Riding the Rails

Noto, Sicily

Given recent and exhausting dealings with public transport in Sicily, we mooted sightseeing options.  Closest was Noto, a hilltop village noted for its flamboyant Baroque architecture.   Trains left Syracuse; we could only hope they returned.

After a brisk walk to the station in the early morning heat, it was a welcome relief to note that a. there actually was a train; b. it was air-conditioned, and c. it almost left on time.  Our stop at Noto was at the bottom of the hill, needing a not-so-energetic but 15 minute climb.  Buses do not meet trains and not many travellers use trains.  It’s complicated and very Sicilian, or so it would seem.

Minor Basilica of St. Nicholas of Myra, the Noto Cathedral

Noto is a UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for its Baroque constructions.  An earlier town was destroyed in an earthquake (1693).  Architects of the time were keen to leave their mark and, I presume, families had sufficient means to accommodate this rebuilding.  Consequently, within a small and easily walkable area, it is possible to see palaces, convents, churches and mansions alike, all covered in exuberant features that typify the Baroque style.

We arrived at the beautifully shaded Viale Marconi and in front of the Porta Ferdinandea, decided a coffee granita was the perfect way to start our tour.  From there, we followed our guide book’s walking tour, making our way through clearly planned streets, lots of stairs and ultimately into Palazzo Nicolaci Villadorata.  This was one of the few interiors open (other than churches), so we took a stroll through its lavish rooms, wondering if the chandeliers came from Venice….  

Back down to the very deserted train station, we sat on the rim of a crumbling fountain (no seating for passengers) in a garden full of weeds.  Once this would have been quite lovely – not anymore!  Despite our concerns, the train arrived on time.  We were still the only ones about, the Cap’n concerned we were going to be mugged.  No gunslingers from the OK Corral showed up; just a quick ride back to Syracuse, our travelling aspirations in Sicily more than fulfilled.