life – we’d certainly changed gears.  Well, given that it was Sunday too and locals were heading out in droves on water craft of all shapes and sizes.  Destination - their favourite anchoring spot off the old fort.  Ah yes, it reminded us of Quarantine Beach (Sydney Harbour’s favourite boatie anchoring and picnic spot) all over again.  Weren’t those the days, full of youthful vim & vigour?

Anchoring in the shade of the Fort on Sunday

It was time to try out the land legs again, just to see if they still worked.  After a refreshing cold coffee granita sipped in shade off Grand Harbour town quay, we mustered shanks ponies and headed off for a walk that promised to be challenging in the heat of the day but in shaded narrow cobbled streets proved quite pleasant.  We didn’t walk far or for hours but seemed to cover most of old Syracuse’s impressive legacy. 

 

Ortygia was settled by Corinthians (yes, those Greeks again) in 734 BC.  The bay where we sit, anchored in peace and comfort, was the site of a huge maritime challenge.  The Syracusean fleet orchestrated a splendid victory against the Athenians and the city established itself to become the most powerful and largest fortified Greek city in the then known world.  Sicily’s history is generally something of a Heinz variety with all sorts leaving their mark in some way or the other on the island.  It’s complicated and quite fascinating, making good reading so we’ll leave you to it… 

Fountain in Piazza Archimedes 
Yes, Archimedes was one of Syracuse's famous residents.

Meanwhile, enjoy these photos.  We’d love to tell you about them but finding tourist information was challenging indeed and clearly not something the local Tourist Bureau was used to.  We’re also having difficulties adapting to long lunch breaks (and therefore shop closing times – strictly enforced!) and rather late 10pm dinners.  And we’ve learnt the hard way to ask the price (for everything) before you agree to buy – timid  tourist and buyer beware! 

Casstello Maniace & another view of the Sunday crowd