An Arrow's Flight

Day 4 – Going for Gozo

The Inland Sea, Gozo

We knew this was going to be a long, public transport day but we hoped to be able to cover a few of Gozo’s best sites.  Our journey at least had been eventful with the bus taking us up close again to Mosta Cathedral, a couple of very popular resort beaches, deserted craft villages and a picturesque crenelated Red Tower sitting high on Marfa Ridge.  The ferry took us past tiny Comino Island; it was easy to spot the Blue Lagoon’s brilliant turquoise waters on this sunny day. 

Perhaps just a little bigger than Dangar's ferry

Bustling Mgarr

We caught the bus at Gozo’s ferry port, Mgarr, and then changed at Victoria for Dwejra, famous for its panoramic, soaring cliffs and wave-like rock formation.  We walked out over fossil-strewn rocks to take photos of Fungus Rock and the Azure Window then headed down a dusty track to the Inland Sea, an almost enclosed lagoon, with a cave like opening and room enough to squeeze a small armada of tourist boats out to sea for stunning views along the coast.  The Maltese love their holiday huts and manage to squeeze large families into spaces smaller than a garage for summer fun.  The Inland Sea was no exception and hut occupants happily shared their tiny plot with cafes, ice-cream trucks, boat tour operators, divers, swimmers and loads of visitors in this less than private setting.  All in the sweltering sun.

Azure Window

Back in Victoria, we headed for the imposing and recently made-over Gran Castella.  Although smaller than Mdina’s commanding fortified city, its buildings, including the cathedral (1716) was no less impressive. 

We did though visit the Folklore Museum.  Set over 3 terraced noble’s homes, the museum contained items from everyday rural use and featured re-created rooms.  The houses themselves were fascinating labyrinths, no doubt designed to provide easy escape from enemies. 

Gozo was regularly and brutally attacked; once all of its people (6000) were taken into slavery.  Times were so tough that until 1673 laws enforced all citizens to stay at night within the Citadella’s walls.  Interestingly, we were also told that street lengths were only as long as an arrow’s flight.

A beautifully restored Gran Castella

Inner Courtyard, Noble's House

We made our way through the Norman ruins (12^th c & yet to be restored), to find the Old Prison.  A friendly staffer told us what to look for around the rooms and gave us a potted history of its activities.  Even the most famous of the Grand Masters spent a little time here.  I wonder if he was one of the many occupants who left their mark engraved into the soft stone walls in these tiny, claustrophobic cells?  We would have been counting the days to freedom too!

It was bang on 3.30pm when we left Victoria, Gozo and I suspect we managed to find the all stops bus back to the ferry port.  Four slow Sunday hours later, we arrived at our hotel, with just time to catch our breath before dinner, yet again down at the Kalkara dock.  The European Cup Final was on and luckily, we had reserved a table.  Go, Portugal!!! 

The early, early start the next morning for the first ferry back to Sicily was a rude shock but at least we found seats at the front for a last gaze over Valletta.  Needless to say, our feet touched the dock in Pozzallo at nine, just 5 minutes after the train had left for Syracuse.  The next direct bus wasn’t until 3pm & the train at 3.40 – all expertly coordinated no doubt, to leave before the arrival of the next ferry.  For sanity’s sake, we forked out yet another €80 of our rapidly diminishing travel funds for a taxi.  God is most certainly on the side of the Sicilians....  Either that, or they learned their expert bargaining skills from Egyptians traders many years ago.