Bella Domenica

Syracuse, Sicily

Do Not As I Do

Syracuse Duomo (Cathedral) in full blown Baroque frenzy

Entering a strange harbour at night is not fun.  Despite the best made plans, we seem to do it, time after time.  Entering Syracuse, a port off an exceptionally busy shipping corridor on Sicily’s east coast, had its moments – especially with a gazillion flashing coloured lights, unlit fishing boats and rocky outcrops to be negotiated.  Still, we did it and managed to set the hook at the outer limit of the anchoring field for a very early morning arrival.  Even with discos still open for late stayers blaring across the harbour, we both crashed.  All this day hopping across Greece's pleasant anchorages has made us soft...

Grand Harbour Town Quay, Ortygia Island (the Old Town)

The splendour of Syracuse’s old city, Ortygia, greeted us in the morning sun.  Swathes of yellow sandstone mansions, miles of Baroque features and everything bursting with that marvellous (Italian) sense of the good life – we’d certainly changed gears.  Well, given that it was Sunday too and locals were heading out in droves on water craft of all shapes and sizes.  Destination - their favourite anchoring spot off the old fort.  Ah yes, it reminded us of Quarantine Beach (Sydney Harbour’s favourite boatie anchoring and picnic spot) all over again.  Weren’t those the days, full of youthful vim & vigour?

Anchoring in the shade of the Fort on Sunday

It was time to try out the land legs again, just to see if they still worked.  After a refreshing cold coffee granita sipped in shade off Grand Harbour town quay, we mustered shanks ponies and headed off for a walk that promised to be challenging in the heat of the day but in shaded narrow cobbled streets proved quite pleasant.  We didn’t walk far or for hours but seemed to cover most of old Syracuse’s impressive legacy. 

 

Ortygia was settled by Corinthians (yes, those Greeks again) in 734 BC.  The bay where we sit, anchored in peace and comfort, was the site of a huge maritime challenge.  The Syracusean fleet orchestrated a splendid victory against the Athenians and the city established itself to become the most powerful and largest fortified Greek city in the then known world.  Sicily’s history is generally something of a Heinz variety with all sorts leaving their mark in some way or the other on the island.  It’s complicated and quite fascinating, making good reading so we’ll leave you to it… 

Fountain in Piazza Archimedes 
Yes, Archimedes was one of Syracuse's famous residents.

Meanwhile, enjoy these photos.  We’d love to tell you about them but finding tourist information was challenging indeed and clearly not something the local Tourist Bureau was used to.  We’re also having difficulties adapting to long lunch breaks (and therefore shop closing times – strictly enforced!) and rather late 10pm dinners.  And we’ve learnt the hard way to ask the price (for everything) before you agree to buy – timid  tourist and buyer beware! 

Casstello Maniace & another view of the Sunday crowd